New Joyetech 20watt eGrip
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Good news....Myvaporstore emailed me a shipping label for replacement! Just gotta box it up (and put the original CS base back in) and hopefully I'll see a new one soon!
Cool cello. Didn't think you needed a rebuttal. And you're right, you can turn a formed wire. The slogan's more of an appeal to those still hand winding and there's a whole bunch more of them out there every day. Lot of youtube videos to overcome.
And if you are getting a better vape from a micro or tension you know why I feel the way I do.
Just have a tendency to speak to the bleachers, seize the moment so to speak. And I know there's a lot here just gettin' started. Wanna make sure we all get some of that happy dance. Never would've made it myself if I'd had to on factory coils or hand winding. Knew a lot of new vapers were going to need faster results than compression and torching. Too burdensome for many. Using strain def speeds that up and the vape more predictable when work or pref's make rebuilding tough. We need as many on board as possible to stave off being the pigeonholed minority again. Trying to make it easier for those that might most benefit from it.
Well that's my story and I'm stickin' to it C.
You take care and good luck.
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Breaking the seal, so to speak.
After opening the door to fill, both holes will have some juice in them, so giving a little squeeze/suck clears the holes of juice (just need to do one) so it will allow air to flow out as you're filling....that's all it does, and yes there are other ways, but IF you already have the a plastic juice bottle with the little pointed tip (metal or plastic) you can clear the holes....doesn't take much
Cool cello. Didn't think you needed a rebuttal. And you're right, you can turn a formed wire. The slogan's more of an appeal to those still hand winding and there's a whole bunch more of them out there every day. Lot of youtube videos to overcome.
And if you are getting a better vape from a micro or tension you know why I feel the way I do.
Just have a tendency to speak to the bleachers, seize the moment so to speak. And I know there's a lot here just gettin' started. Wanna make sure we all get some of that happy dance. Never would've made it myself if I'd had to on factory coils or hand winding. Knew a lot of new vapers were going to need faster results than compression and torching. Too burdensome for many. Using strain def speeds that up and the vape more predictable when work or pref's make rebuilding tough. We need as many on board as possible to stave off being the pigeonholed minority again. Trying to make it easier for those that might most benefit from it.
Well that's my story and I'm stickin' to it C.
You take care and good luck.
I will try to find something to make a little jig and try this
I will try to find something to make a little jig and try this
It's different dude, guarantee ya. I was a real skeptic of super_X's micro's from way back. I had to say I was even more so when I hit those close contact coils he was playin' with. Hotter'n hell. And I said this ain't never gonna work. I knew that getting them to stick should be possible. And I played at it and played at it over several weeks. Never got it right. You see, I'm stubborn to boot. I settled for the idea of trying to get 'em as close but not too close and precise. Then I got to the point how, not quite sure, where I started to strain 'em a bit too much in my effort to get them tight and consistent. And damn if the darn things would not stay apart. Seemed the more I tried, the more I kept making tensioned coils.
That's where you're going to be. Then you'll see what I mean.
Good luck there skunk. LMK if you need a hand.
I've been using the RBA exclusively for about a month now and have had the top cap come loose and come off but never just the washer. Did you try screwing the RBA in gently till it makes contact? It really shouldn't be over-tightened ........Also I'm thinking you might have a burr/rough surface on the air pipe itself. That would definitely tear the washer off.....Just my
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I just ordered a wood one myself so I'll let you know if no one else does. I have a silver one right now which is smooth and metally but I'm inclined to believe the wood has more of a hard plastic textured surface? It is hard to tell from the pictures.
I've been using the RBA exclusively for about a month now and have had the top cap come loose and come off but never just the washer. Did you try screwing the RBA in gently till it makes contact? It really shouldn't be over-tightened ........Also I'm thinking you might have a burr/rough surface on the air pipe itself. That would definitely tear the washer off.....Just my
Thanks, I'll check for burrs and go steady with the tightening
Yip, lost mine too. Used one from the commercial coils to replace. This is the one you are referring too:
Yip, lost mine too. Used one from the commercial coils to replace. This is the one you are referring too:
That's the one. The only issue is I'm loosing one every rebuilt, so it costs me a new cs coil each time lol
If you buy the colored, rubberized 'skin' for the eGrip, it adds enough clearance from the actual bottom of the unit that the screw-in base won't protrude when you're vaping on BVC coils - this allows the unit to sit upright and perfectly level.
Hi guys, I bought the egrip a few days ago and I am having some issues with it. It seems to fire fine for the first couple of hits but after that it only fires for a second or two and the light on the button starts flashing. That would seem to indicate a short but I tried both of the factory heads and I get the same result. I tried a BVC coil head and it does that as well. Lastly, I tried the RBA base with the factory build and my own build. Everything seems to result in the same thing with the button blinking after a second or two of pressing it. I've also turned the device on and off, recharged and did everything I could possibly think of. Anyone else experience similar issues?
I have one that intermittently does this, but it seems to behave after a long recharge (beyond the light going out).
Over tightening the coil base can cause this problem. Try backing off the base a quarter turn.
I lost my first one today. But I got it out intact with a pair of sharp, pointy tweezers by edging it out via the fill hole. It came out easily and in one piece!
They are nice but pricey!
Well i tried the method of taking the air out first with a needle bottle, works a treat! Zero leakage! And filled the tank right up. Just awesome.
Just helps to have a needle bottle on hand
Anyone know of a good needle bottle i can use for transport? Has to be a good rugged one as i have a normal bottle with a needle on top with a rubber stopper. Can't carry that around with me!
Oh i have a Ucan by innokin but can't remove the air with that one.
This method doesn't work with a normal juice bottle. Has to be a needle end.
Any suggestions?
Just buy some bottles with plastic needle ends, that have regular ejuice caps. That's all I use now. Vicki at Cignot has them and they are GREAT:
https://www.cignot.com/product_p/msc-drp-bot.htm
you get TWO bottles for $2.00, can't beat that. Pick up some supplies for your egrip there while yer at it, cuz you don't wnt to pay shipping just for a $2.00 bottle order.
Since a couple people have asked what I did to my RBA, here's a pic. RBA is on the right
You'll notice the air holes I've added, if you compare mine to one that hasn't been modified. This, combined with plugging the bottom, allows you to use the stock airflow adjustment
Any issues? I am interested in drilling out a rba base like this to utilize both the stock and rba airflows
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