Newbie considerations for mech mod purchase

[Ben85]

I don't see how that is misinformation? It's just fact. I have had 3 coil heads in my time arrive dead short and I didn't even use coil heads very long (all for a subtank fwiw). Now if I hadn't used those on a regulated mod, and if I hadn't known what I was doing with these things, I could have ended up with a real problem.

Just because something hasn't happened to you, it doesn't mean it won't happen. There is also a huge difference between a risk you may be willing to take yourself and one you would advise another person to do. Especially when that person has, quite rightly, gone to the effort to ask the questions to seek out the info.

 

[gpjoe]

I didn't see the part about the pre-built coils, but still stand by my response. There is nothing wrong with using prebuilt coils on a mech - as long as you "understand Ohm's Law, use an ohm meter to check for shorted builds, and be mindful of battery safety and limits".

I used to rebuild my Kanger Protank coils for use on Evod batteries and my very first mech mod, and always checked them on an ohm meter for a short. In fact, I didn't even consider rebuilding them until I purchased the meter.

Having said all of that - I completely understand the response by Ben85 - it could be dangerous IF you happened to get a shorted prebuilt coil. I've never had one, but that doesn't meant it can't happen.

But again, a $15 back-box ohm meter assures that you aren't creating a harmful condition with a prebuilt coil on a mech mod.

 

[sawlight]

I don't see how that is misinformation? It's just fact. I have had 3 coil heads in my time arrive dead short and I didn't even use coil heads very long (all for a subtank fwiw). Now if I hadn't used those on a regulated mod, and if I hadn't known what I was doing with these things, I could have ended up with a real problem.

Just because something hasn't happened to you, it doesn't mean it won't happen. There is also a huge difference between a risk you may be willing to take yourself and one you would advise another person to do. Especially when that person has, quite rightly, gone to the effort to ask the questions to seek out the info.

Fair points! BUT as @gpjoe pointed out, if you are playing with a mech, you need an ohm meter anyways! And I have had blown and shorted out cartomizers, both are pretty obvious and pretty quick to determine, even without an ohm meter! Believe me, nothing like vaping on a carto, without the cooling effects of a tank, having it short out on a road trip! CRAP HAPPENS! But man do they get hot FAST!!! I'd imagine you'd figure out pretty quick you've got a shorted coil head as well, but that's me.
I'm sorry, I'm just tired of all the misinformation that's been spread around lately about mechs! Any of these devices are just as dangerous as the next, and I've stated over and over I'm afraid we will be seeing a lot of the multiple battery mods blowing up soon as they are becoming more popular.

 

[Bad Ninja]

Anyone that has used prebuilt coil heads for any length if time knows that from time to time they arrive DOA.
Usually the thin cheap rubber insulator tears.
New vapers rarely know what to do in the case of a dead short, so advising their use with a mechanical is irresponsible and dangerous.
There are lots of other options that are much less dangerous.

Know your gear. Vape safe.

 

[mhertz]

Arriving DOA is irrelevant as stated because you don't use a mech without checking build/stock-coil with an ohm-meter first initially...

No one had advised using stock-coils without ohm-meter checking first. Using a mech without proper precautions is what's irresponsible(again, user-error)...

If a stock-coil's insulator is prone to tear over time(don't know as not interested in them personally), then of course you have a point there.

Note, i'm not advising anything here...

 

[Nikea Tiber]

There is one other consideration in terms of using kanger prebuilt coil heads, and that is the lack of support the parallel coil leads have within the coil head barrel/base, and the compressibility of the insulator at the bottom. Some mech mods can transmit sufficient force through the floating 510 pin that the subtank series has in the base. If the (positive) coil head base gets compressed either the insulator can get pushed out from between the positive coil head base and negative coil head barrel, creating a short. Since the coil leads run parallel together closely, they can get pushed together through force transmitted through the floating 510 in the tank base. I've seen the second situation happen with a former friend. He was using a subtank with a stock coil head on a smok magneto, though I told him it wasn't a good idea the day before. He screwed it together pretty tightly, told me it wouldn't hit and was getting really hot when he tried firing it. Handed it to me and yeah, it was a hot potato. I unscrewed it, dumped the battery in the gravel, and watched as the shrink wrap started to split from the heat.
If you have a subtank and want to use it for a mech, use the RBA deck, it provides enough mechanical support to prevent accidents from happening. You can also fine tune your vape as well. Don't be intimidated, it may be small, but it is easy to build on.

 

[ericbnc]

HCigar Nemesis is a nice mod, I like the look of brass.

 

[Yiana]

Fasttech has discontinued nemesis. Any other recommendations on a budget mech with a kick?

 

[Yiana]

I found some nemesis on clearance at a couple places and also stingray. Which one is better? Also, where would I buy a kick to put in it?