New Joyetech 20watt eGrip
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I think you are right,
I had just cleaned them. & it seems I was missing the seals off both. or so I was 'told' by my DH
He poked that stuff back in refitted the seals & panic over, all is good
Thanks for your help
I had just cleaned them. & it seems I was missing the seals off both. or so I was 'told' by my DH
He poked that stuff back in refitted the seals & panic over, all is good
Thanks for your help
There were several people who suggested I use the Aspire BVC coils when I was complaining about the RBA leaking. While still nothing can compare to the flavor of the RBA. The Aspire heads come close. Much better than the egrip heads. And no leaking. Additionally they are at least 6 bucks cheaper per 5pack. The only downside is that my base does not screw in completely. It screws in enough to work, not leak. It just remains slightly proud of the bottom of the egrip making it less stable when sitting it upright on a table. I wont go back to the egrip heads
I started vaping last October and got an egrip early on. First it was the USB port issue. The device was swapped out. I got the RBA and didn't understand how the wicking protects against leaks until recently. I work at the wick until I can see cotton against the feed holes from the outside. So far no leaks. The way I understand it, when the only juice in the atomizer is in the cotton the wick will cling to the side of the atomizer tube. If it's covering the liquid holes it won't let in more liquid than the wick can absorb. If liquid pools (gurgling) then the wick may float away from the side of the tank and allow it to flood and finally leak.
I wanted a tighter draw than the RTA is set for and found a way to get that. Wedge some aluinum foil in the air intake hole the right way and it won't fall out and will give the kind of draw similar to a Nautilus mini.
I believe and hope the egrip designer is working on egrip v2.
I haven't read the entire thread so apologies if I've repeated anything.
I wanted a tighter draw than the RTA is set for and found a way to get that. Wedge some aluinum foil in the air intake hole the right way and it won't fall out and will give the kind of draw similar to a Nautilus mini.
I believe and hope the egrip designer is working on egrip v2.
I haven't read the entire thread so apologies if I've repeated anything.
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Not sure if you're already doing this but to solve your base not fitting flush issue take the pin out of the regular eGrip coil and replace the one in the BVC coil. It should sit flush then. There's pictures of it in this thread.
Well, it still doesn't sit flush with that method. Close.
With the silicone cover it is fine.. Flush with the cover.
Or you can grind one Aspire BVC center pin down so everything fits, then keep using that shorter pin in all the new Aspire coils you fit. Don't do what I did, got close then went too far. It will sand down very quickly on 400 sandpaper wet and dry.
what he said. It's close enough not to have to mess with all the other stuff. And significantly better than the stock coils
Has anyone lost the gasket on the door for their e-grip. I have lost mine and cant get any response from joy e tech to get a replacement. Does anyone here know where to find them or have a fix for this?
both of mine came with extras.. I hear Cignot is great about having replacement parts!
What's the aspire coils like in this with higher vg juices?
Have a few spare aspire coils lying around.
Does it matter if they the old coils or the bvc ones?
And main question, nautilus coils or the other aspire coils?
Sent from my Passport using Tapatalk
Have a few spare aspire coils lying around.
Does it matter if they the old coils or the bvc ones?
And main question, nautilus coils or the other aspire coils?
Sent from my Passport using Tapatalk
Not the Nautilus coils. These are the Aspire coils that'll work in the eGrip, but you need to swap out the bottom pin for one from an eGrip coil or cut down an Aspire pin to fit.
BVC or older BDC would fit, but the consensus seems to be that the BVC are way better than the BDC were.
BVC or older BDC would fit, but the consensus seems to be that the BVC are way better than the BDC were.
Got ya. Cool they are the ones i have anyway. Does it matter bvc etc? As you can get bvc now tooNot the Nautilus coils. These are the Aspire coils that'll work in the eGrip, but you need to swap out the bottom pin for one from an eGrip coil or cut down an Aspire pin to fit.
BVC or older BDC would fit, but the consensus seems to be that the BVC are way better than the BDC were.
