New Presa 100W TC

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52anddone

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@52anddone: WOW, you got that much run time out of a 18650!?!?! It really goes to show us that different vaping styles REALLY make the difference in run time.

My first run was with a Basen IMR 26650 4500mAH 60A! As "Mooch" says, all the 26650's have downright silly over ratings on them. My #6 just ate a eFest rated at 4500 which only ran for 2600mAH. I think I got a bit more out of a Basen pushing ~40K Joules on the #6 (forget the mAH measure however it was better than the eFest). The mAH ratings on 26650's are as silly as the over blown CDC ratings. :(

I really only get ~8-10hrs out of a LG HG2 18650. I run medium/low power D2L setups mostly. My dual coil setups on the #6 and Boxer exposed very noticeable battery droop resulting in less then optimum battery run time. My solution is/was to optimize some single coil builds for these mods.

In my book if I can vape after work Friday and all day Saturday and have enough charge to get my coffee on Sunday AM the setup is a winner. Until the release of 26650 regulated mods the IPV4S and Boxer 2x18650 were the only mods that would do the job. Battery run time on the Cuboid falls somewhere between a single and dual 18650 configuration.

I bought two Mxjo 26650's and I'm trying one in the Presa now. Granted I'm D2L but have a custom 30AWG flatwire NiFe build @ 0.98ohms that I'm driving with 25W in TC mode. It does not use the full 25W for long with THAT thin wire. ;)

I was wondering if you were into the TC vaping. I'm only doing Kanthal A-1, 30g Twisted single coil @ 1.36Ω in my Taifun GT-V2-T with Rayon.
I guess TC will sap the power out of batteries faster than Kanthal setups will, I just never knew how fast.

My 52 years of tobacco don't let me get a very good D2L hit at all, not much capacity left in the old lungs I'm afraid, but at times I will try anyway, I am stubborn like that.

I just checked over at Liion Distributing for some of those Basen Black 4500mAh 26650's and found that they were out of stock. Nutz !! I wanted to try some out.
 

GeorgeS

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    While it is true that many folks sub ohm TC builds suck up the power, the reality is that it all depends on build and use. Tons of folks toss 50-200W at large cloud chucking Kanthal builds which are enough to challenge any battery. I've fired 1.8ohm TC coils built out of SS430 - just because I can. Maximum output with minimum battery drain.

    Truth be told, my old Vamo and Vmax VV mods with Nautilus 1.8ohm setups only lasted ~5hrs at best so my modern TC builds with LG HG2's driving them last at least as long (usually a few hours longer) as the old M2L setups.

    I smoked for 44yrs so my lung capacity is but a fraction of the younger folk however that does not stop me from enjoying a decent D2L hit. I like a cooler airy vape with volume and substance. My current blend is 92% VG, 5% H2O and 3% PG.
     
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    52anddone

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    While it is true that many folks sub ohm TC builds suck up the power, the reality is that it all depends on build and use. Tons of folks toss 50-200W at large cloud chucking Kanthal builds which are enough to challenge any battery. I've fired 1.8ohm TC coils built out of SS430 - just because I can. Maximum output with minimum battery drain.

    Truth be told, my old Vamo and Vmax VV mods with Nautilus 1.8ohm setups only lasted ~5hrs at best so my modern TC builds with LG HG2's driving them last at least as long (usually a few hours longer) as the old M2L setups.

    I smoked for 44yrs so my lung capacity is but a fraction of the younger folk however that does not stop me from enjoying a decent D2L hit. I like a cooler airy vape with volume and substance. My current blend is 92% VG, 5% H2O and 3% PG.

    Yes, I also like a cooler vape, my blend is 50/50 or 65/35 PG/VG, as too much VG makes my chest tight, ECX Nic, 10mg/ml and 1.5% FA Flash (for added TH). I had been thinking of trying a TC build but have just about nixed that idea due to folks going back to Kanthal and saying that they found TC too smooth compared to the slightly rougher vape a Kanthal build gives them, plus I have come far enough along in my vaping journey that I do not experience any dry hits, and I now use Rayon, so that also has something to do with no dry hits (if I get the Rayon density right inside the coil, which I can now).

    I started out on a EVOD2 and a Spinner 2 back in Aug of 2014 at 3.6V and 1.8Ω, THAT setup got me off of Tobacco for good. After My first hit I never looked back, even though the juice I got from the store I bought the EVOD/Spinner from was Janky compared to what I now use. It got me off tobacco, I thought it tasted better compared to my Marlboro filters with the filters ripped off, go figure. I had some of that juice stored in the fridge and last month I pulled it out and gave it a whiff, man was there a Big Time chemical smell to it, no wonder it tasted Janky, that's just the way I remember it being to.

