Newbie-Mech Vandy Squonk Pulse 80w Build ?'s

[ranjen617]

New to squonking and new to mech. I have a Vandy Pulse 80w mod on the way. I have read and reread threads on the Ohm laws and cautions.
This will have a single battery. My taste always calls for .2 to .4 ohm on regulated mods. Hence, regulated. Since I'll be dripping, squonking the taste will increase so I know my ohm preference can increase (looking to be safe here).

I'm not a cloud chaser but a flavor taster first and do like clouds, but not necessary.

In this mod, what would be a safe build to start on? Single/dual (I like the dual myself) but want to keep it as safe but not starve for flavor. I was thinking .6 - .8ohm for the build to be in a good range. Is this wrong for me thinking so? How would you build in keeping flavor but staying safe for a good first build? The single battery vs dual is throwing me just a tad. I've looked and calculated but just want to be sure and get a second opinion from mech mod pros here.
Thank you in advance!

 

[diagrammatiks]

Well which one did you buy? The 80watt or the mech?

 

[ranjen617]

It's the Vandy Vape Pulse BF Squonk - Single 18650/20700 Mech Box mod. Comes with a 18650 adapter, which I'll probably just use the 18650. I had thought it was a 80w, but just looked and it didn't say.

 

[Izan]

It's the Vandy Vape Pulse BF Squonk - Single 18650/20700 Mech Box mod. Comes with a 18650 adapter, which I'll probably just use the 18650. I had thought it was a 80w, but just looked and it didn't say.

Hi,
What are you building on now? Mod/Topper?
How will you check the resistance of your builds for the VV squonk?

Which 18650 are you planning to use in the VV squonk?
Which RDA will you be using on the VV squonk?
What type and size of wire do you have to work with?

What is the nicotine strength of the juice you are using now?

Cheers
I

 

[ranjen617]

Have a few RDA's. Everything from a old PV to a Faris on order. Have old Royal Rda's plus Pyro 2 and Dead Rabbit. So I have my pick of which one to go on. Was thinking about trying the Faris once it arrives on this mod, my thinking.

Mods now are a paperweight Voopoo Too (dead and shocking me after one day lol), Voopoo Drag 2, Innokin 220 and a Naboo. I've got to get a pin connection for my Hana mods to get those back running.

I have Kanthal 24, 26 and 28. Plus some prebuilds of Tiger, Clapton and twisted ribbon. Just wanted to build vs use premades though.

LG 3000 mah 20 amp. (Brown wraps)

Nic levels are 6 and 12mg. I like both, depends on the day. 70/30

I have a few angles to try on the tops, so I'm up for any suggestion. The Motofo Faris I'd like to try since they should get here about the same day.

Just trying to be safe and not blow up anything here. I'm thinking the prebuilds might be too low actually.

 

[ranjen617]

Zeus dual on order as well. Forgot that's coming with the Faris.

 

[ranjen617]

Zeus dual on order as well. Forgot that's coming with the Faris.

I have about 3 ohm meters and one that is actually pretty expensive for home projects, as in a true volt meter for my bike that has several settings. I'm covered in that area.

 

[gpjoe]

It's important for us to know for sure whether it's a regulated Pulse 80 or the mechanical Pulse. It makes a huge difference in recommending a build. In my experience, the Pulse 80 can easily handle wire like the clapton and tiger, but the Pulse mechanical mod will struggle a bit due to voltage drop - it will work, but the Pulse mech is not terribly efficient.

That being said, I run 3mm kanthal clapton coils between .5 and .8 ohms in Recurve RDAs on my Pulse 80 mods at 30-35 watts. Using the same Recurve RDAs on my Pulse mech mods I find that a single-wire coil using 24 or 22ga kanthal works better.

The mAh rating of the batteries will determine your run time with either mod, and I have used both 18650 and 20700. Just make sure that you use quality batteries and do not exceed the max amperage rating of the batteries - which is more critical with a mechanical mod. If you start at/above .5-ohms (8.4 amps on a mech mod) you should be fine with good batteries.

As far as ohmmeters, it is very difficult to get an accurate reading with a bench-type meter. Even a Fluke meter costing a couple hundred bucks will not have the resolution to accurately measure tenths of an ohm. I would suggest getting a dedicated RDA meter for 20-30 bucks, or using a regulated mod to check your resistance. Unless of course you have a $500 high-resolution bench meter - most do not.