Sent from my Passport using Tapatalk
I bought two of them (from different vendors; I didn't realize the wood one was an option when I ordered the first one), and I had issues with both. The first one had broken plastic by where the atomizer base screws inside. There were tiny little bits of white plastic in the threads and probably falling into the tank. On the second one, the inside is fine, but the atomizer base won't screw in flush with the bottom of the device. I think this is what is causing my gurgling? At first I was willing to deal with it, since it just made it wobbly when I set it down, but the gurgling.....no. I tried taking the coil out and reseating it, and it didn't help. I'm hoping the vendor will send me another atomizer base, and it will be the end of my troubles with the second device. The first is in the mail back to the be vendor, but I'm not too hopeful. They told me it's normal even after I sent pics.
Pin vise. Next to an iStick w/Nauty mini for size
Thought this was the type of pin vise used to hold RBA when drilling it?
Lee Valley Tools - Important Announcement
That's the way my base looked the first time I screwed it in. It felt tight but it wasn't all the way in. Mine tightened down flush, it just took more pressure than I expected. It was a dead stop when it got there. Counter-intuitive for those of us careful to not overdue things.
The white is not plastic, nor is it broken. It's silicone to seal off the electronics. Tighten the base down a little harder as was recommended. All will be fine!
Read all 202 pages of this thread and the other Egrip thread here. First thanks to ALL for your contributions and tips. Mine should arrive tomorrow along with ALL the accessories, RBA, 510 adapter, etc. I've been vaping since the days of polyfill cartos, but never owned an RBA, so I plan to play with that in my spare time.
However, I'm intrigued with the idea of using some of my 1.6 ohm Aspire BVC Atomizers (especially now that they are 100% cotton), and filing down the bottom connector so the bottom plug sits flush when screwed back in. So my question, which can probably only be answered by those that have taken the Egrip apart and have seen the connection (air path tube) that mates with the top of the stock CS atomizers. My slight concern is the top of the Aspire atties is quite different, flat with a seal, as opposed to the design of the stock CS Egrip atties. If this area of connection does not make a good seal, it seems like a potential area for juice and or air leaks. It would be hard to know unless you had x-ray vision or had the unit apart to see how well they mate. Far back in this thread someone really took it to the extreme with a total rebuild using parts from each attie, and while I respect the time and work this person did, I would never have the time or patience to attempt that rebuild, filing down an Aspire connector tip is about as far as I'm willing to go, besides the fun part of later playing with the RBA. It would be nice to have the Aspire BVC attie option, as these are proven winners to me, and of course a lot less expensive then the stock CS ones, even today they seem to average approx. $17 per 5 pack, that's almost twice what I pay for the Aspire BVC's. Thanks again for all the contributions to this thread, hope I get a non-leaker!
EDIT: wanted to add the link to the attie rebuild, as it is not in this thread. Hats off for this amount of effort!
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/atomizer-mods/646930-egrip-cs-atomizer-mod.html
However, I'm intrigued with the idea of using some of my 1.6 ohm Aspire BVC Atomizers (especially now that they are 100% cotton), and filing down the bottom connector so the bottom plug sits flush when screwed back in. So my question, which can probably only be answered by those that have taken the Egrip apart and have seen the connection (air path tube) that mates with the top of the stock CS atomizers. My slight concern is the top of the Aspire atties is quite different, flat with a seal, as opposed to the design of the stock CS Egrip atties. If this area of connection does not make a good seal, it seems like a potential area for juice and or air leaks. It would be hard to know unless you had x-ray vision or had the unit apart to see how well they mate. Far back in this thread someone really took it to the extreme with a total rebuild using parts from each attie, and while I respect the time and work this person did, I would never have the time or patience to attempt that rebuild, filing down an Aspire connector tip is about as far as I'm willing to go, besides the fun part of later playing with the RBA. It would be nice to have the Aspire BVC attie option, as these are proven winners to me, and of course a lot less expensive then the stock CS ones, even today they seem to average approx. $17 per 5 pack, that's almost twice what I pay for the Aspire BVC's. Thanks again for all the contributions to this thread, hope I get a non-leaker!
EDIT: wanted to add the link to the attie rebuild, as it is not in this thread. Hats off for this amount of effort!
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/atomizer-mods/646930-egrip-cs-atomizer-mod.html
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