New Squape Rs 1:1 clone by SXK
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I will try some extra o-ring on the 510, thank you for the tip. I went back to my Erlk, maybe I have some time tonight to try and fix it.
@roxynoodle, yes it does. Due to the material, stainless steel mesh, you are good when you do them once and they last for months. Also no problems with not enough liquid. Big chamber and enough space for big coils, open draw, which I like very much.You can reduce the airflow though.
You might try pushing the glass in a little farther - sometimes from the factory, they stuck it in there, but not all the way. Maybe look around and see if you have any kind of tubing or dowel in that diameter to push it in, or try spinning the glass around with your finger (but don't cut yourself). The erratic resistance you won't be able to fix without some kind of insulator/spacer (we went all through that with the SQR clone).
I tried. The glass is stuck in there and won't bulge. Too bad since I liked the SS look.
Since I didn't like the flavor that much is not a big deal. Did 4 different builds using cotton and rayon and lets just say I am glad I got the Erlk original and not the Squape.
Just my taste buds humble opinion.
Since I didn't like the flavor that much is not a big deal. Did 4 different builds using cotton and rayon and lets just say I am glad I got the Erlk original and not the Squape.
Just my taste buds humble opinion.
Hold tank at a 60° angle and drip the juice on the side wall. Running down alongside the threads the juice faces less resistance
to form a shallow film across the threads ultimately allowing for a nice flow through the gap. Maintaining a steady flow you can turn back the tank to a close 0°You can almost pour the juice this way.
Sir Bloke dudeness, you work a lot with TC wire, right? Would you say the SKK is temp proof (decks, pins etc)?
There seems to be two different things called Horizon. I think theyare talking about an RTA made by Shenray. I just read the description, and its certainly bizarre, lol! Fireplace, dribbling
I missed the discussion on the Horizon earlier in this thread - coincidentally I noticed it just now, literally minutes after I sent an email to a German vendor asking how the Horizon (authentic) works!
I have been looking into it for the last 24 hours.
Firstly, here's the original I'm looking at: Horizon by Vape4me | Vape4me | Verdampfer | Greek-Mods
Secondly, here's a video in German just about to show the 'straws' which I still don't fully understand.
So @Marmaduke , this method is familiar to you - it's the same as the FEV?
Can you tell me what these 'straws' are made of? do you know if they come with the tank, or are made by the user - and if so, what we make them out of? Silica, metal mesh?
EDIT: Oh I think you already answered!
OK so I need to make them myself? Any stainless steel mesh will do?
I have been wanting to splash out on a nice authentic, something I can't just get a clone of. Accordingly yesterday I bought (and today received) the Gus Phenomenon Lite, and now am looking at the Horizon, and also the Niko Vapor Giant Mini v2.5, which is more conventional and is similar to an Erlkoningenenenen. But I don't want to buy the Horizon until I understand fully how it works.
I have two Phenomenon Lites and love them.
What mesh you use is dependent on e vg percentage of your liquid. I use 110, 130 micron in my FeVs. I put 400 in my Taifun GS2 and its working great with 50/50, but maybe it won't with higher vg. I'm trying to use up the last of my NT ACB, and then I'll try it with a higher vg juice and let you know.
I know my Origenny v2 using 400 mesh isn't wicking a 70vg juice without tilting. I'm being told I shouldn't have to tilt and that its due to my using 400 mesh with 70 vg.
What mesh you use is dependent on e vg percentage of your liquid. I use 110, 130 micron in my FeVs. I put 400 in my Taifun GS2 and its working great with 50/50, but maybe it won't with higher vg. I'm trying to use up the last of my NT ACB, and then I'll try it with a higher vg juice and let you know.
I know my Origenny v2 using 400 mesh isn't wicking a 70vg juice without tilting. I'm being told I shouldn't have to tilt and that its due to my using 400 mesh with 70 vg.
So should you go finer or coarser? I vape 70VG too. Sad, I have all these gennies and have never used mesh.
Someday...
