New Genesis type atomizer by DID!

[Darryll]

Stunning pics! What tanks are those? Are they the clear tanks or are they glass? Where did you get them from?

They are the clear Kir Fanis tanks from e-vape.gr

 

[outadadark]

Okay... I went back and tried to find the instructions posted by the Genisis Masters, Raidy (German Genisis Inventor) and Pailpoe (French Genisis Developer), to find out how they suggest our setups be constructed. I won't post the thread URLs in Jim's area, but a Google search on their names will provide the addresses for those interested.

Both advise that the wick be physically isolated from the atty body by a high temperate resistant material (I found PTFE tubing was ideal.... see below) and that oxidisation of the wick is the key.

Badly isolated wick from coil, cause headache, heartache and blood to boil..... OutaDaDark 2012

So, I ordered this PTFE tube from an Aircraft supply company in Scotland, OD 3mm, ID 2mm and cut a few 2cm lengths. The diameter of the wick hole in the DID is around 3.5mm, so I got a 3mm bolt (M3), held the tip of the tube in some long nose pliers and screwed (forced!! the M3 into the 2mm tube. This widened the PTFE to a snug fit in my DID.



How you oxidise your wick and wrap your coil is now a very personal choice. The 'one size fits all' methods seems to have generated more debate than seems necessary, but whatever works for you, go for it!!

I have since gone back and fitted the tubing to all my Genesis attys (and I have a few and I must say I was more than a litte surprised at the difference in coil resistance measurements taken after the modification compared to before.... and I considered myself relatively experienced in this modern art of coil building... So it seems you CAN teach an old dog new tricks......

Hey.... not so much of the 'old' please.....

 

[Mr.Mann]

Okay... I went back and tried to find the instructions posted by the Genisis Masters, Raidy (German Genisis Inventor) and Pailpoe (French Genisis Developer), to find out how they suggest our setups be constructed. I won't post the thread URLs in Jim's area, but a Google search on their names will provide the addresses for those interested.

Both advise that the wick be physically isolated from the atty body by a high temperate resistant material (I found PTFE tubing was ideal.... see below) and that oxidisation of the wick is the key.

Badly isolated wick from coil, cause headache, heartache and blood to boil..... OutaDaDark 2012

So, I ordered this PTFE tube from an Aircraft supply company in Scotland, OD 3mm, ID 2mm and cut a few 2cm lengths. The diameter of the wick hole in the DID is around 3.5mm, so I got a 3mm bolt (M3), held the tip of the tube in some long nose pliers and screwed (forced!! the M3 into the 2mm tube. This widened the PTFE to a snug fit in my DID.

View attachment 119162 View attachment 119163

How you oxidise your wick and wrap your coil is now a very personal choice. The 'one size fits all' methods seems to have generated more debate than seems necessary, but whatever works for you, go for it!!

I have since gone back and fitted the tubing to all my Genesis attys (and I have a few and I must say I was more than a litte surprised at the difference in coil resistance measurements taken after the modification compared to before.... and I considered myself relatively experienced in this modern art of coil building... So it seems you CAN teach an old dog new tricks......

Hey.... not so much of the 'old' please.....

Can you explain to a novice what the difference in coil measurements were/are, how it performs better, what (if anything) were you trying to rectify? Or, was it a solution to non-existent problem? How does adding the PTFE enhance the experience of the DID?

 

[ricklynchcore]

I think during the course of vaping the coil wrap around the post may become unraveled having the nuts flat side above and below the wrap which may be your problem

try having one brass nut flat side up(mine is at the bottom of my coil wrap around the post) and one nut concave pointing down(mine is on top of my coil wrap around the post)

also make sure your wrap going to the silver ground nut is on the outer part of your wick and not the inner because it might be making contact with your bottom brass nut on the post

Most appear to wrap to silver nut from the inner, not outer, at least in Jim's initial vid. Minimize the length. Thoughts anyone?

Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2

 

[outadadark]

can you explain to a novice what the difference in coil measurements were/are, how it performs better, what (if anything) were you trying to rectify? or, was it a solution to non-existent problem? How does adding the ptfe enhance the experience of the did?

l...o....l....

 

[Mr.Mann]

Why the sarcasm? That is so unnecessary! Also, if you are experienced and just found this out, I was merely asking how it has improved your experience. If you had gotten a great vape prior to its inclusion, I was asking simply if you did it because there was a problem. I am holding back majorly because I respect this thread and posters.

Will somebody please tell me why this person is getting like this? What did I do to deserve this? I think it is always better to ask someone to clarify their words before calling names. I will refrain from clogging this thread with silliness and name calling.

 

[outadadark]

Why the sarcasm? That is so unnecessary!

Or, was it a solution to non-existent problem?.....

 

[Mr.Mann]

So, I have been doing some research on the previous posters suggestion of using PTFE. I wonder how this would change the experience? Are there any other veterans here that have done this?

 

[Cloud Wizard]

Can you explain to a novice what the difference in coil measurements were/are, how it performs better, what (if anything) were you trying to rectify? Or, was it a solution to non-existent problem? How does adding the PTFE enhance the experience of the DID?

Theory is to completely isolate the wick will reduce the potential for shorts as the current has to enter/exit through the coil (instead of in this case the grounded wall of the tank also why it helps to lift the wick off the bottom). If the current only goes in/out by the coil, any hotspots are easier to fix and any chance of shorting else where is eliminated. Still need to properly oxidize your wick to eliminate coil shorts/hot spots. On your question about resistance changes, I'd expect the same behavior as any other short, a short reduces resistance (bypasses the resistance provided in the wire coil).

 

[Mr.Mann]

Theory is to completely isolate the wick will reduce the potential for shorts as the current has to enter/exit through the coil (instead of in this case the grounded wall of the tank also why it helps to lift the wick off the bottom). If the current only goes in/out by the coil, any hotspots are easier to fix and any chance of shorting else where is eliminated. Still need to properly oxidize your wick to eliminate coil shorts/hot spots. On your question about resistance changes, I'd expect the same behavior as any other short, a short reduces resistance (bypasses the resistance provided in the wire coil).

Thanks for this. I really appreciate your insight--plus, it actually clears up a lot of other questions.

edit**for the post right below,

Cloud Wiazrd I will find that post.

 

[Cloud Wizard]

@Mr.Mann: Sorry, I don't remember which post# for your index, but there is a method of creating a coil without having the wick installed. It results in a stand-alone coil that you can baseline the resistance (e.g. with no wick installed you get the cleanest resistance test on the coil). Then, any drop in resistance once the wick is installed tells you that there is a short.

I found objects that fit right by experimentation. I use a pick (just a tad smaller than the wick hole) to pre-wrap the coil and install (literally stick the pick in the wick hole so the coil lines up perfectly and the remove pick before checking resistance). I use a nail that's smaller than the pick to roll the wick and than keep tightening it (finger rolling) till it fits into the installed wick by twirling between fingers.

This method works pretty well, but you still have to deal with any hot spots/shorts after installation.

 

[Australis]

View attachment 119163

Hey Dark, did you add the Phillips head screws?
Guess ill hunt the hardware shop for some that fit in case i lose the hex head screws.

 

[dspin]

Edited and removed my post defending MR Mann per request of moderator.

 

[classwife]

Stop the disruption in here please...this is a suppliers sales thread.


There is some cleaning to do in here...it makes it too difficult to follow the topic

 

[outadadark]

Both advise that the wick be physically isolated from the atty body by a high temperate resistant material (I found PTFE tubing was ideal.... see below) and that oxidisation of the wick is the key.......


Or, was it a solution to non-existent problem?..... is not a valid question from a novice user (over 2,200 posts) about a perfectly innocent post, but who picks up on that?

and dspin, PM me if you want to discuss this further.

