New Sub Ohm Reo Grand cuts it in Sub Ohm Vaping

[niczgreat]

The .28 was too hot on the REO Grand so I switched to a 4-3 Wrap and .39 Ohms

Pic 1 .39 Ohms


Pic 2 4.2V


Pic 3 First time I fired it hit 3.8V but this pic shows 3.76


By the way this was a excellent vape.

Another thing to note, the higher your Atomizer Ohms, the less Voltage drop you'll see. I'd predict at .6Ohms you'll see less then a .20v drop.

 

[niczgreat]

Just for conversation sake I'll throw in my

The real world voltage drop on both of my Grands is on average .22 volts. The voltage drop on my Mini 2.0 is roughly .35 volts. All three are modded with brass shims around the hot spring (I know, that makes the hot spring a moot point) and brass firing pins I made, I test with the same .65 ohm coil on the same RM 2. I am super happy with the performance of all three of my Reos, it just took a little tweaking, which is fine by me.

I'm in 100% agreement with you. Your testing is right in line with my results.

 

[SavePaperVapor]

Now, if we could get a rm2 with a copper pin....

 

[SeaNap]

I've done a fuse mod [30AMP Fuse] to the REO and the only change I can think of that would be easy is to replace the fuse with pure brass.

Hey Tom, I just wanted to chime in here and let you know that your 30A fuse is not the correct optimal fuse you should be using. I worked with pdib a while back to develop the best fuse that allows you to vape at your desired watts but at the same time has a quick response time to protect against shorts, its a total balancing act. I'm not sure if you sacraficed a 30A to test for the short circuit protection but in my findings and according to the trip curves of the fuses the 30A blade fuse (car fuse) was too slow to best protect against shots.

I know you have the VTC5's which are awesome batts and can handle high drain, and the 30A will eventually pop under a short, but the time it takes to pop really stresses the battery. I am not saying that the battery will explode in some apocolyptic fire ball, but it will hurt the cells and you will see a decrease in the overall life of your batteries (the ones exposed to a short)

With a .28ohm coil a 15A fuse is perfect. (zmauls runs .20 all day with a 15A)
With a .39ohm coil a 10A fuse will work just fine (I run .42 all day with a 10A)

There have been people who used a brass shim to bypass the spring. They would leave the stock spring (or fuse mod) in for the initial coil build, and once confirmed to be ok (aka no shorts) they would run that for a while untill they could feel the vdrop then put in the brass shim as sort of a turbo charger and continue vaping with the shim bypass. And of course you could always just use a brass shim bypass but i just want to make it known that there will be NO protection. Some people are ok with that, and I certainly have nothing against that, but I cannot recommend anybody running unprotected who doesn't understand the risks.

PS I would love to see the mod that has 4.0V under load of a .28ohm coil, was it a BF? I know pdibs BF mod is measureably better than the new REO, but I dont think its a 0ohm mod. The absolute best you can do is around 4.02V under load given that the mod has 0 ohm internal resistance and your battery has 0.012ohm internal resistance (the VTC5's have ~0.012ohm according to their tech specs and most batteries have .03 -.08ohm). The REO is not absolutely perfect, but it only has about 0.02 - 0.03 resistance, which is not bad, and much needed improvement.

 

[super_X_drifter]

thanks for the reply tomzgreat.

to those who think i'm trolling, go through my post history and see if i've ever trolled anyone.

i was being very serious when i said that it has a horrible voltage drop.

my daily setup is a 0.35 ohm build. i want to get the best out of my battery as much as possible. If I wanted a similar hit with a .25-.4V drop, I'd have to build my coils even lower and sacrifice more battery life than i already am. most mechanical mods that are released these days have less than 0.1 voltage drop at a 13A current according to jkuro's voltage drop tests.

of course, this won't matter to a lot of people, but to me, it does. reos offer a lot of awesome features that are perfect for a lot of people. i'm not debating that at all. however, the voltage drop is definitely a negative in terms of performance.

My bad bro. I thought you were just trying to ruffle feathers. My apologies.

