New Joyetech 20watt eGrip

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vjdossey

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Aug 12, 2013
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If nothing else you need to eliminate the section of the wire anchored at the collet and usually a half turn or more. Try this…


° With the coil still on the bit, flip the bit with the last wound turn against the collet face;

° Using your fingers (thumb and index) tweeze the starting turn wire with light tension (like gift ribbon);

° Notice that the grip of the turn on the bit is relaxed depending on how much tension you used;

° With practice you can apply tension to remove quarter, half or full turns; until,

° You arrive at your desired wind count. Voila!


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An alternative which helps with thicker gauges is to use a light needle nose. Worshop tools won't afford you the control you need even with thick wire. Some users believe the heavier tools will let them apply tension. That's not the case. Adding more tension at the end turn or turns than originally input may destabilize the entire coil and you'll get uneven heat distribution or even a hot coil and/or leads. If that happens during dewinding best not to fiddle with it. It takes seconds to wind another and you deserve a better vape.

However, again with a bit of practice you can lightly tension off end turns as above with a forceps or light needle nose. This is helpful in balancing the end turn tension which may be required with thicker wire.

Always support the spine or back of the coil, opposite the leads, as you make any adjustment. This will help preserve adhesion of turns, their relationship to each other, which if altered breaks the wind. It will retain the altered shape.

Small moves vj. You gals have a huge advantage over us guys with the precision fine finger motion control you have. Outshoot us at the range every day of the week, for one. Add a smidgeon of patience and you'll have one fine looking and functional coil.

Good luck and just nudge as you did if you need a hand.

:)

Mac, few quick questions I've not wanted to ask out of fear of feeling 'dumb' but want to be sure I understand as I move forward...
Sticky??? I assume that is when coil turns are so tight they 'stick' together? And 'collet'? Is that the bead I use as a stopper on the winding rod?

And now, my rod is 2mm, closest I've found to 2.5... I have several other rods, vary from 1mm to 3mm... I found last night 7 turns gets me closest to 1.4-1.5 with 28 gauge kanthal. I.have run through my lil stash of kanthal now (Tim has actually... seems he enjoys winding, lol) and I'm going to order more today. Should I stick with 28 gauge? seems it'll suit my needs for the egrip and my st mini? Thanks for the help!
 

Topdawgbp

Full Member
Feb 13, 2015
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Las Vegas
Will definitely be buying more of these. It's a bit cliché, but I think I really have found my perfect device. Stealthy, well built, looks great (pictures don't do it justice) and price wise it's spot on. I'm very, very impressed.

I've been wondering why i see a bunch of ppl saying they're gonna buy a few more of these. Is it for the obvious reason of having a backup just in case one fails or is there other reasons? I've seen ppl say they're going to buy a bunch more and it just made me curious as I don't see these suddenly becoming unavailable.
 

MacTechVpr

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Aug 24, 2013
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Mac, few quick questions I've not wanted to ask out of fear of feeling 'dumb' but want to be sure I understand as I move forward...
Sticky??? I assume that is when coil turns are so tight they 'stick' together? And 'collet'? Is that the bead I use as a stopper on the winding rod?

And now, my rod is 2mm, closest I've found to 2.5... I have several other rods, vary from 1mm to 3mm... I found last night 7 turns gets me closest to 1.4-1.5 with 28 gauge kanthal. I.have run through my lil stash of kanthal now (Tim has actually... seems he enjoys winding, lol) and I'm going to order more today. Should I stick with 28 gauge? seems it'll suit my needs for the egrip and my st mini? Thanks for the help!

VJ I use the term to describe (closest proximity), the point in physics that two items cannot get any closer together. It's approximately there that wire starts to stretch and optimal uniformity of the wind begins. That closest point is where we likewise get the most consistent oxidation when we pulse…which is the goal. The better the oxidation the more stable resistance we get. The closest point of contact also gets us closer to the theoretical wind resistance that we're shooting for so we get consistency as well since we can repeat it with fair precision using tension.

I haven't evaluated the eGrip RBA. I prefer to go smaller in enclosures and tanks. But look the more wick you can use the more volume you can produce. Smaller diameters with compression on the wick give you more velocity and a slightly more diffuse warmer vape. Slightly larger and less compression more yield and denser, cooler. I'm using 2.5mm in the Subtank/Mini RBA and this seems to work but i'd try something a bit smaller in the eGrip like 5/64", #44 wire gauge (2.1844mm), 3/32" with the larger being more desirable if you have the power and airflow to match it. Don't overlook small gauges like #51 wire gauge (1.778mm) and Nextel XC-132 which is an impressive producer.

I look at wire gauge as simply a tool to pass on the max heat energy possible once I've selected a useable diameter again considering power and airflow. There coil toy and steam-engine.com are indispensable to finding the temperature output that suits your preference. Fit the device first. If you're not sure, find the middle ground. Then test both ends. Set up that plan then select wire inventory. But if you must select one to start with go with the 28AWG. It's sturdy and fires fast.

Nudge me anytime vj and good luck.