So should you go finer or coarser? I vape 70VG too. Sad, I have all these gennies and have never used mesh.
Apparently courser for higher vg.
Is it possible to replace the plastic window with glass? I hate hate hate plastic tanks.
@TheBloke, the Horizon doesn't come with the straws. You have to make them. It is....really hard to do!If you are able to roll bogeys between two fingers you are a winner and let's be honest, it's a man's world, you are born with the ability.
You just take two stripes of that mesh. 8-10mm x 2,5 cm just about ( sorry, I don't know in inches) roll the stripes between your fingers, perhaps around a needle, tight, and when they fit in the holes, you are done.They are supposed to rest on the cotton of your wick, so there is no need to oxidate them as there is no contact to the wire.
Singlecoil runs with two straws, then you have two screws in the other two holes to close them. If you want, you can run it with four straws for dualcoils and high watts.
Wicking is easy peasy, the chamber is big, you can do lots of different coils.Just have a look at the videos again, you'll see it is not hard to do.
That is the reason I like the B-deck of the Squape so much, you are not restricted to a certain width and hight and diameter of coils any more.
At the moment, I prefer the Rs to the R. I seem to have a problem right now to get good taste from the R. Was better before and I don't know why. The Rs with the B-deck is easier to wick for me.
Forgot about the mesh type. I have 400 ,375 and 340 or 50, there's no noticable difference for me. I think any will do.
You just take two stripes of that mesh. 8-10mm x 2,5 cm just about ( sorry, I don't know in inches) roll the stripes between your fingers, perhaps around a needle, tight, and when they fit in the holes, you are done.They are supposed to rest on the cotton of your wick, so there is no need to oxidate them as there is no contact to the wire.
Singlecoil runs with two straws, then you have two screws in the other two holes to close them. If you want, you can run it with four straws for dualcoils and high watts.
Wicking is easy peasy, the chamber is big, you can do lots of different coils.Just have a look at the videos again, you'll see it is not hard to do.
That is the reason I like the B-deck of the Squape so much, you are not restricted to a certain width and hight and diameter of coils any more.
At the moment, I prefer the Rs to the R. I seem to have a problem right now to get good taste from the R. Was better before and I don't know why. The Rs with the B-deck is easier to wick for me.
Forgot about the mesh type. I have 400 ,375 and 340 or 50, there's no noticable difference for me. I think any will do.
Yes, they're available at FT: $1.26 Replacement Glass Tank for Triangle Windows RTA at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
OK thanks @roxynoodle and @Marmaduke ! That's perfect, answering 100% of the questions I earlier emailed to Greek Mods
Actually all questions but one! On the deck, there is one more hole - with a metal pole sticking out of it. Here is a screen capture:
What is that metal pole at the top, between the top straw and the screw on the top right? It appears to be part of the top cap.
Most importantly - Marmaduke, you like your Horizon? It is worth the (fairly high) price?
Actually all questions but one! On the deck, there is one more hole - with a metal pole sticking out of it. Here is a screen capture:
What is that metal pole at the top, between the top straw and the screw on the top right? It appears to be part of the top cap.
Most importantly - Marmaduke, you like your Horizon? It is worth the (fairly high) price?
Well,I don't have it yet. As you can read further up on this page, I ordered it at focalecig,so it's a clone. Sorry, so I can't refer to a high rice being justified or not.
What I know from two big German forums is that people who bought the original are really happy with it and don't regret paying for it.
This pin you mentioned is there to prevent that disc, or whatever it is, from turning. So the straws stay in the chosen positon. At least that is what I have read in a discussion about it in a forum. This disc is only sort of clicked in there and held in place by an Oring. You can take it out. But as I don't have it here, it's all theory so far.
I am going to watch some reviews, then I'll know for sure.
What I know from two big German forums is that people who bought the original are really happy with it and don't regret paying for it.
This pin you mentioned is there to prevent that disc, or whatever it is, from turning. So the straws stay in the chosen positon. At least that is what I have read in a discussion about it in a forum. This disc is only sort of clicked in there and held in place by an Oring. You can take it out. But as I don't have it here, it's all theory so far.