 

[ranjen617]

It's important for us to know for sure whether it's a regulated Pulse 80 or the mechanical Pulse. It makes a huge difference in recommending a build. In my experience, the Pulse 80 can easily handle wire like the clapton and tiger, but the Pulse mechanical mod will struggle a bit due to voltage drop - it will work, but the Pulse mech is not terribly efficient.

That being said, I run 3mm kanthal clapton coils between .5 and .8 ohms in Recurve RDAs on my Pulse 80 mods at 30-35 watts. Using the same Recurve RDAs on my Pulse mech mods I find that a single-wire coil using 24 or 22ga kanthal works better.

The mAh rating of the batteries will determine your run time with either mod, and I have used both 18650 and 20700. Just make sure that you use quality batteries and do not exceed the max amperage rating of the batteries - which is more critical with a mechanical mod. If you start at/above .5-ohms (8.4 amps on a mech mod) you should be fine with good batteries.

As far as ohmmeters, it is very difficult to get an accurate reading with a bench-type meter. Even a Fluke meter costing a couple hundred bucks will not have the resolution to accurately measure tenths of an ohm. I would suggest getting a dedicated RDA meter for 20-30 bucks, or using a regulated mod to check your resistance. Unless of course you have a $500 high-resolution bench meter - most do not.

Thank you for your suggestions.
This is a pulse mech mod. I'll be using LG 18650 3000 mah 30 amp (brown wraps).

I was thinking the same thing about a 3mm coil as well. So forget the dual and run a single then. Got it. I have plenty of 24g here, well I have a stash of all.

I was thinking running a little high on the ohms since there's more issues with running low (I can save low ohms for the regulated mods, no issue there).

Sounds crazy but yes, that's the tester I have here. One of those $$$ ones. Got it from my Dad after he gave up on DIY home projects. I have a few meters here that I use and go back and recheck, I don't trust builds after a few days, just me.

I like the flavor of the better wires but since those are prebuilt and low ohm, I just didn't think I'd go that route. Trying to stay away from the danger zone here. Decent deal for $12 plus a squonking mod at that. Reviews looked good and I keep my mods in good shape along with tossing batteries after they drop. I don't like to charge half bad batteries all day.

The tops that I have range from just about anything but truly wanted to give the new atty a go and see how it ran. Then build a few rda's for the house.

I have all my electronics here for safety. I've just been a picky person on electrical anything all my life (Had a Christmas tree at age of 3 to teach me about getting shocked and a jeep battery to blow and teach me about acid flying. So yeah, I'm cautious!).

Think I'll try the single coil first then try a dual on a reg rda. Seems like a start.

In thinking, I'm going to keep this relatively at home vs on the go for now. I want to get into the habit of turning it off first. Just a good buy plus my first squonk. I knew there was danger but felt I knew a little about electronics that I'd be safe (even took a electronic class years ago).

Just didn't know how the draw would be on one vs two then the ohm being low. Wasn't sure about how low to go and be fairly safe. That's a relatively low and safe draw at 8amps +/- on those builds, keeping under 10 amp pull.

Thank you so much, again! !!!

 

[gpjoe]

No problem.

Those are good batteries - I have like 12 of them that I used in both my REO and Pulse squonk mods.

Sorry but I had to chuckle over the Jeep battery - glad you are ok - I had the same experience with a battery on my lawn tractor. I was charging it in it's battery box on the mower and some fumes built up around the battery. When I cranked it over the battery exploded - thankfully it was installed under the seat and confined, so no harm done other than me jumping 10-feet in the air, and destroying that battery and plastic enclosure.

Knowing the batteries and mod you are using (great deal for 12 bucks on the Pulse mod), I would recommend simple single-wire coils at .5-ohms to start. That will pull 8.4 amps on a freshly charged battery (assuming 4.2 volts) and is well within the max discharge rate of the cell.

The last thing I would advise it to measure your coil resistance with the cap on the RDA to make sure the coil is not shorted to the cap when installed. Of course this will not apply if the cap is plastic/non-conductive.

 

[ranjen617]

No problem.

Those are good batteries - I have like 12 of them that I used in both my REO and Pulse squonk mods.

Sorry but I had to chuckle over the Jeep battery - glad you are ok - I had the same experience with a battery on my lawn tractor. I was charging it in it's battery box on the mower and some fumes built up around the battery. When I cranked it over the battery exploded - thankfully it was installed under the seat and confined, so no harm done other than me jumping 10-feet in the air, and destroying that battery and plastic enclosure.