    BTW, since I put my 26650 in I now have battery door slop, side to side. Every time I pick up my Presa I can not only feel the battery door move on me, I can hear it click clack. Some thing I will work on in my spare time to find a fix for. Strange.
     

    JAY73

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    Well i picked up a tfv4 micro and the presa from 101 vapes last week spent $72 and i am totally amazed at the vape i am getting this is the best combo i have had to date and i have had a lot of setups to many to list running the single clapton 0.6Ω at 36w my ultrafire 26650 last about 10 hours which is almost all day for me so if you are on. The fence about the prese go for it this device is solid and funtions above my expectations...
     
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    GeorgeS

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    BTW, since I put my 26650 in I now have battery door slop, side to side. Every time I pick up my Presa I can not only feel the battery door move on me, I can hear it click clack. Some thing I will work on in my spare time to find a fix for. Strange.

    Ahh... so I'm not alone. I've worked around it by grabbing it different, don't notice it all that much but was using another favorite unit today.

    You ought to be 'good to go' with low power Kanthal M2L builds. On my other 26650 devices I noticed a sharp droop of battery voltage ~1/4 the way into expected battery life with +30W builds. My 3 dual 18650's are series mods and so far the Presa can last as long as they do so I'm happy with the battery life I'm getting.

    I went directly from Aspire Nautilus stuff to RTA's with TC so I don't even own any Kanthal and outside of my 3 VV devices, all I use is TC builds. I like the smoothness of the TC vape. At least for now we have choices which is good thing. ;)

    The Presa TC100 is really just a larger and heavier VTC-Mini with some oddities in how information is displayed. Someday I may switch my current tank to a Mini and see how long it will last on the Mini. Then again, I already know how long single 18650 mods last me.

    I started on the Apollo Reliant this AM and took it to work. Naturally since it has USB charging I charged it while working so when I hopped in the car I had a full charge.

    I'm thinking I may add a BLACK Presa if something else 26650 does not release before Aug 8th. Two of my duals don't have USB charging hence one of the reasons I started moving to the larger format battery.

    Cheers.
     
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    52anddone

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    I fixed my battery door wobble, just two layers of Scotch transparent tape going across the door from one side to the other stopped the movement I was experiencing.

    I like the easy fixes.

    Good Deal George, I too found the scotch tape remedy, only I cut (4) small 3mm to 4mm wide strips about 15mm long each and placed one on top of the other to get a double thickness of tape, one double thickness of tape for one side, and one double thickness of tape for the other side. Next, I took one double thickness and stuck it on the inside of the body running the length of the battery door opening just above the battery sled (where it can't be seen from the outside) right at the edge where the battery door meets the body when you put the battery door back on (I did this to both sides just above the battery sled). If you look at the battery door itself, you will see a very small lip that goes inside the body when attached (supposed to keep side to side slop of the battery door to a minimum). The tape takes up the slack in this side to side wiggle of the battery door (mine was only about 0.25mm movement on each side, but gave off an obnoxious click/clack whenever I grabbed it to vape). So in essence, I just made a sort of shim for the inside of the battery compartment with scotch tape. NO MORE Click/Clack !! (Initially I thought the click/clack might have been the fire bar side to side movement, but turned out to be the battery door instead) This was indeed an easy, and cheap, fix.

    A person could use (2) pieces on each side like I did, or (1) piece on either side, or (1) piece on one side and (2) pieces on the other side, any combination really that you need to take up any battery door slop one might have on their Presa 100TC. That kind of precision (only about 0.25mm in my case) would be very hard to achieve, as everything would have to end up almost Perfect in the manufacturing process, Molding, speed of cool down, paint thickness, any hand finishing of parts. For about $40 just how much precision can we realistically expect. I'm happy with my Presa 100w TC, that's for sure, and will prolly get a Silver one to go with my Black one.
     
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    52anddone

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    I guess i got lucky i dont have any slip/slop of batt door on my presa

    I've only had (1) RTA (left over metal shavings in the airflow channel from the machining process), and now this Presa (battery door wiggle), that weren't what I consider in good working order out of the box, but it was an easy fix for both, just took a couple minutes of my time. I consider both instances to be exceptions to the norm.
     
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    52anddone

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    Well 52anddone if my presa was a woman i would need a great divorce attorney cause i am absolutely in love with this mod. I have had many setups since i started my vape journey and hands down the presa with the tfv4 micro is the best of the best i am now so spoiled...

    I hear that I do. My Cuboid is now just sitting on the shelf, collecting dust. If I get another Presa 100 (prolly 2 more if this one stays as good as it now is) then the Cuboid will go into my "Backup" bin of Vape equipment. I really like the Presa 100's overall shape and size, and that Fire Bar feels a lot better to me than a button. Glad you like yours, you're not alone.
     