I am going to watch some reviews, then I'll know for sure.
News from your video link. I just watched it and the fellow says the pin is used to remove the plate or disc easier. Before this pin was there, in a beta version, they poked in the air hole with a screwdriver or something similar to get it out.
There is so much to learn in the internet. Let's put it that way- you need that pin.
There is so much to learn in the internet.
Let's put it that way- you need that pin.
Right, back to the SQRS. I got sidetracked by buying three more atomizers in the time since I got the two SQRS'. What can I say, I'm an addict.
I'll try and do an item by item comparison tomorrow. For now I'll say that the SXK is working well for me. None of the problems @smokewell has experienced, except perhaps the filling issue - though using @cindycated 's method of pouring straight onto the threads it's not bad. I only use 50/50 and 60/40 juice and I can see it could be a lot worse with 80-100 VG. But tomorrow I will receive a Twelve Monkeys juice pack which is 70, 80 and 90% VG, so I will find out more then.
The Ivogo is a different story. As I'll explain tomorrow, aesthetically it's a bit better than the SXK. Its achilles heel though is resistance. In fact I have, or rather had, the exact resistance problem on the Ivogo that @smokewell describes for the SXK.
Fortunately I have fixed it, and it's not too hard for anyone to do so. I've had to kludge mine together for now but I've ordered stuff from eBay to do it more properly next week.
When I get my supplies for a proper fix I will also check the SXK, as it might provide value there even though currently I seem to have an OK resistance.
When I first got the tanks I described the the Ivogo central pin as being a fraction shorter than the SXK. It is, but it's a tiny tiny difference. The SXK pin is 15.23mm long, the Ivogo 15.10mm. This difference seems so little as to be insignificant. But either it's just enough to be significant, or else internally the Ivogo is slightly different such that it actually needs a longer pin - but has a shorter one.
Either way, the solution is pretty simple. Both the SXK and Ivogo (and presumably the authentic) use an M3 machine screw as its positive pin. They can therefore be fairly easily replaced with an alternative that is longer and thus forms a better connection. A second benefit is that the screw can be brass and the head can be much bigger than the paltry head on the SXK and Ivogo positive pins - both further ensuring a solid connection with potentially lower Static Resistance.
Based on the provided lengths of 15.10 - 15.23mm, and my testing of my temporary solution, I believe an M3x16mm screw with countersunk head could be enough, or failing that a 20mm screw cut down to 16.5-17mm total length.
I have ordered several countersunk screws in both stainless steel and brass of M3 x 16mm and 20mm. Countersunk head is key so as to ensure the head doesn't stick out too much and will fit. I chose slotted heads to maximise the surface area that will be in contact with the mod's positive pin.
Here's a couple of examples from UK eBay - Brass M3x16mm countersunk; Stainless M3x16mm countersunk.
In the meantime, I have cobbled something together. I already had two types of M3 screws - stainless steel 12mm, and countersunk brass 6mm. I cut the head off the 12mm screw and soldered it to the brass screw.
It ain't pretty, but it gets the job done. It's the Frankenscrew.
My joining of a 12mm with a 6mm, minus the head of the 12mm, gave a resulting positive pin around 16.75mm long. Hence my not being sure if M3x16mm will be quite long enough for the proper replacement, or if I'll need to cut down an M3x20mm. But I have some hope that a 16mm will be just enough, as my current screw does stick out a little more from the atomizer base than it needs to. If I do need to cut down a 20mm this is easy enough to do with a hacksaw.
My coil that was reading, variably, 0.52Ω- 0.56Ω is now reading 0.459Ω on my SX Mini M. Measuring that same coil using my four-wire ohm reader, one clip attached to each deck screw, gave me a reading around 0.450Ω. Therefore throughout the atomizer there is a static resistance of about 0.009Ω. I've seen lower Static Resistance in tanks but not by much, and 0.009Ω is perfectly usable for Titanium and Ni200 TC. Indeed it is a lot better than what many atomizers are giving and therefore what many people get in real usage. (A Kayfun v4 without the third party Spring Update can change its resistance by 0.05Ω - 5 times more - with a tiny jog on the juice control.)