Knowing the batteries and mod you are using (great deal for 12 bucks on the Pulse mod), I would recommend simple single-wire coils at .5-ohms to start. That will pull 8.4 amps on a freshly charged battery (assuming 4.2 volts) and is well within the max discharge rate of the cell.

The last thing I would advise it to measure your coil resistance with the cap on the RDA to make sure the coil is not shorted to the cap when installed. Of course this will not apply if the cap is plastic/non-conductive.

Yes, I feel better knowing what to do here now vs whenever I first asked. Thank you!

I've used Samsung batteries forever then I started using the LG's. Only two I really buy. I go with what works and the trust factor.

Glad it was only your lawn tractor! Plus a cover. Last year a friend of mine while riding had her alligator clip to short the battery on her bike. We pulled over, but I never got close. Stayed at a distant and offered help from about 15 feet. Lol. The jeep I had came with those KC lights and apparently were not wired correctly. I pulled in to my mom's business, got out and as soon as I was in the front. ...Bam! I did a quick drop to the ground. Jeep sold the next week. I think I might have made one payment. Sold! I still have issues with plugging up chargers or cables to cars to this day. Funny story but true. I'll give you the cables and I'll sit in the vehicle to jump off another and that's it.

I'll take your advice on the singles. Singles do have a good flavor. That's well in line of running low amps as well on that build. It's a vape, not something to stress over. Yes, online I saw the Cyber Monday deals and bought one. Didn't think to buy a few since I've never squonked before and didn't know how I'd like it. $11.99 couldn't break the bank. Figured if I didn't like it, easy to sit on the shelf or give away.

Thank you for reminding me about checking while the cap is on. The regulated mods catch those mishaps but this one won't. I knew to try it out on another mod first then go from there. Just didn't think about that. Good mention! The deck should be very spacious on Faris. It's an rda that can turn into a rdta, squonk or no squonk. Went with that one vs the Serpent. Again, another deal at $17.00. This has always been my time of the year to buy vaping things. Tides me over until next year. Except juice. ...That's my next project, making my own. Ugh.

Thank you so much again and I'll post here once I get the units in and built. Might be interesting to build while having free time while staying with my Dad at the hospital next week. At least if something went wrong, I'd be near a nurse. Just kidding, this will probably be my best build since I'll be taking my time and checking it once I get back home. Might build a few just to pass time.

Hope you have a great day ahead! Thank you for all of your help!

 

[puffon]

This is a pulse mech mod. I'll be using LG 18650 3000 mah 30 amp (brown wraps).

The brown wrapper LG HG2 18650 3000 mah is a 20 amp battery.

 

[ranjen617]

The brown wrapper LG HG2 18650 3000 mah is a 20 amp battery.

You are very correct. I made an error while typing. They are 20's for sure!

 

[Ben85]

It is quite concerning to read that you have bought a mod stating it is a mech, then saying that you think it’s an 80w. If you knew ANYTHING about mechs you would know just how illogical that is.

Please read up on everything mech related before you do anything at all with that mod. I think you have more gaps in your knowledge than you know. As the saying goes, “you don’t know what you don’t know”.

 

[ranjen617]

It is quite concerning to read that you have bought a mod stating it is a mech, then saying that you think it’s an 80w. If you knew ANYTHING about mechs you would know just how illogical that is.

Please read up on everything mech related before you do anything at all with that mod. I think you have more gaps in your knowledge than you know. As the saying goes, “you don’t know what you don’t know”.

I was just going on a few hours of sleep that day. Been dealing with a father in sickness and lost my grandmother the same week.
I know the difference and just a tired typo. It's a mech and not the 80w but went to my order to make sure I had ordered the mech.
I learned the ohms law several years ago in school (I had to take another course since I got ahead in school and needed to cram in 1.5 years of some other course, so I took electronics).
I'm sure I won't hurt myself but thank you for catching that since some could possibly do that. The guys in the vape store where I live won't even touch them but an hour away in my old B&M they swear by them. I'm going to build high for awhile. My best flavors come from about .4 to a .5....

 

[VapourFlavour]

New to squonking and new to mech. I have a Vandy Pulse 80w mod on the way. I have read and reread threads on the Ohm laws and cautions.
This will have a single battery. My taste always calls for .2 to .4 ohm on regulated mods. Hence, regulated. Since I'll be dripping, squonking the taste will increase so I know my ohm preference can increase (looking to be safe here).

