New Xhalers for 17670 batts... available?

[SeaburyNorton]

I am an owner of a protege, and really want to take the plunge and pick up an xhaler... I understand that the tubes are being opened up so that they may be used with the protected 17670 batts... are these versions available yet? I see the batts and charger available on Drew's site, but no clear seperation of xhaler models... also, if one were to purchase this model, does it vape at 3.7 volts with just one battery *like the protege*?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Up In Vapor]

Drew posted here which models are honed and will fit the 17670 batts...

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...e-xhaler-other-mods-you-own-2.html#post811091

You can PM him to confirm before you order, he'll respond quickly I'm sure.

 

[Cherice]

When will we be able to purchase a second honed tube? I remember Drew mentioning that we would be able to at a reasonable price

 

[eclypse]

I dont think you would want to use these at 3.7v as the vinyl coating adds resistance so it will be well under 3.7v... but i'll check again and report back. Maybe a better option for those that have a painted or if you removed the vinyl from the Xhaler.

EDIT: Yeah just checked with that long 3.7v batt thats fully charged at 4.24v and the load test with a 510 is only 2.8 ish volts. Yet the protege 3.7v device runs at 3.90v under load with a fresh 4.24v charged 3.7v batt.

So theres a big difference..

Cap tight or loose its the same.

Oh, i also find the same prob with my new Black powder coated Silver Bullet. With a Fresh 3.7v batt (charged to 4.24v) it only runs at 3.18+v under load with a 510 atty. May be over spray on that one and will check it soon, though i feel its the coating. Asked the manufacturer about it and no response after getting quick emails back and forth about buying other items a few mins earlier.

 

[andel11]

I dont think you would want to use these at 3.7v as the vinyl coating adds resistance so it will be well under 3.7v... but i'll check again and report back. Maybe a better option for those that have a painted or if you removed the vinyl from the Xhaler.

EDIT: Yeah just checked with that long 3.7v batt thats fully charged at 4.24v and the load test with a 510 is only 2.8 ish volts. Yet the protege 3.7v device runs at 3.90v under load with a fresh 4.24v charged 3.7v batt.

So theres a big difference..

Cap tight or loose its the same.

Oh, i also find the same prob with my new Black powder coated Silver Bullet. With a Fresh 3.7v batt (charged to 4.24v) it only runs at 3.18+v under load with a 510 atty. May be over spray on that one and will check it soon, though i feel its the coating. Asked the manufacturer about it and no response after getting quick emails back and forth about buying other items a few mins earlier.

Thanks for mentioning that, I had ordered some of the 17670 batteries from Battery Junction and thought that they were bad batteries. After charging them a couple of times, I couldn't figure out why their was hardly any vapor from these batteries from my NHaler( I have the vinyl backing). So I sent them back, but I am glad to see this posted.

 

[Leeroy5150]

as the vinyl coating adds resistance so it will be well under 3.7v...

Eclypse,

Not sure I get this. Could you explain in a little more detail why this happens? The tube is metal and conductive... How does wrapping it in vinyl significantly affect its resistance?

i.e. If I strip a Piece of copper wire out of its vinyl jacketing does a few inches of it somehow conduct appreciably better than it did wrapped in its insulation?

I am pretty new to vaping and Mods, but from a pure physiscs perspective I don't get it. Not really doubting you as you have measured it, but I am definately a little baffled at this. What am I missing?

 

[eclypse]

I dont think you would want to use these at 3.7v as the vinyl coating adds resistance so it will be well under 3.7v... but i'll check again and report back. Maybe a better option for those that have a painted or if you removed the vinyl from the Xhaler.

EDIT: Yeah just checked with that long 3.7v batt thats fully charged at 4.24v and the load test with a 510 is only 2.8 ish volts. Yet the protege 3.7v device runs at 3.90v under load with a fresh 4.24v charged 3.7v batt.

So theres a big difference..

Cap tight or loose its the same.

Oh, i also find the same prob with my new Black powder coated Silver Bullet. With a Fresh 3.7v batt (charged to 4.24v) it only runs at 3.18+v under load with a 510 atty. May be over spray on that one and will check it soon, though i feel its the coating. Asked the manufacturer about it and no response after getting quick emails back and forth about buying other items a few mins earlier.

BIG EDIT: USER ERROR or something up with my switch. Prob needs to be cleaned hehe.

Today i was sittin on the can vaping away and noticed i was having some firing issues. Seemed i had to slam on the button to get it working good.

I was like wha? cause i cleaned the switch with polish and added some Noalox to it and it seemed to be firing perfect days ago.

So i pulled the cap off and looked in and seen a large drop of Noalox on the tube where the switch meets.

I pulled out the load test line and did a test and it was in the low 4v range.. if i slamed on the button pressing it as hard as i could it would fire at 5.35 volts.

I thought hmm.. i bet the 3.7v battery would be good now. Tried it out and at first it was in the high 2.80s and then i slamed on the button and it went as high as 3.50ish volts! Now thats more freakin like it! Should be that high as its a mechanical switch. Checked the battery dry and its reading at 4.05 volts.

So, now to figure out why i gota press so hard to get it to fire right.. its either the divit from the contact point of the switch or i gota clean it again this soon as i just cleaned it Friday when i got it back in the mail.

 

[alphafemale]

eclypse-did you take the load test line into the can too? lol just pickin on ya!

 

[eclypse]

eclypse-did you take the load test line into the can too? lol just pickin on ya!

Ah... no!

Oh let me add that a load test is not nessissary to test if your switch is working good.

Just put the atty near your ear and press the button as you would normally do.. then press real hard.. If the sizzle sound is louder the when you press harder then you have the same prob as me heh. More voltage the harder you press the button.