    52anddone

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    I finally drained my first New MNKE 3500 mAh 26650 battery bought from IMRbatteries.Com. The Presa counter read 2639 sec., which is more than my Cuboid gets off of (2) New 25R's (2450 average). That's at 12 watts, 1.35Ω to 1.45Ω MTL in a Taifun V2 clone with a 5ml tank on top. I had written the results down when I first got my Cuboid, so I checked my notes and was pleasantly surprised to see what the Presa did in comparison. Also, when the Presa quit vaping and gave the "Low Battery Lock" warning, I checked the voltage and found the MNKE showed 3.26v on my DMM, that coupled with a Start charge of 4.25v is very encouraging to me for BOTH the MNKE batteries, and the Presa.
     
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    AtmizrOpin

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    what battery will actually let this mod sustain 100 watts for the duration of the puff? i'm guessing a low mah high amp 18650 like the lg hb6? since 26650's have a higher internal res than the 18650. i'm playing around with a friends and with a fully charged green efest 4200 mah the max is 89 watts. i'm getting 95 for one puff with a fully charged brand new sony vtc4. curious on what you guys are running to achieve the advertised 100 watts. then i can relay the info to my buddy.
     

    Kyi

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    Whats the difference between the new 100w and the 75w besides the obvious? I have the 75w that I got around when it first released and it is one of my favorite mods. I don't really see myself upgrading for 25w more since I'm using it below 15w most of the time anyways but I would consider a future device by Wismec. They feel quality and I just love the design.
     
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    52anddone

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    Whats the difference between the new 100w and the 75w besides the obvious? I have the 75w that I got around when it first released and it is one of my favorite mods. I don't really see myself upgrading for 25w more since I'm using it below 15w most of the time anyways but I would consider a future device by Wismec. They feel quality and I just love the design.

    I run around 11-13 watts myself and got this just because it was 26650/18650, I wanted the extra battery life a 26650 would afford in a lighter, handier configuration than my Cuboid gave me. It feels very good in the hand.
     

    GeorgeS

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    Ok, on the 2nd tank full I ran actually ran it down to where the battery indicator was flashing. Terminal voltage (as measured on the mod) was 3.25V after 1546 vape timer. (I did refill the tank at about the same point as I did before, I just did not replace the battery this time)

    Currently attached to computer (current limited) USB port for charging. Measured charge current is 0.88A which is enough to have a full charge when I get home from work.
     
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    52anddone

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    Ok, on the 2nd tank full I ran actually ran it down to where the battery indicator was flashing. Terminal voltage (as measured on the mod) was 3.25V after 1546 vape timer. (I did refill the tank at about the same point as I did before, I just did not replace the battery this time)

    Currently attached to computer (current limited) USB port for charging. Measured charge current is 0.88A which is enough to have a full charge when I get home from work.

    I haven't tried to charge via USB on my Cuboid, VTC mini or Presa 100 so I don't know for sure, but, the instructions that come with all (3) mod's specify that a Full and complete charge will be given to the batteries only with an External charger like an Intellicharger, Xtar VC2 or other chargers that are made for charging these batteries, but not in the mod itself by using the USB port. I think DJLsb Vapes charged his 26650 (the Green Efest 4200) in the Presa via the USB port and got like 4.11v at Full charge. I have gotten between 4.24v/4.25v after a Full charge in my Xtar VC2, and the VC2 also shows a mAh capacity of 3536 with MNKE 3500 mAh 26650 batteries which is just above the wrapper specifications. So if you have an External battery charger, use that instead and you will get a more complete, and faster charge than charging thru the USB of the device.
     

    GeorgeS

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    Actually, that is highly dependent on what external charger you use.

    My Nicore D4 only charges at 750ma! So both the eLeaf Pico and Presa charge at a higher rate then the Nicore charger. The minor difference between 4.1 and 4.2 does not bother me much, not enough to be fiddling with swapping batteries into an external charger. The Nicore D4 does charge to 4.2v, it just takes a while.

    With the dozen or more mods laying about I usually just switch to another mod. Most (if not all) have a nearly full charge on them. For the above tests I was using an external charger, just to see what kind of battery life the 26650's have.

    With a little math we might see what kind of an impact there is. Fully charged being 4.2V and battery indicator flashing at 3.25V equates to a 0.95V swing. If we divide the 1540 run time by 0.95 we get 1621. With a 0.1V less swing we have 1540 divided by 0.85 and have ~1811. 1811/1621 = 1.11 or ~11% difference.

    However I think I need run time numbers for the USB charge so it will be a day or two.

    I might pick up one of the fancier and higher output (2A) chargers just for kicks. I need a decent charger in the RV/Camper and I can keep the fancy one at home.
     
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