But yes, my voltage drop readings were taken with AW IMR18650 1600mah,a wicked and juiced 1.3 ohm coil on a SS cyclone RBA. I got .21 total - that's mod, battery and coil resistance from 4.19 battery to 3.98 at the posts on the RBA. Damn respectable numbers IMO.

I didn't test the mod itself because I'd prolly short it with my meter

But I know it's very low and definitely on par with the highest rated tubesteaks

Again, my apologies for being a deek. Peace

Here's my little video on it
http://youtu.be/21rfLN07o80

 

[niczgreat]

Hey Tom, I just wanted to chime in here and let you know that your 30A fuse is not the correct optimal fuse you should be using. I worked with pdib a while back to develop the best fuse that allows you to vape at your desired watts but at the same time has a quick response time to protect against shorts, its a total balancing act. I'm not sure if you sacraficed a 30A to test for the short circuit protection but in my findings and according to the trip curves of the fuses the 30A blade fuse (car fuse) was too slow to best protect against shots.

I know you have the VTC5's which are awesome batts and can handle high drain, and the 30A will eventually pop under a short, but the time it takes to pop really stresses the battery. I am not saying that the battery will explode in some apocolyptic fire ball, but it will hurt the cells and you will see a decrease in the overall life of your batteries (the ones exposed to a short)

With a .28ohm coil a 15A fuse is perfect. (zmauls runs .20 all day with a 15A)
With a .39ohm coil a 10A fuse will work just fine (I run .42 all day with a 10A)

There have been people who used a brass shim to bypass the spring. They would leave the stock spring (or fuse mod) in for the initial coil build, and once confirmed to be ok (aka no shorts) they would run that for a while untill they could feel the vdrop then put in the brass shim as sort of a turbo charger and continue vaping with the shim bypass. And of course you could always just use a brass shim bypass but i just want to make it known that there will be NO protection. Some people are ok with that, and I certainly have nothing against that, but I cannot recommend anybody running unprotected who doesn't understand the risks.

PS I would love to see the mod that has 4.0V under load of a .28ohm coil, was it a BF? I know pdibs BF mod is measureably better than the new REO, but I dont think its a 0ohm mod. The absolute best you can do is around 4.02V under load given that the mod has 0 ohm internal resistance and your battery has 0.012ohm internal resistance (the VTC5's have ~0.012ohm according to their tech specs and most batteries have .03 -.08ohm). The REO is not absolutely perfect, but it only has about 0.02 - 0.03 resistance, which is not bad, and much needed improvement.

I got the assorted pack of fuses.

I found the 10amp fuse was same as REO Spring
and the higher I went the less resistance.

I don't give a hoot about batteries and I don't short very often. So I'm willing to chuck a battery here or there.

It intrigued me to make my own spring. Yes, no protection so I don't suggest that others do this.

I bought pure copper wire at home depot and coiled up a spring while I was waiting for Dorman 85613 Disconnect Piggyback
Then I bended the dorman over on itself and made it into a spring and it was as .03 higher then the copper one I made. So I'm sticking with it.
The mod that was at 4.0 on a .4 or .6 Ohm RBA [Cant' remember exactly] was an Indian Mod [India] mod that I encountered at Vaping convention in Las Vegas. The guy said his was the best, and I said OK and pulled out my handy dandy volt meter. Sure enough his was the best. It had a name like the Krishna and was a tube rocket. If I remember correctly, he was using Gold plated Connectors.

 

[SeaNap]

Right on, I figured it was better to say something than nothing. The 10A is miles better than the original REO spring, and it's only slightly better than the new gold spring (but really we're splitting hairs here).

As with anything in life there is a give and take. If one wants a protected mech (spring or fuse) it will add resistance. If one wants the lowest vdrop possible you sacrifice protection. It's all personal preference.

There was a guy on here, dhomes, who lived in South America (or central?) and was able to silver plate every single contact in his REO, and he built a solid silver plated standoff to replace the spring. Where he lived the silver plating cost him no more than $10 USD. He had amazing results with this set up.

 

[Tbev]

Pdib knows what's up hes got a lot of time and brain power in building mods, he's the man

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk