New Squape Rs 1:1 clone by SXK

[TheBloke]

OK great, thanks. And sorry it was you who mentioned the KF insulator, not roxy! Mis-attribution!

Good point re the silicone, I will keep an eye on that. I just double checked and it's pretty firm - I had to tighten the screw very hard down onto the silicone + o-ring sandwich, and pushing on it now I can't notice any give at all. But that could change over time I suppose.

I'll try and do something better for the permanent solution when I get my longer screws. I've seen PEEK insulation sheets on eBay, maybe that'd be another option to consider.

 

[TheBloke]

Oh, and Cindy mentioning the SQR just gave me a sudden jolt - I've got an SQR clone sitting right over there! Where it's been for two months since I had shorting problems and tried to fix one of the extra, non-fitting decks with a Dremel and got it jammed on and couldn't get it off and then gave it up as useless and dead.

But then I suddenly thought that I should have just checked that pin first! So I just checked its positive pin - M3 screw, 16mm long. Seemingly perfect.

But I tried it and the head is too wide. The 510 connector on the SXK and Ivogo SQRS' have a thicker surround than my SQR clone, reducing the inner diameter of the positive hole. The head on the SQR positive pin is near enough the same diameter as the hole in the SQRS 510, such that it can't even be screwed in all the way, let alone have an insulator around the head. I think shorting might be avoidable with an insulator underneath the head, kind of like I'm doing on my Frankenscrew, but the head is a block 3mm tall which would thus stick out really far from the 510 and I think make it unusable on most mods.

Oh well, the good news is it seems to confirm 16mm as a suitable length. So I'm hopeful I can use a brass M3x16mm with a single insulator underneath/around the head.

 

[cindycated]

Oh, and Cindy mentioning the SQR just gave me a sudden jolt - I've got an SQR clone sitting right over there! Where it's been for two months since I had shorting problems and tried to fix one of the extra, non-fitting decks with a Dremel and got it jammed on and couldn't get it off and then gave it up as useless and dead.

But then I suddenly thought that I should have just checked that pin first! So I just checked its positive pin - M3 screw, 16mm long. Seemingly perfect.

But I tried it and the head is too wide. The 510 connector on the SXK and Ivogo SQRS' have a thicker surround than my SQR clone, reducing the inner diameter of the positive hole. The head on the SQR positive pin is near enough the same diameter as the hole in the SQRS 510, such that it can't even be screwed in all the way, let alone have an insulator around the head. I think shorting might be avoidable with an insulator underneath the head, kind of like I'm doing on my Frankenscrew, but the head is a block 3mm tall which would thus stick out really far from the 510 and I think make it unusable on most mods.

Oh well, the good news is it seems to confirm 16mm as a suitable length. So I'm hopeful I can use a brass M3x16mm with a single insulator underneath/around the head.

16mm was the conclusion we came to when we were all scratching our heads trying to figure it out on the SQR.

 

[roxynoodle]

Lol! Oh, no, Chuckie has risen again in another incarnation!

Yes I made one from a delrin blank. It worked very well for me until the whole W deck crashed due to the crummy coating. I couldn't keep a coil from shorting on it for more than 24 hours, and then I threw in the towel.

Ivogo just needs to give up!

 

[TheBloke]

Who/what/why is Chuckie?? I keep seeing you mention him/it and I have not managed to work out what it is Unless you named your Ivogo?

 

[TheBloke]

I will say that besides the fail on the positive pin, the rest of the Ivogo SQRS so far appears to be great And slightly better than the SXK in some respects, eg the SQ engraving is perfect where SXK's is a bit chunky and poorly defined. Definitely not a 1:1 on the engraving on the SXK, where the Ivogo probably is.

Not that I should be applauding better logo replication I suppose But it is objectively a better quality engraving.

EDIT: Although I somehow managed to forget that out of the box I had a broken o-ring on the Ivogo as well! So yeah it definnitely has been a lot more troublesome than the SXK. But after fixing the o-ring and the positive pin, the rest appears to be great

 

[roxynoodle]

Who/what/why is Chuckie?? I keep seeing you mention him/it and I have not managed to work out what it is Unless you named your Ivogo?

Yes, Chuckie is my demonic Ivogo SqR. He looks great, too, but he's evil incarnate.