A note on insulation: unfortunately I lost/misplaced the original Ivogo insulator, and in any case I wasn't sure if it would work on the new screw head, so rather than getting a spare I made a new one. I will try the original o-ring insulator when I replace my Frankenscrew with a hopefully better one from my new brass M3x16 or 20mm screws.
I started out trying a single o-ring (of similar but not same size as original Ivogo o-ring) but that shorted. Then I tried a section of silicone insulator cut from a wire which also shorted. Then I tried both together, and that worked. No doubt a cleaner, single piece solution will be easy to find and I'll try again when I get my proper screws. I might order some of those Kayfun insulators that @roxynoodle mentioned, as they sound good to have just in general as well as trying them for this.
Here's the fix in pictures:
Bottom: the Frankenscrew; above it, the original screw. Top: examples of the M3x12mm stainless screw and M3x6mm countersunk brass screw which were soldered to make the Frankenscrew.
Insulation: a small section of silicone insulator cut from 14 gauge wire
Screwed in most of the way, with added o-ring because insulator wasn't enough to prevent shorting
Complete - not completely straight, because of non perfect soldering; the black o-ring is very slightly squeezed out on one side. It screws down OK though on two mods that I've tried.
I'll try and do an item by item comparison tomorrow. For now I'll say that the SXK is working well for me. None of the problems @smokewell has experienced, except perhaps the filling issue - though using @cindycated 's method of pouring straight onto the threads it's not bad. I only use 50/50 and 60/40 juice and I can see it could be a lot worse with 80-100 VG. But tomorrow I will receive a Twelve Monkeys juice pack which is 70, 80 and 90% VG, so I will find out more then.
The Ivogo is a different story. As I'll explain tomorrow, aesthetically it's a bit better than the SXK. Its achilles heel though is resistance. In fact I have, or rather had, the exact resistance problem on the Ivogo that @smokewell describes for the SXK.
Fortunately I have fixed it, and it's not too hard for anyone to do so. I've had to kludge mine together for now but I've ordered stuff from eBay to do it more properly next week.
When I get my supplies for a proper fix I will also check the SXK, as it might provide value there even though currently I seem to have an OK resistance.
When I first got the tanks I described the the Ivogo central pin as being a fraction shorter than the SXK. It is, but it's a tiny tiny difference. The SXK pin is 15.23mm long, the Ivogo 15.10mm. This difference seems so little as to be insignificant. But either it's just enough to be significant, or else internally the Ivogo is slightly different such that it actually needs a longer pin - but has a shorter one.
Either way, the solution is pretty simple. Both the SXK and Ivogo (and presumably the authentic) use an M3 machine screw as its positive pin. They can therefore be fairly easily replaced with an alternative that is longer and thus forms a better connection. A second benefit is that the screw can be brass and the head can be much bigger than the paltry head on the SXK and Ivogo positive pins - both further ensuring a solid connection with potentially lower Static Resistance.
Based on the provided lengths of 15.10 - 15.23mm, and my testing of my temporary solution, I believe an M3x16mm screw with countersunk head could be enough, or failing that a 20mm screw cut down to 16.5-17mm total length.
I have ordered several countersunk screws in both stainless steel and brass of M3 x 16mm and 20mm. Countersunk head is key so as to ensure the head doesn't stick out too much and will fit. I chose slotted heads to maximise the surface area that will be in contact with the mod's positive pin.
Here's a couple of examples from UK eBay - Brass M3x16mm countersunk; Stainless M3x16mm countersunk.
In the meantime, I have cobbled something together. I already had two types of M3 screws - stainless steel 12mm, and countersunk brass 6mm. I cut the head off the 12mm screw and soldered it to the brass screw.
It ain't pretty, but it gets the job done. It's the Frankenscrew.
