New mech mod recommendation for SHTF

[CAAB]

I am stocked up with regulated mods for an indeterminate length of time, as there is an unanswered question of longevity. I am thinking now of 20 years out, having something that will get me another 20 or more years after that point.

I am familiar with Ohm's law, battery safety, etc... However, I have not delved into the mech mod market before. I see $10 mods and I see $400 mods.

Can you get a mech mod on fasttech for example that will last and be safe? When I say safe, I don't mean operator error, I mean the actual components of the mod themselves. Or should I look to some other marketplace? I see some nice mods in the $200 range and they talk about having silver on the contacts and ease of disassembly for maintenance. The components look beefy.

I am looking for a single 18650 mod. Recommendations would be appreciated. Quality and longevity being important, price also important but secondary.

BTW, I am aware that my profile photo is of a mechanical mod in case anyone wants to point out the irony. However, it has a self-resetting fuse and I am not 100% sure about my ability to reverse engineer the fuse going down the road.

 

[mimöschen]

If you want to play it safe, I'd go for a 21700 mech.
The Over-Lord and Rockvape Titan clones are worth every single penny.

 

[PeterKay]

If you want to play it safe, I'd go for a 21700 mech.
The Over-Lord and Rockvape Titan clones are worth every single penny.

why would a 21700 be safer than 18650? Isn't it: bigger battery= bigger bang?

 

[cadman]

One thing about the 18650 mech mods, they are usually 22mm in diameter. Limits you to a 22mm RDA, the 21700 usually take a 24mm or 25mm, but the 22mm RDA will still look good on it.

If you still want a 18650 mod, you might look at a SMPL clone. Almost bullet proof.. but, it is a hybrid, so make sure your RDA has a long enough center post.

 

[Izan]

A few of each and some 3D printing.

And the plans for the FUFDA mod. (just in case)
Rename .txt to .7z


Cheers
I

 

[CAAB]

If you want to play it safe, I'd go for a 21700 mech.
The Over-Lord and Rockvape Titan clones are worth every single penny.

One thing about the 18650 mech mods, they are usually 22mm in diameter. Limits you to a 22mm RDA, the 21700 usually take a 24mm or 25mm, but the 22mm RDA will still look good on it.

I am not averse to the idea of a 21700. I forgot to mention I like something straight and simple. Kind of reminds me of a cigar when it's like that.

 

[CAAB]

A few of each and some 3D printing.

That's very interesting. I am a little unclear though. Can you 3d print the whole thing or do you need to buy components and then 3d print the rest? I have never 3d printed before.

 

[Izan]

MM Mech Squonk Box (18650) Dinky Cuboid Design by RicModMaker on Shapeways
In 20 years, 3d printing will be ubiquitous.
The link lists what may be needed to complete the device.
As battery sizes change: 18350,18650,20700,21700,26650,26800 etc; new designs will be uploaded.
The basic components stay the same.

Hope that helps.
I

 

[mimöschen]

why would a 21700 be safer than 18650? Isn't it: bigger battery= bigger bang?

2x700s like the 30T, 40T, 2070C and P42A have a higher amp limit than most 18650s. So yes, they're a bit safer.

But I thought more about "safety" concerning future-proofness.

 

[Ben85]

2x700s like the 30T, 40T, 2070C and P42A have a higher amp limit than most 18650s. So yes, they're a bit safer.

But I thought more about "safety" concerning future-proofness.

I wouldn’t necessarily say they are a bit safer, as you said they have a higher amp limit. But that’s it. A short is still a short and could cause a battery to vent. You need to know what you are doing with an 18650, exactly the same as a 21000 and the same rules apply.

OP, yes you can get perfectly safe mods cheaply. If you understand the mechanics of a mech mod, you will know that tubes are literally that - a tube with a switch. Threading really is the only thing that fails as such. Or some switch components.

Check reviews out if buying from the clone sites. Personally I avoid clones and would sooner buy a used genuine mod, but YMMV. Out of the stack of mechs I own I generally only use 2 tubes - a Nemesis and a Satburn V2.

 

[mimöschen]

If you don't want to go the clone route, the Serisvape Bathala is a very nice mech mod as well.

 

[CAAB]

Thank you everyone for the recommendations. I am finding difficulty bringing myself to the idea of using a mech mod. I have kind of a worst-case scenario mindset. I think I would always be wondering in the back of my head if something was wrong with the insulators on the atomizer, or something wrong with the wraps, or something stuck in the 510 pin, etc... I don't know if I'd be able to turn that part of my mind off no matter how many times I inspected things...

 

[Izan]

Thank you everyone for the recommendations. I am finding difficulty bringing myself to the idea of using a mech mod. I have kind of a worst-case scenario mindset. I think I would always be wondering in the back of my head if something was wrong with the insulators on the atomizer, or something wrong with the wraps, or something stuck in the 510 pin, etc... I don't know if I'd be able to turn that part of my mind off no matter how many times I inspected things...

A hot spring or an automotive fuse may well quell your anxiety. A simple mosfet box would also offer a bit more protection.
I've been using a mech in one way, shape, or form almost exclusively since 2013.
So far, so good.

Cheers
I

 

[CAAB]

A simple mosfet box would also offer a bit more protection.

I was thinking something similar. I was looking into the Cthulhu tube mod. I could stock up on mosfet chips.

 

[vaper1960]

I've never had a mech mod (or claim to know anything about them) but this a great deal (maybe buy a couple):
HCigar Caravela Stainless Steel Mod (FINAL SALE) - $4.99 - VP Distributions & Wholesale Supplier

 

[Daniel Forsyth]

The Asmodus Rose Finch is definitely worth a look at, I highly recommend
asMODus Rose Finch Mechanical Mod single 18650
Very Nice Price

 

[Izan]

I was thinking something similar. I was looking into the Cthulhu tube mod. I could stock up on mosfet chips.

I was thinking DIY, but a COTS solution could work also.

Cheers
I

 

[CAAB]

I realize I have a gap in my knowledge and I have been unable to clarify. I am confused about current flow. Negative flows to positive. Positive post is insulated in an atomizer, but negative is not insulated from the exterior of the atomizer or mod as far as I can tell, even if the coil is not touching the bell. Maybe this is a stupid question but why is it you don't get shocked when you touch the atomizer as it is fired? Does it have to do with the current traveling the path of least resistance or some kind of faraday effect?

 

[Izan]

Skin typically has a resistance range that begins at ~100Ω and could be as high as 500,000Ω.
Yes, path of least resistance.

Cheers
I
ETA: Testing a 9v battery (twice plus the voltage of a single 18650) with your tongue, you feel current.
When zapped by static electricity , we react to the heat generated by the spark as it jumps and not the amps/volts/watts.
HTH
I

 

[CAAB]

Skin typically has a resistance range that begins at ~100Ω and could be as high as 500,000Ω.
Yes, path of least resistance.

I've heard of dirty threads or dirty components in a mechanical mod causing someone to become shocked, is this because it is affecting that path of least resistance? Or is there a broken faraday effect?

It seems more that the user risk is shorting the battery itself or otherwise exceeding the amp limit and the resulting venting that occurs.

Sorry if this is off topic, I just came across these questions when viewing mechanical mods and determining the theoretical knowledge behind the safety checklist.