New to vaping, maybe some help?

[PicoDeMiko]

So I've been trying to read up on Ohms law and everything I can about watts and voltage and all that jazz, but it's still a little confusing for me. I look up a lot of stuff online and it all just seems to be jumbled of words. Can anybody maybe help me with some basics? Anything would be greatly appreciated. I've only ever have regulated mods, but now I'm adventuring out and need a lot of help with info.
I just got the Koopor Plus and I have the uwell rafale on it. The coil is 0.2 ohms. I want to make sure I have the right batteries, because I've tried looking up how it all works to be safe, and I'm puzzled.
I have two IMR 18650 3000mAh batteries in there with 3.7v. It also says 35A on the battery. Is this a safe set up? Again I'm completely new to this and know nothing, so no judgment please. If this is/isn't safe, can someone also explain why?
Thank you for reading and to anyone who responds!

 

[Grimwald]

First question...what is the brand of battery (Efest, Sony, HG, AW)?

 

[Dextrose]

Welcome @PicoDeMiko to ECF as grimwald mentiond if we had the brand of batt we would be able to better tell

 

[B2L]

Yes, battery type is a huge factor. From what you've said, they are fudging the safe continuous output amperage on your batteries. Sounds like efest. There are no 35 amp 18650s and the closest, at 30 amp, are only 1500 mah. You probably have, at best, 20 amp batteries. Could be as low as 10-15.

Ohm's law Is a great site for vaping calculators.

 

[Elvensilvan]

+1 to @Grimwald

and just to add, what color are the battery wraps?

the reason why we ask is that there are batteries out there that claim to be 35A, but are actually 20 ... also, there are battery "re-wraps" where companies just change the wrapper, and claim that the batteries are "more powerful and improved!"

but anyway, since i see that you have a regulated mod, you're on the right path of having a safe vape setup!

 

[BrotherBob]

Welcome and glad you joined.
Might like to read:
18650 Battery Buying Guide for Vapor Users
15 things every LiPo battery user should know

 

[Robino1]

Best first step EVER! Come here and get educated. That is very smart.

Welcome to ECF!​

 

[Susan~S]

I have two IMR 18650 3000mAh batteries in there with 3.7v. It also says 35A on the battery.

• There are no 18650 batteries with a genuine rating over 30A!

Below is why we need to know the brand of battery you have. Once we know we can tell you what the CDR/amp (continuous discharge rating) is and maybe provide you with some "bench test" results.

There are only a few battery manufacturers in the world who make their own "cells", including LG, Samsung, Sony, Panasonic & Sanyo.

All the other brands on the market buy the second and third tier cells from those manufacturers and re-wrap them under their own brand. These are "second and/or third tier cells" which did not meet the higher standards of the original manufacturer. In order to compete with the original manufacturers' batteries (first tier), these other companies feel obligated to publish specifications which are inflated to make them appear superior to those of the original manufacturer.

I just got the Koopor Plus and I have the Uwell rafale on it. The coil is 0.2 ohms.

When using a regulated mod the resistance of the coil does not come into play in determining the amps your mod will draw.

• Calculating Battery Current Draw for a Regulated Mod

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

As others already stated, buy batteries at a decent store and get good ones that have protection built-in.

If you don't use a regulated mods that offers a lot of safety, I highly recommend it.

Temp. control is the way to go, I can't recommend it enough.

 

[PicoDeMiko]

Yes, battery type is a huge factor. From what you've said, they are fudging the safe continuous output amperage on your batteries. Sounds like efest. There are no 35 amp 18650s and the closest, at 30 amp, are only 1500 mah. You probably have, at best, 20 amp batteries. Could be as low as 10-15.

Ohm's law Is a great site for vaping calculators.

As others already stated, buy batteries at a decent store and get good ones that have protection built-in.

If you don't use a regulated mods that offers a lot of safety, I highly recommend it.

Temp. control is the way to go, I can't recommend it enough.

Do you think maybe you can give me a little info on temp control? I know my mod has it and I want to play around with it but I'm not sure what the right step for this would be. Thanks!

 

[PicoDeMiko]

Yes, battery type is a huge factor. From what you've said, they are fudging the safe continuous output amperage on your batteries. Sounds like efest. There are no 35 amp 18650s and the closest, at 30 amp, are only 1500 mah. You probably have, at best, 20 amp batteries. Could be as low as 10-15.

Ohm's law Is a great site for vaping calculators.