My joining of a 12mm with a 6mm, minus the head of the 12mm, gave a resulting positive pin around 16.75mm long. Hence my not being sure if M3x16mm will be quite long enough for the proper replacement, or if I'll need to cut down an M3x20mm. But I have some hope that a 16mm will be just enough, as my current screw does stick out a little more from the atomizer base than it needs to. If I do need to cut down a 20mm this is easy enough to do with a hacksaw.
My coil that was reading, variably, 0.52Ω- 0.56Ω is now reading 0.459Ω on my SX Mini M. Measuring that same coil using my four-wire ohm reader, one clip attached to each deck screw, gave me a reading around 0.450Ω. Therefore throughout the atomizer there is a static resistance of about 0.009Ω. I've seen lower Static Resistance in tanks but not by much, and 0.009Ω is perfectly usable for Titanium and Ni200 TC. Indeed it is a lot better than what many atomizers are giving and therefore what many people get in real usage. (A Kayfun v4 without the third party Spring Update can change its resistance by 0.05Ω - 5 times more - with a tiny jog on the juice control.)
A note on insulation: unfortunately I lost/misplaced the original Ivogo insulator, and in any case I wasn't sure if it would work on the new screw head, so rather than getting a spare I made a new one. I will try the original o-ring insulator when I replace my Frankenscrew with a hopefully better one from my new brass M3x16 or 20mm screws.
I started out trying a single o-ring (of similar but not same size as original Ivogo o-ring) but that shorted. Then I tried a section of silicone insulator cut from a wire which also shorted. Then I tried both together, and that worked. No doubt a cleaner, single piece solution will be easy to find and I'll try again when I get my proper screws. I might order some of those Kayfun insulators that @roxynoodle mentioned, as they sound good to have just in general as well as trying them for this.
Here's the fix in pictures:
Bottom: the Frankenscrew; above it, the original screw. Top: examples of the M3x12mm stainless screw and M3x6mm countersunk brass screw which were soldered to make the Frankenscrew.
Insulation: a small section of silicone insulator cut from 14 gauge wire
Screwed in most of the way, with added o-ring because insulator wasn't enough to prevent shorting
Complete - not completely straight, because of non perfect soldering; the black o-ring is very slightly squeezed out on one side. It screws down OK though on two mods that I've tried.
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@roxynoodle , does this all sound familiar? 
@inswva did a similar fix to his SQR, but I can't remember what he used as an insulator, nor can I find the pic that he posted.
The only thing that worries me about the silicone you're using is that the silicone will get squishy, allowing the pin to get pushed in during use, so watch out for a hard short - that's why I don't use regular o-rings down there. Amazon sells 3/16"OD teflon o-rings that are more rigid and might work better. Roxy also carved one out of a delrin tube from Fat Daddy's, so that might be another way to go. I used a KF 510 insulator + a small nylon washer, and was able to catch enough threads with the original pin. My pin sticks out by just a little shy of 1mm, a little more than 0.5mm.
I do fill that way (tilt about 30°, pour onto the threads with my unicorn bottle, move the bottle back and forth to avoid surface tension), but I don't think I can take credit for mentioning it. I think somebody beat me to it. I was needle-filling at first and that drove me absolutely crazy!
@inswva did a similar fix to his SQR, but I can't remember what he used as an insulator, nor can I find the pic that he posted.
The only thing that worries me about the silicone you're using is that the silicone will get squishy, allowing the pin to get pushed in during use, so watch out for a hard short - that's why I don't use regular o-rings down there. Amazon sells 3/16"OD teflon o-rings that are more rigid and might work better. Roxy also carved one out of a delrin tube from Fat Daddy's, so that might be another way to go. I used a KF 510 insulator + a small nylon washer, and was able to catch enough threads with the original pin. My pin sticks out by just a little shy of 1mm, a little more than 0.5mm.
I do fill that way (tilt about 30°, pour onto the threads with my unicorn bottle, move the bottle back and forth to avoid surface tension), but I don't think I can take credit for mentioning it. I think somebody beat me to it.
I was needle-filling at first and that drove me absolutely crazy! - Status
