New Koopor 200w TC setup, thoughts?

[MrZombieAndMe]

Hey guys, been a while since I've been on the forums. Lets just say things have been quite hectic and I never had a chance to get as involved here as I'd hoped. So maybe heres a new start. I'd just like to ask around the community for some possible advice on the new set-up I have. I'm hoping for anyone who might impart some experience using the same mod, or at least some similar experience with TC mods.

I just moved on from my itaste vtr and clk1280 to a Koopor Plus 200w TC mod. I stuck a Subtank Plus 7.0ml tank on her with the ni 200 0.15 ohm coils set to about 500f and I'm pretty happy. Taste is great and its not giving me any issues. To be fair this is a replacement tank as the first one I had bought seemed to have an issue with the air flow ring. For some reason it suddenly became loose and wasn't clicking into positions. The atty itself stopped being detected entirely, or was jumping all the way up to a resistance level too high to be fired. Basically an issue with the 510 connector. After having the base swapped, I'm doing good. I have 2 LG HG2 batteries in her, which are apparently some of the best batteries for sub-ohming and I gotta say that they are definitely holding out. Long battery life for sure.

 

[BigEgo]

Glad you like it. Now you should experiment with titanium and stainless steel wires.

 

[MrZombieAndMe]

I'm sure I could find the answer by searching, but seeing as you're a veteran then maybe you could give me some personal insight on which metal you've found to be the most enjoyable in your mods? Or whichever you've found you've enjoyed the most in general.

 

[BigEgo]

Titanium. It can be temp controlled, has a clean taste and is more hassle free than nickel.

 

[KenD]

I enjoy titanium and stainless steel (304) equally. Ss has the benefit that it can be used in vw as well. Ni200 I won't touch anymore, simply not worth the hassle.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

 

[MrZombieAndMe]

Hey guys. Thanks for the replies so far.
I'm finding this nickel one is taking quite a bit of tweaking to get the settings right. The koopor offers an ni coefficient setting. I'm not sure what it does and if its necessary, but its currently set to 0.00600. I'm going at 500f, and the vape goes up to about 60w at high settings before temp locking. Any higher than 500 and I start to taste burn.

So what is it about nickel that's so bad? Sorry, I'm new to the TC world. Thanks for the information.

 

[KenD]

Hey guys. Thanks for the replies so far.
I'm finding this nickel one is taking quite a bit of tweaking to get the settings right. The koopor offers an ni coefficient setting. I'm not sure what it does and if its necessary, but its currently set to 0.00600. I'm going at 500f, and the vape goes up to about 60w at high settings before temp locking. Any higher than 500 and I start to taste burn.

So what is it about nickel that's so bad? Sorry, I'm new to the TC world. Thanks for the information.

Ni200 is very soft so it'll deform easily. I have tempered ni200 but I still have (had) to be very careful when wicking and rewicking it.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

 

[DaveP]

Good thread. I'm interested in trying TC in my Smok Koopor Plus 200W. I've wound my own Kanthal coils for the last two years for my Kayfun 3 and 4 and prior to that I rebuilt Protank coils with cotton and Kanthal.

Ni and Ti have to be smaller wire from what I hear. I like 28ga Kanthal because I can use eight 3mm turns for 2 ohms. 32ga requires smaller diameters to get length across the wick and coil for proper atomization.

After looking at various TC tanks, it seems that all the coils are extreme sub ohm in the .15 range. Do I have to sub ohm to enjoy temperature control or is that just what's cool these days?

 

[ThaFuzz]

Good thread. I'm interested in trying TC in my Smok Koopor Plus 200W. I've wound my own Kanthal coils for the last two years for my Kayfun 3 and 4 and prior to that I rebuilt Protank coils with cotton and Kanthal.

Ni and Ti have to be smaller wire from what I hear. I like 28ga Kanthal because I can use eight 3mm turns for 2 ohms. 32ga requires smaller diameters to get length across the wick and coil for proper atomization.

After looking at various TC tanks, it seems that all the coils are extreme sub ohm in the .15 range. Do I have to sub ohm to enjoy temperature control or is that just what's cool these days?

Not if you use stainless steel, it builds a lot closer to kanthal than nickel does

 

[KenD]

Not if you use stainless steel, it builds a lot closer to kanthal than nickel does

Most tc mods require the coil to be one ohm or lower though. Stainless steel still has a lower resistance than kanthal a1 and nichrome, though nowhere as low as ni200. However, subohming with a regulated device isn't a problem. The mods have built in safety features and the battery drain is based on watts, not resistance.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

 

[BigEgo]

Good thread. I'm interested in trying TC in my Smok Koopor Plus 200W. I've wound my own Kanthal coils for the last two years for my Kayfun 3 and 4 and prior to that I rebuilt Protank coils with cotton and Kanthal.

Ni and Ti have to be smaller wire from what I hear. I like 28ga Kanthal because I can use eight 3mm turns for 2 ohms. 32ga requires smaller diameters to get length across the wick and coil for proper atomization.

After looking at various TC tanks, it seems that all the coils are extreme sub ohm in the .15 range. Do I have to sub ohm to enjoy temperature control or is that just what's cool these days?

As KenD said, it doesn't matter on TC controlled devices what your resistance is. When you go TC, you need to think in terms of coil surface area (the more coil, the more power you need) as well as heat capacity.

You said you like 28 gauge, 3mm, 8 wrap kanthal at 2Ω. I just ran that build through steam-engine and the surface area of that coil is about 97mm² with a heat flux of 10.27mW and a heat capacity of 25.53mJ/K. If you built a Ti coil of the same exact dimensions, it would, of course, have the same surface area and the same heat flux. (how hot the coil gets at any given wattage), but it would have a lower heat capacity (how fast it heats). All in all, though, it would vape about the same as the kanthal build. The difference is the Ti coil would have a resistance of about .56Ω as opposed to the 2Ω of kanthal.

So, as you can see, the resistance doesn't matter. It's all about the surface area of the coil. The only reason Ohms was ever "a thing" is because everyone was using the same wire and it was easy to visualize how a 1Ω coil would vape and how much power it would need. In reality, it had nothing to do with the resistance but with the surface area of the coil.

 

[DaveP]

Not if you use stainless steel, it builds a lot closer to kanthal than nickel does

My LEMO 2 came in the other day with a .56 ohm coil that looked to be about 26ga bright silver mystery wire already installed and wicked. I soaked the coil and wick, filled it up, and tried it in wattage mode. Not knowing what the heck they did with the coil (dry burned or annealed or not at the factory) I fired it up and vaped for a while. There was lots of metallic taste in the vape that never went away.

I tried it in temp mode and it accepted the coil and worked, but with the same metallic taste. Nothing in the user manual talked about what coil wire type was installed at the factory, so I ripped out that coil and wound one from 28ga Kanthal. Even after a good hot water wash there was still some metallic taste in the vapor with the Kanthal coil. I didn't feel any oily residue, but I might have to boil it to get rid of the under taste of metal.

 

[BigEgo]

My LEMO 2 came in the other day with a .56 coil that looked to be about 26ga bright silver mystery wire already installed and wicked. I soaked the coil and wick, filled it up, and tried it in wattage mode. Not knowing what the heck they did with the coil (dry burned or annealed or not at the factory) I fired it up and vaped for a while. There was lots of metallic taste in the vape that never went away.

I tried it in temp mode and it accepted the coil and worked, but with the same metallic taste. Nothing in the user manual talked about what coil wire type was installed at the factory, so I ripped out that coil and wound one from 28ga Kanthal. Even after a good hot water wash there was still some metallic taste in the vapor with the Kanthal coil. I didn't feel any oily residue, but I might have to boil it to get rid of the under taste of metal.

I would wager it was Nichrome which is something lots of companies use as "stock" wire.

 

[kushpancake]

I'm running SS316L 26g in both my Indulgence mt-rta and newly aquired Griffin sitting on my Koopor+ and havent thought about kanthal once.. Running it at 460° and have it set to .00092

 

[DaveP]

I've had issues with Ti and SS 316L in my Koopor Plus 200W. With either Ti or SS 316L 28ga the vape is hot and crackly. With SS in wattage mode it's a good vape.

I have TCR set at 0.00350 for Ti and at 0.00088 for SS. Any suggestions? Both coils were around .5 to .7 ohms. I did set the coil type to SC for single coil.

 

[ThaFuzz]

@DaveP what wattage are you running it at in wattage mode? Did you adjust the strength setting in tc?also, i use .00092 tcr for ss316

 

[cheech226]

[QUOTE="
I have TCR set at 0.00350 for Ti and at 0.00088 for SS. Any suggestions? Both coils were around .5 to .7 ohms. I did set the coil type to SC for single coil.[/QUOTE]

try a tcr of 370 for the ti wire, i use that with my evic mini.

 

[DaveP]

Thanks, guys. I'll try the settings recommended. I couldn't believe the vape could be so hot and the coil popping and crackling loudly at 250 degrees. At 200 it was all I could do to get a vape before it shut down with temperature faults.

Does a small change in TCR setting make a lot of difference? This thing can pump the voltage up to 8 volts, so there's a lot of range for it to max out in.

 

[DaveP]

Double post ... deleted.

 

[ThaFuzz]

@DaveP tcr makes loads of difference. Adjust tcr and temp will be correct. Wrong tcr will not read temp right and cause way too hot vapes with the temp set low. And also check the strength (min, soft, etc.. ) that is the wattage adjustment in temp mode