I was a little iffy about it saying that. The brand is Mxjo and I did buy it from a store and the owner said those are the batteries he used and highly recommends them

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

Do you think maybe you can give me a little info on temp control? I know my mod has it and I want to play around with it but I'm not sure what the right step for this would be. Thanks!

It's extremely easy...
Get the type of coils you want to try, either Nickel or Titanium (and now Stainless steel is coming out)

Set your mod to the correct mode, Ni for example.

Check what the wattage range is for the coil, set it, I'd recommend to start in mid-range, so if it says that it's good up to 80W, start at 35-40W.

Then your mod should indicate the temperature set, start at around 400 F is usually a good setting.

Then take a slow gentle pull (but make sure that your coil has been winked properly first and is saturated correctly) and see what you get... if no vape/cloud, not any warmth, increase the temperature a bit at a time.

Eventually you'll find your preference, and once set, for that coil until time to switch it, your vaping will be stable. You won't get a sudden super hot pull that can happen after a few pulls at Watt mode.

Temp. control means that (done right) you'll not get any dry hits, and every time you use it, it'll be set to give you the same experience, no guessing, no bad surprises.. the coils last longer, it adds a bit of life to the battery, and so on.

Lastly, note that each liquid can have their own "sweet spot", so some liquids need higher temperatures, others, lower. And all that you need to adjust to how you like it.

Myself, I go with 45-50 Watts, sometimes I find some liquids work better at 35... it depends on if you hear any popping and such. (but I rebuild my coils, so if something's a tiny bit off like the distance between the rolls, I can get a bit of popping, especially when new), and can go anywhere from 430 to 580 F... the older and worn the coil is (as it gums up), you may need to increase the temp. up to compensate a bit.

 

[Susan~S]

I was a little iffy about it saying that. The brand is Mxjo and I did buy it from a store and the owner said those are the batteries he used and highly recommends them

Here are the bench test results on the 3000 mAh MXJO batteries. Look at your top cap to determine which one you have.

• MXJO 35A 3000mAh 3-Leg Top Cap 18650 Bench Test Results...only a 20A battery, probably a 30Q
• MXJO Yellow/Silver 35A 3000mAh 18650 Bench Test Results...only a 15A-20A battery, but near an HG2

 

[Vapin4Real]

Also when you use your temp control there is usually an option to lock the resistance of the coil (unless your mod dont require it). You should do this when the coil is at room temperature. The reason is that the mod doesnt compensate for the coil being warm from vaping and it can cause it to read it at different ohms which will change your vaping experience. Not sure if your mod has the option for it or not but I highly recommend doing so if you can.

 

[suprtrkr]

I'm late to the thread, but @Susan~S has linked you to the MXJO tests. Your Koopor is a fine mod. I have one and it is, IMHO, the current value leader in the 2-battery division. It's got all the features, solidly and soundly constructed and it works well at the right price. Regarding your batteries, they are not my first choice, but there are worse ones out there. Keep that Koopor at 120 watts or less and you should have no problems. You have also been linked to @Mooch's blog, telling you how to calculate the battery draw, but a good, and simple, rule of thumb is, on 20A batteries, 60 watts maximum per battery on a regulated mod. Your mod uses two batteries, so 120 watts and you'll be fine.

While the rule of thumb is great to keep you safe, I applaud your interest in Ohm's Law, and it is hugely important if you ever intend to run a mechanical mod of any type.The actual calculations can safely be left to the Ohm's Law Calculator, but it is helpful to understand what it is and how it works. Simply, Ohm's Law is one of the foundation basics in electrical theory, and it classifies the relationship between potential, current and resistance; in the classical formulation, it takes one vold of potential to push one ampere of current across one ohm of resistance. (With a tip of the hat to the technical purists around here,) note I said nothing about watts. That's because Georg Simon Ohm said nothing about watts, his law relates only to the components of the movement of electricity. Watts had to wait for James Watt to invent them, and publish Watts law to relate watts to electricity. Consider a pump pushing fluid through a pipe: Volts is analogous to the pressure the pump develops, amps are the flow volume in (some volume unit) per (some time unit), and resistance can be thought of as the friction and turbulence caused by the pipe wall. Watts, OTOH, would be the total volume of fluid actually delivered in practice over some time period. I have found it helpful, if you are math inclined, to look at the Ohm's Law Wheel as a graphical representation, so you can see how the various items interact with each other: