New to vaping,Need help on build
- Thread starter Kaizal
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Depending on your watts-wicking-resistance
Low resistance- very high watts-bad wicking
99.99% a dry hit
Also, for rda you should not vape till the cotton is white..
Thats what i know currently since i too started vaping few months back but im sure veterans here know much more than me!
Last but not least welcome to Vaping!
Low resistance- very high watts-bad wicking
99.99% a dry hit
Also, for rda you should not vape till the cotton is white..
Thats what i know currently since i too started vaping few months back but im sure veterans here know much more than me!
Last but not least welcome to Vaping!
Usually cottons are bleached..which makes taste different 
High resistance coil recommended is .5 ohms or more(really safe side)
Currently highest watts i've vape is 100w with resistance of 0.66 ohms. I did 8-9 wraps for each coil(26g kanthal) try not to go to 200w as its quite dangerous
High resistance coil recommended is .5 ohms or more(really safe side)
Currently highest watts i've vape is 100w with resistance of 0.66 ohms. I did 8-9 wraps for each coil(26g kanthal) try not to go to 200w as its quite dangerous
Mind taking a pic of your coil set up and wicking so we can see if there is anything to be adjusted
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It seems like your coil is protruding by the sides. Nt sure if its the camera angle.
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if you get dry hits from a Nickel build, its your wicking IMHO.. when you pull thru your cotton, it should be snug not too loose that it easily sides in or too tight that you need force to pull it in.
in temp control mode, even if you vape till your cotton is dry you will not get a dry hit..
Also, get an unbleached organic cotton as you may vape harmful chemicals in bleached cotton.
in temp control mode, even if you vape till your cotton is dry you will not get a dry hit..
Also, get an unbleached organic cotton as you may vape harmful chemicals in bleached cotton.
On temp control, there's a few steps to make sure you will never get a dry hit.
First and foremost, you need to build it within your device parameters. Since yours is a SW build 0.05ohms and above. Build a spaced coil as this will avoid major hot spots. You can't pulse nickel or titanium so this is your best bet that your coil heats from the inside out.
Secondly make sure your connections are secure. Weak connection of the coil will make the reading jump a lot. You need a stable resistance.
Third, your wicking must be right. The cotton should fit snugly, not too loose or too packed. Too loose the cotton might break and you will get a lot of spit back, too tight you will not be able to wick efficiently.
You then have to mount your tank at room temperature. This is important as it provides the optimal base reading.
Cotton has a flash point of 420f thereabout. So set it at 420 if you don't want your cotton to burn.
With all this secure, your wicks won't burn and you won't get a dry hit. This is the beauty of temp control.
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First and foremost, you need to build it within your device parameters. Since yours is a SW build 0.05ohms and above. Build a spaced coil as this will avoid major hot spots. You can't pulse nickel or titanium so this is your best bet that your coil heats from the inside out.
Secondly make sure your connections are secure. Weak connection of the coil will make the reading jump a lot. You need a stable resistance.
Third, your wicking must be right. The cotton should fit snugly, not too loose or too packed. Too loose the cotton might break and you will get a lot of spit back, too tight you will not be able to wick efficiently.
You then have to mount your tank at room temperature. This is important as it provides the optimal base reading.
Cotton has a flash point of 420f thereabout. So set it at 420 if you don't want your cotton to burn.
With all this secure, your wicks won't burn and you won't get a dry hit. This is the beauty of temp control.
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Even 10-20deg shift to 235deg C is fine (420f to 215c) on the assumption cotton is still wet.
I think the definition of dry hit is quite ambiguous, to me dry hit should mean cotton is slightly wet and you get muted flavour together with slight charring of cotton.
Burnt hit should be a more suitable definition in this case where cotton is burnt together with juice.(TC prevents burnt hits but not dry hits imo)
Dry hit = drip more juice in my case.
I think the definition of dry hit is quite ambiguous, to me dry hit should mean cotton is slightly wet and you get muted flavour together with slight charring of cotton.
Burnt hit should be a more suitable definition in this case where cotton is burnt together with juice.(TC prevents burnt hits but not dry hits imo)
Dry hit = drip more juice in my case.
In trouble my friend. ni200 wires are not supposed to burn to that colour when you use them. If it changes colour then you are inhaling the toxic. Your build is way out of proportion and not even at all. Total fail. You need to really space out evenly and both coils have to be almost perfectly equal. Ditch that whole setup and rebuild again, unless you wanna harm your health.
If you vape dry cotton then yes below 420. But no one does that. Wet cotton won't burn at 420f, at least for me. Even it it is bone dry it'll just taste muted. But you'll definitely know when it is dry since the taste would be long gone.
Like what epic said, ni200 should not change color at all. Once you see it turns dusty white you know it's a gone coil. Never vape it, it's toxic.
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Whenever I coil nickel I will test fire before I wick, if the coil change color that mean its not good and I will redo again untill I get it right. If you do it right the nickel will stay same colour when you test fire. That is what I learn.
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