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I actually think the clear ones are un-attractive as well. I understand that they function to see your juice level, but it looks like a scientific experiment, or something that should be illegal. I think a long, slender window on the side of a stainless housing is the way to go, and it would solve many problems of the all plastic ones, yet still allow you to see the juice level.
They could just thread the end to make re-filling a breeze. I don't know why they complicate re-filling.
They could then perfect this new system.
They could just thread the end to make re-filling a breeze. I don't know why they complicate re-filling.
They could then perfect this new system.
Video coming tonight (maybe in two hours)...it's 16 minutes long...I scanned it for places to cut...but I felt like this is the first word on this product so I didn't want to cut anything.
Watched it too, they need to make these out of more 'syringe like' plastic, same w/ the CE2's. My syringe tubes I made are holding strong months later. They could also make those plugs out of harder plastic, like r2 CE2's had; much easier to get out.
I'd imagine the vapor is cooler w/ the coil on the bottom?
I'd imagine the vapor is cooler w/ the coil on the bottom?
well the BMF cartos also have the coils at the bottom, and warm vapor.
I think it's more a question of the vapor path. If you look at the vapor path on an ego-t, going from the atty and then through the little side air-vents in the tank, I think that's the reason the vapor is colder. Vapor path on these seems about the same as a BMF carto.
I think it's more a question of the vapor path. If you look at the vapor path on an ego-t, going from the atty and then through the little side air-vents in the tank, I think that's the reason the vapor is colder. Vapor path on these seems about the same as a BMF carto.
noobie question, but if they are Kr8's couldn't you just refill them with the condom method?
I think they could easily fix the hard to get out O-ring issue, by having the O-ring be an integrated part of the removable tip (as stated in the video), but make the O-ring thicker, and the center tube longer so the O-ring (attached to the tip) will seat right over the center tube everytime, and seal it. Thus making removal and installation simple. I don't understand why the O-ring is a separate piece from the removable tip, when you you could just make the center tube longer.
This would also allow more room for more juice, because the the center tube would be longer, and the O-ring would not go so low into the tube.
As for the bottom cracks and leakage, I stand by my original idea of making them stainless steel with a see-thru window.
This would also allow more room for more juice, because the the center tube would be longer, and the O-ring would not go so low into the tube.
As for the bottom cracks and leakage, I stand by my original idea of making them stainless steel with a see-thru window.
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The space between the o-ring and the tip is probably there to retain any excess liquid.
The ego-t tanks have a similar chamber at the mouthpiece. when liquid manages to get up the air-vents, it usually ends up there, instead of directly in the mouth.
The ego-t tanks have a similar chamber at the mouthpiece. when liquid manages to get up the air-vents, it usually ends up there, instead of directly in the mouth.
You are right...it does retain excess liquid there...ends up being the sum of all the condensation...eventually pools. It's actually a substantial amount of Liquid after a little while.
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