New:) Need help Understanding VV/VW

[Moosekens93]

Hello.
My name Is Tyler.
I'm From Florida.
I've been around smoking my whole life, So of course The dummy i was i tried it when i was 15, And im 19 now and it was the biggest mistake i've made. Last year i turned to Dip. Hoping in doing soon id stop smoking. Well it did. But not completely. I still got hankerings for a Cigarette whenever i did, Id just throw a dip in. Well that stopped working. Then it turned into needing a hankering for both. In the long run, A little bit after the beginning of this year i was at a flea market and i saw a E-cig shop. Stopped in tried a few different flavors and bought a Ego starter kit for $60. I thank god that i found that place because i no longer use dip in place of a cigarette THough i get hankerings for that, But that's alright. Im damn well OCD when it comes to Brushing my teeth. Anyways Well since then the only thing ive bought was The CE4 Clearomizers, It wasnt untill After i bought The VV Lavatube Lambo/Vamo kit that i found out about this forum. Now i understand a little bit about the VV/VW thing, (Different Voltage and ohms = Different Flavor and vapor Etc)
My question is, How high should you go, How high should'nt you go on the ohms and voltage. Im not to familar with that stuff, So i dont quite understand it. When i first tried it, I think i had the voltage or ohm up to high cause when i went to take a hit off it i got a horrible burn heat and my Clearomizer stopped working. (Completely my fault) I really dont want to do that again. Which is the exact reason i joined this forum , I guess what im asking is , Is there a good like starting point that i should try or is it one of those find it yourself. I want good Cloud's and flavor, With just enough of a throat hit. IF that's even possible. Any help would be appreciated
Sorry in advance of my noobish ways and if none of that made sense or anything..

 

[Dvx67]

I didn't read all that but you should check out this thread, it is very informative:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...e-wanted-know-plus-bit-electronic-theory.html

 

[tearose50]

That's a great referral on the above post and one of the best I've seen in a long long time.

Also, it doesn't have to get complicated. Start on lowest setting and slowly work up to where you like it. It sure sounds like you had your clearo way way too high. Heck, I've done it too by mistake and have killed a "topper" or two.

But, it is also well worth some study to understand what's going on.

 

[Chimney34]

Welcome to the forum! The chart is great but generally, think of it this way (it was easier for me)...don't go more than 2 volts above whatever the resistance is or you'll risk burning. So if your clearo reads at 2.5ohms you should be able to safely vape at up to 4.5 volts. Just adjust it to what you like within that range. I usually like higher for bakery & lower settings for my fruity vapes. Hope this helps!

 

[Moosekens93]

Okay, I understand a little bit more.
Basically you just have to find the "Sweet Spot" for your liquid Liking.
Different volt's and Resistance equal different watts.
Which leads me to another Question What is the reason for finding out how much power it puts out.
IS it just to find out how much battery it uses or something?
Like is it better to have a LR Atomizer Or HR Atomizer?

 

[wv2win]

Both allow you to change the power output to the atty/carto/clearo (head) you are using to provide a warmer or cooler vape.

But variable watt (VW) is closer to "set & forget". When you vape, the resistence of the head you use, changes over time as you use it. With VW, it senses this change in resistence and automatically adjusts the power to maintain your original settings. Or if you change to a different head with a different resistence, it automatically adjusts the power for you. Better consistency.

 

[MamaTried]

>Which leads me to another Question What is the reason for finding out how much power it puts out.

generally speaking, if you discover you like a certain juice at, for example, 7.5 watts on a certain ohms topper, then you will probably like a different ohms topper also at 7.5 watts. VV devices require you to do some simple math in your head, VW devices take care of the math for you.

with VV if you switch from a 2.0 ohm topper to to a 1.7 topper, you might want to adjust the volts to get to 7.5 watts.

with a VW, when you switch, the APV makes the adjustment for you.

but, in the end, it's not that important because "start low and increase til it feels good" is all that's important

 

[AttyPops]

It's better to have an "average" atomizer/carto/coil. 2.3 ish ohms

It gives you the most "wiggle room" in either direction. With LR stuff you have to use lower voltage too. And with high ohms stuff designed for higher-voltages, you could hit a max voltage limit before the "sweet spot". e.g. some e-cigs max out at 4.8 volts but some attys/cartos are better at 5.0 v.

And FYI...(if you want it or not )

watts = volts²/ohms

So that will give you a "ballpark" idea of the heat you're generating. You'll still want to adjust it, so the "start lower and work up" rule still rings true.

 

[Moosekens93]

Thank you guys for everything. I'm beginning to understand all this alot better.
Just one more question.
On the "start low work your way up"
What should i start bumping up first.
THe Volt's Or the watt's.
Once i get that figured out everything else would be alot more understandable.

 

[AttyPops]

cum si cum sa

Wattage change IS voltage change, and vice versa. They are dependent upon each other. It just depends on if you're in VW mode or VV mode. You change one or the other, no need to mess with both. You set the mode once and use it that way, adjusting heat as necessary. i.e. VW mode vs VV mode is a matter of personal preference.

And up is hotter, down is cooler in both cases.

