New Kanger Box Mod- The Subox

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DCBD

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would have to know where its leaking from to really try and fix the issues, honestly it need to stripped down 100% clean all the o-rings.... wash it out, dry it. then try to put it all back together

I should have said this before, it leaks at the AFC. (I've never had a Subtank or Aero leak from anywhere else) But as you know, there are 3 different gaps when the AFC is installed. When a leak is discovered, the AFC has juice on it, there's no easy way to see where it came from. I think the o-ring on the top of the AFC is the most likely cause. If juice is coming out of the gaps next to the adjusting ring, I'm not sure how to go about fixing that.

Thank you everyone for your suggestions and help, I really appreciate it.
 

MagicJosh

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My Mutation X V3 works fine.

They only sell the mod separately to registered owners of Subtank Minis, says so right on the box. You have to send dna samples and pictures of you and your Subtank for verification.:yawn:

I can't disagree with you nor do I want to argue, just making observations from my end. Kanger hit a home run with this thing, maybe they'd have sold more units with the spring loaded pin. I'm happy as hell with my V1 and I'm proud to have gotten on at the ground floor.

If you're that unhappy with yours, I'll buy it from you.,

Im going to try


Damn. Here on Redit they speak about the subox mini not working well with most RDA's so far nothing of mine works. I was the first one to say, ''Maybe the fixed pin will work better'' Nope I was wrong. But Im not gonna sell it you don't want it. Its a waste of time and money. It's 2015 Im not going to agree with everything vaping related like a fanboy. Hell no Im going to contribute to helping make products better by being honest. Im happy when using it with Subtanks and RTA's. Just sucks I cant use everything. ALl they need is a spring loaded pin. That simple. 50 watts is allot and can be used to the fullest if they let us. :)\

Kanger Subox (KBOX Mini) Warning (510 pin, same issues as KBOX) : electronic_cigarette
 

SUPER K

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Where'd you see that, Super K? I've been looking at listings for the mod alone and haven't seen that as a condition anywhere. (GearBest, FT, CigaBuy, Sweet-Vapes, Wholesale Vapes...mostly pre-orders). Does it only come into play if you have warranty issues?
Sorry, it was sarcasm. Didn't mean to throw you for a loop.
 

cindycated

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Im going to try


Damn. Here on Redit they speak about the subox mini not working well with most RDA's so far nothing of mine works. I was the first one to say, ''Maybe the fixed pin will work better'' Nope I was wrong. But Im not gonna sell it you don't want it. Its a waste of time and money. It's 2015 Im not going to agree with everything vaping related like a fanboy. Hell no Im going to contribute to helping make products better by being honest. Im happy when using it with Subtanks and RTA's. Just sucks I cant use everything. ALl they need is a spring loaded pin. That simple. 50 watts is allot and can be used to the fullest if they let us. :)\

Kanger Subox (KBOX Mini) Warning (510 pin, same issues as KBOX) : electronic_cigarette
Yeah, that's the thing with Kanger. I love them for coming out with awesome products and I love them for listening to us and fixing stuff based on what we say, but there are always revisions, like they're using the people that bought the first batch as their guinea pigs. :confused: Maybe some prototypes going out to maybe some known reviewers for beta testing might've been nice. But unlike some of the other manufacturers out there, at least they do listen, and jump on the fixes pretty quickly.
 

IXIShogunR1

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I should have said this before, it leaks at the AFC. (I've never had a Subtank or Aero leak from anywhere else) But as you know, there are 3 different gaps when the AFC is installed. When a leak is discovered, the AFC has juice on it, there's no easy way to see where it came from. I think the o-ring on the top of the AFC is the most likely cause. If juice is coming out of the gaps next to the adjusting ring, I'm not sure how to go about fixing that.

Thank you everyone for your suggestions and help, I really appreciate it.

i'll have to take a closer look at one of mine and see what i can come up with. theres gotta be a way to fix it, and its probably some seal thats just out of wack or too much juice not letting it seal.
ill chime back in if i come up with something soon
 
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cindycated

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i'll have to take a closer look at one of mine and see what i can come up with. theres gotta be a way to fix it, and its probably some seal thats just out of wack or too much juice not letting it seal.
ill chime back in if i come up with something soon
Could there be a vacuum leak or something somewhere else in the atty? Like on the KF, it was always that stupid little o-ring in the top cap at the top of the chimney that caused the atty to leak at the air hole.
 