 

[Cloud Wizard]

@Mr.Mann: I found this link to what I believe is the original thread (not on ECF) for the "Petar K" method
www.vaporwall.com • View topic - Unoxidised "genisis" SetUp (how to)

I do still go through the oxidation steps 3xheat/quench water, 3xburn/juice (might not be necessary, but works for me)

 

[Mr.Mann]

Thanks. Have you tried this other way? I think I will initially go with the oxidation method irrespective of whether or not some feel it is necessary.

 

[ChuckBell]

Stop the disruption in here please...this is a suppliers sales thread.


There is some cleaning to do in here...it makes it too difficult to follow the topic

There are always some know-it-alls on a forum that just don't want to help people and discuss the product but have to act like they are holier than thou about everything

 

[ricklynchcore]

Now that I have rebuilt my DID countless times, not because of problems, just because I am a compulsive tinkerer, trying out all the various methods and techniques discovered here. I have somewhat settled down as follows:

Wick construction is the end all. I Jack Frost trying to achieve the gray look to the mesh. I use two pieces wick, one larger than the other. The large is rolled around the Allen key, the small around a paper clip, insert small into large. I examine, and re-heat slightly, and quench to firm the wick. I trim off any mesh hairs I see. I add cig paper damp with juice to area to be coiled.

Coiling: Because my wick is fat, I use only 3 wraps of annealed kanthal 32. This gives me 3 to 3.2 ohms eveytime. I wrap clockwise to top, making sure bottom lead wire approaches ground from inside between coil and nut. Top connection attaches from inside directly to pole with 1 counterclockwise wrap. Bottom nut concave up, top nut concave down. Use a pin to hold bottom nut, and screw top nut very firmly, until it is flush with pole.

Adjust any shorts with pin. Vape away. Just seems to give me very good vape and TH. I can always tell if short develops, through movement, by the harshness of vape. I get out pin and adjust. I would say every couple of days harshness develops, a 20 second adjustment, I'm good to go. But I am moving my DID about all the time. Device is now developing remarkable stability. What I love is the ability to tweak to my own preference. For example, I always screw in tank fill hole nut, because I prefer my juice muted. Others have different tastes. The DID makes choices possible.



Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2

 

[ChuckBell]

Now that I have rebuilt my DID countless times, not because of problems, just because I am a compulsive tinkerer, trying out all the various methods and techniques discovered here. I have somewhat settled down as follows:

Wick construction is the end all. I Jack Frost trying to achieve the gray look to the mesh. I use two pieces wick, one larger than the other. The large is rolled around the Allen key, the small around a paper clip, insert small into large. I examine, and re-heat slightly, and quench to firm the wick. I trim off any mesh hairs I see. I add cig paper damp with juice to area to be coiled.

Coiling: Because my wick is fat, I use only 3 wraps of annealed kanthal 32. This gives me 3 to 3.2 ohms eveytime. I wrap clockwise to top, making sure bottom lead wire approaches ground from inside between coil and nut. Top connection attaches from inside directly to pole with 1 counterclockwise wrap. Bottom nut concave up, top nut concave down. Use a pin to hold bottom nut, and screw top nut very firmly, until it is flush with pole.

Adjust any shorts with pin. Vape away. Just seems to give me very good vape and TH. I can always tell if short develops, through movement, by the harshness of vape. I get out pin and adjust. I would say every couple of days harshness develops, a 20 second adjustment, I'm good to go. But I am moving my DID about all the time. Device is now developing remarkable stability. What I love is the ability to tweak to my own preference. For example, I always screw in tank fill hole nut, because I prefer my juice muted. Others have different tastes. The DID makes choices possible.



Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2

I try and help people while helping myself. The best advise I could give someone is buy plenty of SS mesh and coil and watch videos on YouTube and read posts and look at pictures of how others got their atomizer working and eventually with being patient you'll get your gizmo working.