So the next question (if you allowed yourself another one ) is..."then what's the difference between VW and VV?"
The answer is that VW set's the votage according to the resistance of whatever you screw on. It reads the coil ohms and does that calculation for watts above....watts = volts²/ohms can be rewritten as volts = Sqrt(watts X ohms)

So say that you set it to 8 watts. Screw on a 2 ohm coil/atty/carto/tank. It reads 2 ohms and sets the voltage to 4.0 volts (4*4/2 = 8). Then you screw on a 2.5 ohm carto it sets the volts to 4.5 volts (4.5*4.5/2.5) is about 8.

So the VW allows you to set the "normal" heat level regardless of the coil you put on. It will auto-adjust the voltage on the fly behind the scenes. The kicker is....you may still want to adjust the heat up or down depending on what you screwed on or what juice is in it due to device differences or type of juice. It can only get you in the proper ballpark.

With VV...if you're using a 3.0 ohm coil and then switch to a 1.5 ohm coil and forget to turn the voltage down...you could pop it.

Regardless, "start low and work up" works in both modes since it's a heat adjustment....like a thermostat or a stove burner knob. You don't need to know the exact #'s even, just adjust it up or down. You start low to avoid burning and work up.

 

[Moosekens93]

Thank you guy's For everything.
I have alot better understanding of everything. Once i use this Mod a couple time's i'll Eventually understand it And VV/VW alot better

 

[jrod_141]

EDIT: this writeup was for RSST coil building, but the same electrical rules apply:


Power (in watts) = Volts x Amps = Volts squared / Resistance (ohms) = Current (amps) squared x Resistance (ohms)


thus, in order to maximize the amperage draw without exceeding the battery (panasonic 18650) (call it 8 amps):

power (in watts) = volts x amps

power (in watts) = 3.7 x8.0

power (in watts) = 29.6 watts

29.6 watts is the max you can draw from your setup, so now we have to build a coil that will draw 29.6 watts.

from above:

power (in watts) = volts squared / resistance

29.6 = 3.7x3.7 / resistance

29.6 = 13.69 / resistance (multiply both sides by "resistance")

29.6 x resistance = 13.69 (divide both sides by 29.6)

resistance = .4625

so, your coil has to be .4625 ohms in order to pull 30 watts and maximize your batteries at 8 amps.

This chart is for A1 type of Kanthal wire per inch, other grades are different.

28 awg (Ω/in) 0.5 ohms
30 awg (Ω/in) 0.7 ohms
31 awg (Ω/in) 0.9 ohms
32 awg (Ω/in) 1.2 ohms
33 awg (Ω/in) 1.4 ohms
34 awg (Ω/in) 1.8 ohms
35 awg (Ω/in) 2.3 ohms
36 awg (Ω/in) 2.9 ohms

The lower the ohms per inch, the more wraps you will need (to get our .47 ohms), this can be a trade off as the thinner wire needs less wraps but also has less surface contact to the liquid.

so for 28 awg kanthal, we need just under an inch of wire to get .47 ohms. so what you can do is measure from the end of the wire one inch, and mark it with a permanent marker. that way, when you are winding your coil, you can see that the black mark needs to be where you cut it, and you can wrap your coil accordingly.

in summary: the reason why ppl want to use a larger gauge of wire, is because a larger gauge of wire has less resistance, and that means you can have more turns on your coil (and more surface area) than if you use a smaller gauge of wire. the only think you have to keep in mind, is that your power source has to be able to put out the amount of power (in this case, about 8 amps). mech mods do not have any electronic components, so you don't have to worry about blowing up a nice electrical mod. if you have an electric mod that can only support 5 amps, but is also limited to 1.3 ohms (like the vamo, provari or svd), you can then do the math and figure out that you can only put out 2.8 amps at 1.3 ohms, and 10.5 watts. so in order to maximize our 1.3 ohms, we could use 2.6 inches of 28ga, 1.85 inches of 30ga, 1.4 inches of 32 ga. the only limitation at that point is how much space you have to wind the coil in. if you're winding a genesis, you might be able to wind a 2.6 in coil if you made the windings really close together. but if you're winding a coil for a protank or similar, the rules change. you have a lot less space to work in, so you have to pick a wire size that will allow you to wrap a coil with the right resistance in the physical space in the coil head.

 

[Camilo]

Wattage change IS voltage change, and vice versa. They are dependent upon each other. It just depends on if you're in VW mode or VV mode. You change one or the other, no need to mess with both. You set the mode once and use it that way, adjusting heat as necessary. i.e. VW mode vs VV mode is a matter of personal preference.
"then what's the difference between VW and VV?"
The answer is that VW set's the votage according to the resistance of whatever you screw on. It reads the coil ohms and does that calculation for watts above....
So say that you set it to 8 watts. Screw on a 2 ohm coil/atty/carto/tank. It reads 2 ohms and sets the voltage to 4.0 volts (4*4/2 = 8). Then you screw on a 2.5 ohm carto it sets the volts to 4.5 volts (4.5*4.5/2.5) is about 8.

THANK YOU!
Ive been watching alot of video reviews of all kinds of devices etc and was really confused about VV vs VW, until I read this!
AWESOME....Now being a NOOB myself, any good recommendations on a relatively inexpensive, easy to use VW device for me?
I currently have my starter kit a Smok ego style battery with a ViviNova 2ml tank (which im beginning to hate from the dry hits)
If youre feeling extra generous you could recommend a tank while youre at it.... thanks!

 

[Hemus]

Big help thanks guys. cant wait to get My mvp v2 and get rid of these little v2 ecigs