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vjdossey

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[emoji38] And just so I can go on record before anyone thinks this was all my doing, I just posted a late night selfie of myself and my gift. If anyone else wants to 'break out of the matrix' so to speak, it is fully optional. Not calling anyone out. At all.
and I only changed my pic cuz I NEVER use my pretty green mvp anymore. It serves as a charger once in na while... it was a coincidence :) but glad to see this unfold :)
 

IXIShogunR1

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Could there be a vacuum leak or something somewhere else in the atty? Like on the KF, it was always that stupid little o-ring in the top cap at the top of the chimney that caused the atty to leak at the air hole.

it could be possible, but the Subtanks chimney seal is in the coil, and if he replaced that it should of fixed it
 
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IXIShogunR1

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so just looking at it really fast, you have the seal on the bottom of the coil, so thats seals anything from the AFC from the coil, there's the seal on the top of the coil that seals the chimney

you have the 2 main seals for the glass
then you have one seal at the base of the glass

for it to be leaking at the AFC or into the AFC one of the coil seals has to be messed up or not seating right...... or its flooding somehow

i still think it needs to be completely broken down and washed/clean out, then dried really well to make sure all the seal points are not dirty, or have juice in them. i think once thats done it will be ok
 

vjdossey

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I have an interesting twist on the floating pin problem. I don't think I've had anything not work on the Kbox Mini I got with the Subox kit, but I don;t have that much to put on it. However...

I have 3 STMs. One an original with only 1 AF sslot (or hole). The second has a 2 hole AF , similar (identical I think?) to the one in the Subox kit but it came with the old RBA and horizontal factory coils. The third is the Subox, of course.

One of those tanks WILL NOT read properly on either of my ohmmeters. Both ohmmeters are the usual black boxes with a 510 for the tank and an ego/510 kind of thing for a battery.

On one ohmmeter it will read correctly if I tighten juuuust so, and then short out if I tighten it enough to actually get a good reading. The range it will read properly is miniscule and too lose to trust a good connection. On the other ohmmeter I think it reads open regardless how it is tightened. Yet if works fine on the Subox mod, my iStick 50W and my two Provaris. I've looked carefully at the STM's 510 and cleaned it out with a piece of coil wire. I can't figure out why it shorts in the one ohmmeter.

Any ideas? Anyone had a similar problem with any of the STMs? (can't recall which one does that now, I need to retest and note that).
I have one that does the same thing. Thought it was me loosing my mind. Even thought it was a lost o ring isdue but it turns out it's not lost, it's the one with clear insulator. Tried all kinds of fixes. I thought at first, it was my coils but since them just chalked it up to being a finicky one and I work around it by switching mods til it's good.
 
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VNeil

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I have one that does the same thing. Thought it was me loosing my mind. Even thought it was a lost o ring isdue but it turns out it's not lost, it's the one with clear insulator. Tried all kinds of fixes. I thought at first, it was my coils but since them just chalked it up to being a finicky one and I work around it by switching mods til it's good.
@vjdossey... Just becuz I'm insane does not mean you are safe
 
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Rixsta

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It works and it works well. Just wanted to say thanks to the guys and gals who shared the Q tip filling idea, I finally got around to trying it, that extra 1ml or 1.3ml of juice you can get into the Subtank Mini really does make a difference when I'm at work all day. What a clever idea that was !
 

MagicJosh

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Yeah, that's the thing with Kanger. I love them for coming out with awesome products and I love them for listening to us and fixing stuff based on what we say, but there are always revisions, like they're using the people that bought the first batch as their guinea pigs. :confused: Maybe some prototypes going out to maybe some known reviewers for beta testing might've been nice. But unlike some of the other manufacturers out there, at least they do listen, and jump on the fixes pretty quickly.

I found a fix around it. For any atty with an adjustable 510 on the bottom just screw it out far enough to show up on screen to read your atty. I tried some of my atty's and not all, but some work if you adjust the center pin on the bottom's. So I don't completely hate the kbox anymore. Took me some time to figure that one out. DAH! . I never had to do that before so i drew a blank, when trying them on my kbox. Mutation X v3's work when adjusted. Same with anything else similar.
 

cindycated

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I found a fix around it. For any atty with an adjustable 510 on the bottom just screw it out far enough to show up on screen to read your atty. I tried some of my atty's and not all, but some work if you adjust the center pin on the bottom's. So I don't completely hate the kbox anymore. Took me some time to figure that one out. DAH! . I never had to do that before so i drew a blank, when trying them on my kbox. Mutation X v3's work when adjusted. Same with anything else similar.
And if you can't screw it out on the atty, someone posted these awhile back:
spacer.jpg

Circuit Board Spacer

What sucks is when the atty pin is too long and you go man on it to screw it in all the way, then push the mod pin in. There's a little white grommet that holds the pin in place, and when that gets pushed in and dislodged, it looks like a PITA to put it back how it goes.
 
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