Day two with the SXK Rs clone. I thought there was something wrong with the b deck so I went back to stock w deck. Still erratic resistance. The glass in the tank is too long and makes refilling with liquid very hard.
I am ready to write this off as a lemon clone.
I will mess around some more but with my URBA arriving soon this atty is going in the drawer.
Sorry to hear all that. My SXK is pretty solid. None of the issues you describe.
What do you mean the glass is too long?
I now have three Squape clones - a clone of the original Squape, the one called "Triangle Windows" on FastTech (which I never got working due to shorting), and the Ivogo and SXK SQRS clones. All of them fill the same way, which I don't like hugely - there's a tiny gap between the central chimney and the outside of the tank. I squeeze liquid down that gap, and it's such a small gap that it's easy to get it in the chimney instead. That's my least favourite thing with these clones, however watching videos I'm pretty sure the same applies to the original.
So are you saying your window glass comes down as far as the chimney?? Actually I realised I have not yet tried filling the normal SXK tank, because I got the one that comes with both normal silver and the extra red, and I fitted the red. I'll try the silver shortly. Although I did look inside both of them (Ivogo and SXK) when I got them, and my window glasses are definitely the same - I remember checking that because at first I thought the window glass was removable, before realising it's fixed. All three of my tanks have a window glass that extends to just below the triangle window cut outs - I can feel the ridge if I put a finger inside. And in fact there's a line on the outside of the tank, just below the triangle windows, which I think corresponds to where the glass comes internally.
That line is much lower than where the chimney comes to, hence the glass is nowhere near the fill point (squeezing juice between the edge of the chimney and the tank). In all my tanks - SXK silver and red; Ivogo silver - the chimney comes to just below the thread on the tank, so when I put juice in, I'm squeezing it out to just under the threading on the tank.
I will say that I mostly use 50/50 and 60% VG juice and filling is a little slow - I can see that the juice takes a moment to sink through the narrow gap, so I have to squeeze and wait, squeeze and wait. With 80-100% VG it might take a long time, but I don't have any to test with currently. And now I look again, I can see that when I hold the tank and look straight down it from above, I can see the lower edge of the window glass through the gap between the chimney and tank. So yes there could be a chokepoint there, with liquid going down the narrow gap between chimney and tank, and taking a while to then get past the window glass.
But this is the same on all of my SXK and Ivogo SQRS and my earlier Triangle Window, and therefore I'm pretty confident it's also like that on the original. Not that that helps you, but I think it's not a cloning issue - just a 'feature' of the original tank.
I am using both my Ivogo and SXK for Titanium TC and the ohms are solid. It did take me a little fiddling to get the centre post in the right position, because it can be screwed as deep or as far out as you like, and if it's too far in the former it gets no or poor connection to the mod and too far the latter it gets no or poor connection to the atty. But it only took maybe three attempts with each atty to find a position where the cold ohms on the coil seemed to be reading correctly.
I've not yet tried measuring static resistance or resistance stability. But I am getting a good TC vape off both. Using only the W deck on both so far.
You ordered yours from 3F? Maybe they're quite variable, item to item.
Did you confirm that your post is tightened down fully (one screws down, the positive I think), that your lower deck is firmly in place, and the upper deck firmly pushed down onto it? I had crazy erratic resistance on the Ivogo when my lower deck was loose due to an o-ring problem. Also have you played with the position of your 510 positive pin, which as I say has a large range of up/down movement?