New Joyetech 20watt eGrip
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I use jewelers pliers as a jig
Hold the leg at the very tip of the pliers, pliers up tight against the coil. Bend the leg: it will bend in a perfect angle, right at the pliers
Hold the leg at the very tip of the pliers, pliers up tight against the coil. Bend the leg: it will bend in a perfect angle, right at the pliers
Thanks. The issue I have is fitting the legs into the post holes. I have to stretch the coil apart to get the legs far enough out to reach the holes.
If nothing else you need to eliminate the section of the wire anchored at the collet and usually a half turn or more. Try this…
° With the coil still on the bit, flip the bit with the last wound turn against the collet face;
° Using your fingers (thumb and index) tweeze the starting turn wire with light tension (like gift ribbon);
° Notice that the grip of the turn on the bit is relaxed depending on how much tension you used;
° With practice you can apply tension to remove quarter, half or full turns; until,
° You arrive at your desired wind count. Voila!
An alternative which helps with thicker gauges is to use a light needle nose. Worshop tools won't afford you the control you need even with thick wire. Some users believe the heavier tools will let them apply tension. That's not the case. Adding more tension at the end turn or turns than originally input may destabilize the entire coil and you'll get uneven heat distribution or even a hot coil and/or leads. If that happens during dewinding best not to fiddle with it. It takes seconds to wind another and you deserve a better vape.
However, again with a bit of practice you can lightly tension off end turns as above with a forceps or light needle nose. This is helpful in balancing the end turn tension which may be required with thicker wire.
Always support the spine or back of the coil, opposite the leads, as you make any adjustment. This will help preserve adhesion of turns, their relationship to each other, which if altered breaks the wind. It will retain the altered shape.
Small moves vj. You gals have a huge advantage over us guys with the precision fine finger motion control you have. Outshoot us at the range every day of the week, for one. Add a smidgeon of patience and you'll have one fine looking and functional coil.
Good luck and just nudge as you did if you need a hand.
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I use two pair of hemostats for bending/manipulating coil legs.They're great tools for a lot of things.
If nothing else you need to eliminate the section of the wire anchored at the collet and usually a half turn or more. Try this…
° With the coil still on the bit, flip the bit with the last wound turn against the collet face;
° Using your fingers (thumb and index) tweeze the starting turn wire with light tension (like gift ribbon);
° Notice that the grip of the turn on the bit is relaxed depending on how much tension you used;
° With practice you can apply tension to remove quarter, half or full turns; until,
° You arrive at your desired wind count. Voila!
An alternative which helps with thicker gauges is to use a light needle nose. Worshop tools won't afford you the control you need even with thick wire. Some users believe the heavier tools will let them apply tension. That's not the case. Adding more tension at the end turn or turns than originally input may destabilize the entire coil and you'll get uneven heat distribution or even a hot coil and/or leads. If that happens during dewinding best not to fiddle with it. It takes seconds to wind another and you deserve a better vape.
However, again with a bit of practice you can lightly tension off end turns as above with a forceps or light needle nose. This is helpful in balancing the end turn tension which may be required with thicker wire.
Always support the spine or back of the coil, opposite the leads, as you make any adjustment. This will help preserve adhesion of turns, their relationship to each other, which if altered breaks the wind. It will retain the altered shape.
Small moves vj. You gals have a huge advantage over us guys with the precision fine finger motion control you have. Outshoot us at the range every day of the week, for one. Add a smidgeon of patience and you'll have one fine looking and functional coil.
Good luck and just nudge as you did if you need a hand.
Thank you, hopefully I'll get a chance to give it a go soon... this is the first calm moment I've had today and I'm to tired...
I use tweezers to hold the leg at the coil, bend with finger, and cut to length.
V, glad to see the jig and it's working Your guy does good work 
I don't un-wind the first turn or three....but that's just me I tension wrap the whole way.
V, glad to see the jig and it's working
Your guy does good work I don't un-wind the first turn or three....but that's just me
I tension wrap the whole way.
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Will things like the Clapton coil or diamond coil fit in the rba? I haven't received mine yet but it looks so much smaller than other systems I've seen. I'm gonna be really disappointed if I can't build kick ... coils and can't use them in this thing
The eGrip is not really a device for those types of coils, unless you can pull one off @ 1.2 ohms and above..
That said, I find it to be a cloud-maker with a standard, properly constructed build.. 
You're going to be disappointed. Not only are you dealing with a 1.2 Ω minimum resistance, but the post holes in the RBA deck are way too small for those types of fancy coils. From my experience, anything larger than a single 28ga wire won't fit.
Edit: I own 2 eGrips, and both vape beautifully with standard horizontal coils at 1.2 Ω.
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Prepare to be disappointed then, the eGrip RBA isn't really a deck for crazy builds. It is a very small build deck... Maybe a teeny-tiny diamond coil would fit, maybe...
I've done a twisted 30g coil in it, worked quite well, but that's about as "crazy" as you can get with it.
I run twisted 32 on mine. Crazy enough. Can't imagine it getting any better....kicks the crap outta every other rta I own for flavor...plenty of vapor as well at 14.5w.
Discovered a better way to use the Aspire BVC coils yesterday, thought i’d share.
When you switch the metal pin on the bottom with the CS pin, you can also remove the rubber along with it and replace that as well. Just make sure the contact wire is inside the rubber hole. this allows the CS pin to fit snug and also have better contact with the wire, also seems to fit just a little better in the egrip. it might be all in my head but the coils fire better after i did this.
When you switch the metal pin on the bottom with the CS pin, you can also remove the rubber along with it and replace that as well. Just make sure the contact wire is inside the rubber hole. this allows the CS pin to fit snug and also have better contact with the wire, also seems to fit just a little better in the egrip. it might be all in my head but the coils fire better after i did this.
So you guys have been able to get it to fire 1.2ohm coils ?
I just fought with one coil for an hour to get it to fire (blinky light, as I have not got the adapter yet was at work anyway) and an 8 wrap/2.4mm 28ga with short legs. Nothing touching, but got home and threw in a 9 wrap/2.4mm coil....fired fine.
Coil that came out was an 8 wrap but the legs were a fuzz longer....go figure.
I just fought with one coil for an hour to get it to fire (blinky light, as I have not got the adapter yet
was at work anyway) and an 8 wrap/2.4mm 28ga with short legs. Nothing touching, but got home and threw in a 9 wrap/2.4mm coil....fired fine.Coil that came out was an 8 wrap but the legs were a fuzz longer....go figure.
The diamond coil I at least have to try, rip trippers had one firing at 1.8ohms that he build super small to fit into a protank.
Give it a try Panda. Post some pics wicked and unwicked if you find time.
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