:)
 

MacTechVpr

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28ga seems pretty good for building around 1.5ohm to stay in the eGrip's "happy-zone"


Can't get much smaller than the eGrip RBA, lol If you prefer small you should check it out. ;)

Agree there R, 28's very versatile. Problem with me bro is…I like it all!

:D

Good luck.
 

Scribbles

Full Member
Apr 24, 2012
28
14
Australia
Hi everyone
Not sure if this is the right place to post but I'm having a melt down cause my eGrip just died. Have been searching on the forum but couldn't find much about any possible causes or fixes.
Had it about 6 weeks and has been working like gem up until this morning.
I emptied and washed it out last night. I always cover the USB port with tape and wash carefully (this thing is a pain in the ### to clean - it's only downfall).
Woke up this morning and the light around the fire button was flashing quickly. Thinking it was just low on battery I plug it in to charge. 2 hours later the light is still flashing quickly.
When I held down the fire button it would stay solid. Release and it would start flashing quickly again.
So thought I would try to turn it off and stick it back on charge.
5 clicks, unit turns off, put it on charge, nothing :(
Tried 5 different USB cords, still nothing.
Tried to turn it on, nothing. It won't even turn on now.
Anyone heard of this happening and if there is a fix?
Doing a google search threw up some stories of it dying and the magically working again the next day.
I have other devices but this has been my main out-of-the-house device for weeks and desperate to get it working again.
Any advice appreciated.
 

Interstink

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Hi everyone
Not sure if this is the right place to post but I'm having a melt down cause my eGrip just died. Have been searching on the forum but couldn't find much about any possible causes or fixes.
Had it about 6 weeks and has been working like gem up until this morning.
I emptied and washed it out last night. I always cover the USB port with tape and wash carefully (this thing is a pain in the ### to clean - it's only downfall).
Woke up this morning and the light around the fire button was flashing quickly. Thinking it was just low on battery I plug it in to charge. 2 hours later the light is still flashing quickly.
When I held down the fire button it would stay solid. Release and it would start flashing quickly again.
So thought I would try to turn it off and stick it back on charge.
5 clicks, unit turns off, put it on charge, nothing :(
Tried 5 different USB cords, still nothing.
Tried to turn it on, nothing. It won't even turn on now.
Anyone heard of this happening and if there is a fix?
Doing a google search threw up some stories of it dying and the magically working again the next day.
I have other devices but this has been my main out-of-the-house device for weeks and desperate to get it working again.
Any advice appreciated.

Have you tried replacing the coil, I've had this issue, seemed to be shorting. Your cleaning may have shorted it out somewhere. Try to dry it out more?
 

Scribbles

Full Member
Apr 24, 2012
28
14
Australia
Thanks for your reply.

Yep tried replacing the coil but still no luck.

When I turned it off and put it back on charge it didn't have a coil in it. Usually when the base is out and no coil inserted it just flashes 3 times.

Am hoping you are right and a little bit of water may have gotten it in and shorted so with a bit more drying time it will come good. Not holding my breath though.

You would have thought ease of cleaning the tank would have been high on Joyetech's list of requirements with this thing. It's the only thing that is putting me off rushing out to buy another. I love the unit but damn I hate cleaning it.
 

AmandaD

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Dec 9, 2013
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I thought I'd killed mine last time I washed out the tank (carefully, avoiding getting water near the USB port). It started autofiring, and then turned off and wouldn't turned on. I put in a ticket, boxed it up, and it sat for two days. They responded to the ticket, and I opened it up to check - and voila, it worked again. I suspect water was the culprit.

It's almost impossible to change flavor profiles in these things without risking damage!
 

Scribbles

Full Member
Apr 24, 2012
28
14
Australia
I thought I'd killed mine last time I washed out the tank (carefully, avoiding getting water near the USB port). It started autofiring, and then turned off and wouldn't turned on. I put in a ticket, boxed it up, and it sat for two days. They responded to the ticket, and I opened it up to check - and voila, it worked again. I suspect water was the culprit.

It's almost impossible to change flavor profiles in these things without risking damage!

Thanks Amanda. It gives me a glimmer of hope :)

Like you I am super careful when cleaning out the tank and tape up the USB port (and tiny airflow hole just in case). If water is the culprit the only place I can think it may have gotten into the device would be around the fire button even though water never usually goes near that side when cleaning.

Like you, I put a ticket in last night so will see what Joyetech say.

In the meantime I'll pop it away and check it in a few days and hope it magically comes back to life.
 

Cellodick

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ECF Veteran
Apr 14, 2014
173
133
Hollywood
Thanks Amanda. It gives me a glimmer of hope :)

Like you I am super careful when cleaning out the tank and tape up the USB port (and tiny airflow hole just in case). If water is the culprit the only place I can think it may have gotten into the device would be around the fire button even though water never usually goes near that side when cleaning.

Like you, I put a ticket in last night so will see what Joyetech say.

In the meantime I'll pop it away and check it in a few days and hope it magically comes back to life.

The airflow is open between the bottom cap. Leave the coil base in and flush it out through the fill hole, or liquid goes straight in. Leaving the coil base in will at least limit it. My solution is to not change flavor profiles, or change coil/ and have a few vapes of mixed flavor then it's gone.
 
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