New ZAP - first RBA

[Jacoji]

jsl1ce Thanks for the info on stripping the "silver satin". I was going to ask about that but wanted to get through my wick and coil issues first. I have my own SS mesh now so next time around I will try out a solid wick.

 

[pAth77]

Have any of you successfully set up the ZAP after removing the insulator? I can't seem to get rid of the hot spots (top coil) with the insulator removed. I'm using the Petar K method (exactly the same way that I set up my DID), but I'm just not having any luck. The only difference that I can see from my DID is that I can't get the wick close to the ZAP's positive post due to the overlap of the pos post screw. Any ideas?

 

[Jacoji]

pAth77: Your inquiry leaves me with more questions than answers. Maybe one of the previous posters who offered advice will return.

My silica should arrive tomorrow so next for me is a silica wick wrapped with 500 SS mesh.

 

[lowboy]

Yes
You have to oxidize the wick good. I had to do a juice burn on most that I did without the insulator.
If your top wire is getting hot then I would say your wick needs to be pulled back up toward the top.
It's a fine line sometimes. Your top wire may be a tad looser than the rest too.
Without seeing it in person it' hard to tell you what I would do.
It takes practice, practice, and more practice.
After trying both ways I ended up using the insulator and the Peter-K method.
I got more success with less fuss that way.

Have any of you successfully set up the ZAP after removing the insulator? I can't seem to get rid of the hot spots (top coil) with the insulator removed. I'm using the Petar K method (exactly the same way that I set up my DID), but I'm just not having any luck. The only difference that I can see from my DID is that I can't get the wick close to the ZAP's positive post due to the overlap of the pos post screw. Any ideas?

 

[pAth77]

I was actually able to get it going without the insulator a couple days ago. The only thing that I did differently in setting it up was to use 400 mesh instead of 500. As I do with my other RBAs, I only torched the mesh lightly before rolling and then quickly again after rolling so that it will keep its shape. Coil was made with the usual drill bit method. All is good for me now with the ZAP/ProV combo, but I still can't understand why it's more finicky than my other RBAs.

I've tried it with the insulator in and no matter what type of wick I made, I couldn't get it to wick well enough. All my juices have at least 60% VG.

 

[Jacoji]

I made a Pete's Burrito wick! #500 SS mesh and 2.5mm silica (starting thinner for easier rolling). Now I can enjoy my ZAP. Finally a tasty, smooth vaporous vape.

 

[Jacoji]

So after stalking the posts of Pete54 on ECF and IVC, writing half a page of notes from various comments in various threads and giving it a try, TODAY he posts consolidated step-by-step instructions on ECF.

Well, at least for future reference:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blogs/jacoji/3593-pete54s-burrito-wick-screw-coil.html

(Since this was a post in another Supplier Forum I blogged the post for reference in ProVape's forum.)

 

[Jacoji]

I kind of accidentally removed my insulator today so ended up giving a try without it. 40mm of #500 SS mesh wrapped around a 3mm silica wick (same setup that I use in my Temon - yeah, I have 2 RBAs now and I will have 4 by the end of this week). It is working very nicely. I did 3 rounds of flame and water followed by juice and flame - and a second juice and flame after the coils weren't all lighting up evenly.

Now, to remove the silver satin from the bottom band.