 

[inswva]

@roxynoodle , does this all sound familiar?
@inswva did a similar fix to his SQR, but I can't remember what he used as an insulator, nor can I find the pic that he posted.
The only thing that worries me about the silicone you're using is that the silicone will get squishy, allowing the pin to get pushed in during use, so watch out for a hard short - that's why I don't use regular o-rings down there. Amazon sells 3/16"OD teflon o-rings that are more rigid and might work better. Roxy also carved one out of a delrin tube from Fat Daddy's, so that might be another way to go. I used a KF 510 insulator + a small nylon washer, and was able to catch enough threads with the original pin. My pin sticks out by just a little shy of 1mm, a little more than 0.5mm.

I do fill that way (tilt about 30°, pour onto the threads with my unicorn bottle, move the bottle back and forth to avoid surface tension), but I don't think I can take credit for mentioning it. I think somebody beat me to it. I was needle-filling at first and that drove me absolutely crazy!

I can't remember what I used. It was an insulator I pulled out of some kind of old clearo coil head... Nautilus BVC maybe. I tried very hard to not remember anything about that Ivogo SqR clone. What a piece of junk. I eventually bought the authentic and tossed the Ivogo in the trash.

edit: I found this pic... I'm pretty sure it was a BVC insulator.

 

[TheBloke]

Right I got the first of my screws. The M3x16mm works perfectly. I only got my stainless steel version so far, so I'll replace it with the brass ones when they come.

When I put the new screw in I just used silicone insulation again, and this time I didn't need an o-ring. I just pulled the insulation up right under the countersunk head and then screwed down hard. I will bear in mind what Cindy said regarding compression of the silicone, and see if I can put something better in for the brass screws.

I've done some experimenting with compatibility of components from SXK to Ivogo and will post that up later today.

One other quick thing: the Ivogo comes with a bell cap. This completely solves the filling problems; there's a much bigger gap between chimney and tank, and no separate window in the way.

Unfortunately I think it looks like crap - the exposed grey deck, o-ring and threading at the bottom looks pretty industrial - but at least it can take any juice

 

[cindycated]

Right I got the first of my screws. The M3x16mm works perfectly. I only got my stainless steel version so far, so I'll replace it with the brass ones when they come.

When I put the new screw in I just used silicone insulation again, and this time I didn't need an o-ring. I just pulled the insulation up right under the countersunk head and then screwed down hard. I will bear in mind what Cindy said regarding compression of the silicone, and see if I can put something better in for the brass screws.

I've done some experimenting with compatibility of components from SXK to Ivogo and will post that up later today.

One other quick thing: the Ivogo comes with a bell cap. This completely solves the filling problems; there's a much bigger gap between chimney and tank, and no separate window in the way.

Unfortunately I think it looks like crap - the exposed grey deck, o-ring and threading at the bottom looks pretty industrial - but at least it can take any juice

Thanks for posting that pic of the bell cap.

 

[TheBloke]

I have a sickness, it can't be stopped

That's from www.digitalsteam.de. Couldn't resist trying out that Horizon, and while I was there I wanted to try the Erlkonigin-a-like Vapor Giant Mini.

I have two Phenomenon Lites and love them.

What mesh you use is dependent on e vg percentage of your liquid. I use 110, 130 micron in my FeVs. I put 400 in my Taifun GS2 and its working great with 50/50, but maybe it won't with higher vg. I'm trying to use up the last of my NT ACB, and then I'll try it with a higher vg juice and let you know.

I know my Origenny v2 using 400 mesh isn't wicking a 70vg juice without tilting. I'm being told I shouldn't have to tilt and that its due to my using 400 mesh with 70 vg.

I mostly use 50 and 60%, but recently got five x 30ml bottles which are 70, 80 and 90% VG. Do you think there's one type of mesh that would work with all of 50-90%? Or would mesh suitable for 90% flood with 50%?

Secondly I'm a bit confused about the mesh. I assumed I would get my mesh from Vape Atomizer Mesh in the UK, the sister company of Crazy Wire the supplier of most of my wire. Here's their selection: http://www.vape-atomizer-mesh.com/products/superfine_micron_mesh.html

I see '400' as in [HASHTAG]#400[/HASHTAG]. Then in terms of microns, there seem to be two numbers. The wire itself is given in microns, and that's in the range 20 - 50. But then it lists the aperture as well, with a number such as 50 - 99 microns.

Eg this is a [HASHTAG]#300[/HASHTAG], with 30 micron wire and a 55 micron aperture: http://www.vape-atomizer-mesh.com/products/300-030mm-30micron-316-marine-vape-mesh-250mm-2401.html

Could you help me choose one or more suitable for 50 - 90% VG?

 

[roxynoodle]

I have a sickness, it can't be stopped

View attachment 482893

That's from www.digitalsteam.de. Couldn't resist trying out that Horizon, and while I was there I wanted to try the Erlkonigin-a-like Vapor Giant Mini.



I mostly use 50 and 60%, but recently got five x 30ml bottles which are 70, 80 and 90% VG. Do you think there's one type of mesh that would work with all of 50-90%? Or would mesh suitable for 90% flood with 50%?

Secondly I'm a bit confused about the mesh. I assumed I would get my mesh from Vape Atomizer Mesh in the UK, the sister company of Crazy Wire the supplier of most of my wire. Here's their selection: http://www.vape-atomizer-mesh.com/products/superfine_micron_mesh.html

I see '400' as in [HASHTAG]#400[/HASHTAG]. Then in terms of microns, there seem to be two numbers. The wire itself is given in microns, and that's in the range 20 - 50. But then it lists the aperture as well, with a number such as 50 - 99 microns.

Eg this is a [HASHTAG]#300[/HASHTAG], with 30 micron wire and a 55 micron aperture: http://www.vape-atomizer-mesh.com/products/300-030mm-30micron-316-marine-vape-mesh-250mm-2401.html

Could you help me choose one or more suitable for 50 - 90% VG?

I'm definitely not a mesh expert.

I used 110, 130 micron in my Flash e Vapors. I used both a 50vg and a70vg liquids,and they seemed fine.

I put 400 in my TGS2 and its fine with a 50vg liquid. I haven't yet tried a higher vg so I don't know if it will be ok or not.

I suppose you could try something in between ?

 

[TheBloke]

I'm definitely not a mesh expert.

I used 110, 130 micron in my Flash e Vapors. I used both a 50vg and a70vg liquids,and they seemed fine.

I put 400 in my TGS2 and its fine with a 50vg liquid. I haven't yet tried a higher vg so I don't know if it will be ok or not.

I suppose you could try something in between ?

OK but what does 110 and 130 micron mean? Is one number the wire and the other the aperture? The highest aperture I can find on the site I'm looking at is 99 and the wire only seems to go up to 50, so maybe I need to find a different site.

And '400' means [HASHTAG]#400[/HASHTAG] as I see it on the site? Do you know if there's a # number for 110,130?

 

[TheBloke]

Or would you by chance have a link to the meshes you have bought?

 

[roxynoodle]

This is the 110:

 110 Mesh 130 Micron  woven Wire Mesh Stainless Steel Filtration  grade 316T | eBay

I don't remember who I bought the 400 from. I had bought it for a genny.

 

[TheBloke]

OK thanks a lot, I get it now. 110 is the mesh number, so that's [HASHTAG]#110[/HASHTAG]. That's the number of strands per inch. The second number 130 is the aperture, 130 microns of open space between strands.

So Vape Atomizer Mesh in the UK only goes down to 200, and so doesn't seem to have anything coarse enough for thick liquid.

I'm going to get some 200 and 400 from Vape Atomizer Mesh, and then order a sheet from eBay. I can't find any 110,130 - only 80,140 or 120,99. It's hugely expensive on eBay, £10 / $15 a sheet! So I think I will get 80,140 as that is closest in aperture. There's some Vape Atomizer Mesh that is 200,99 so I'll get that as well so I have one that's closest in terms of aperture. far cheaper from there so I can try a few from there.

 

[archimede]

TheBloke, I was used to use SS316 400 Mesh from vape mesh company for my Taifun GT. I was generally using %90 VG juice. There was no problem.
Here is the link of the mesh i bought: http://www.vape-atomizer-mesh.com/products/-400---30-Micron-or-48-AWG---Vape-Mesh.html

 

[TheBloke]

Oh, that's great, thank you @archimede !

I already ordered the 80,140 from eBay but maybe I won't need it. I am going to order 200, 300 and 400 from Vape Atomizer Mesh. If you found 400 fine with 90% VG then surely at least 200 will work.

I will order all of them and find out.

Thanks again!

 

[archimede]

Oh, that's great, thank you @archimede !

I already ordered the 80,120 from eBay but maybe I won't need it. I am going to order 200, 300 and 400 from Vape Atomizer Mesh. If you found 400 fine with 90% VG then surely at least 200 will work.

I will order all of them and find out.

Thanks again!

You are very welcome The Bloke.
I had ordered 200, too and did not like the peformance. Of course you better try them all and find out the best for you but keep in mind that all my 200 sheets are in my closet for more than a year

 

[TheBloke]

Ah OK, thanks. In what respect did you not like the performance of 200? It did not wick well/dry hits?