I'm not a cloud chaser but a flavor taster first and do like clouds, but not necessary.

In this mod, what would be a safe build to start on? Single/dual (I like the dual myself) but want to keep it as safe but not starve for flavor. I was thinking .6 - .8ohm for the build to be in a good range. Is this wrong for me thinking so? How would you build in keeping flavor but staying safe for a good first build? The single battery vs dual is throwing me just a tad. I've looked and calculated but just want to be sure and get a second opinion from mech mod pros here.
Thank you in advance!

I'm going to be brutally honest with you because I care about the safety of fellow vapers. DO NOT use a mech! When you get it, put it away and continue your mech education. You say mech 80W, then again say you thought it was 80W again in another post, it's not a typo after 3 times. You need more knowledge and that's not intended as an insult in any way. You also don't know the correct cdr of your batteries, that's one of the most important things, if not the most critical, to know with a mech. Please man, mechs can be very dangerous if you're not sure what your doing or think your batteries are rated 10A higher than they actually are, you simply are not ready yet, and it can end very badly.

 

[Baditude]

Typo or not, the brown wrapped LG HG2 3000mAh battery has a 20 amp continuous discharge rating, not 30. The continuous discharge rating of your battery determines how low you can build on a mech. It also is a wise idea to have some safe "headroom" built into your coil resistance, as the continuous discharge rating falls as the battery ages.

With a regulated mod, coil resistance is basically irrelevant. Batteries to use depends upon the wattage setting you use and the amp rating of the battery. Uses Watt's Law, not Ohm's Law, so the coil resistance is not part of the equation.

​

With a mech mod, the coil resistance and the amp rating of your battery is vitally important. You don't have the protections in a mech mod that you have in a regulated mod, so you have to know and understand how to use them safely.

​

Although you said you learned Ohm's Law in school, I think you would benefit from a refresher as it relates to vaping with a mech mod, or you wouldn't need to be asking here. (although I'm glad you chose to ask for your own safety)

Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations for a Mechanical Mod

A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod

Battery Basics for Mods: The Definative Battery Guide for Vaping

Personally, I found my "sweet spot" to be 0.6 ohm (1.2 ohm x2 dual coil build). Good luck, and always vape safely or don't vape at all.

 

[VapourFlavour]

Typo or not, the brown wrapped LG HG2 3000mAh battery has a 20 continuous discharge rating, not 30. The continuous discharge rating of your battery determines how low you can build on a mech. It also is a wise idea to have some safe "headroom" built into your coil resistance, as the continuous discharge rate falls as the battery ages.

With a regulated mod, coil resistance is basically irrelevant. Batteries chosen depends upon the wattage setting you use and the amp rating of the battery.

With a mech mod, the coil resistance and the amp rating of your battery is vitally important. You don't have the protections in a mech mod that you have in a regulated mod, so you have to know and understand how to use them safely.

Although you said you learned Ohm's Law in school, I think you would benefit from a refresher as it relates to vaping with a mech mod, or you wouldn't need to be asking here. (although I'm glad you chose to ask for your own safety)

Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations for a Mechanical Mod

A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod

Battery Basics for Mods: The Definative Battery Guide for Vaping

Good luck, and always vape safely or don't vape at all.

I'm glad the op came on to ask questions and hopefully he listens. What scares me is how many people don't bother asking questions.

 

[Baditude]

The guys in the vape store where I live won't even touch them [mechanical] but an hour away in my old B&M they swear by them.

I'm glad the op came on to ask questions and hopefully he listens. What scares me is how many people don't bother asking questions.

There's a good reason why the local vape shop won't touch a mech. They don't want the liability if a customer has one blow up in his face. Several vape manufacturers have gone out of business after being sued for millions of dollars when a battery exploded in a mech. First vape related death

 

[VapourFlavour]

There's a good reason why the local vape shop won't touch a mech. They don't want the liability if a customer has one blow up in their face. Vape manufacturers have gone out of business after being sued for millions of dollars when a battery explodes in a mech. First vape related death

We're lucky in my area to have a bunch of shops, most don't carry mechs. In the last 6 months I've noticed a shift in a couple of the shops to carrying a lot more pod based systems. I guess that makes sense if that is where the money is. Back to mechs, I completely understand why a shop wouldn't carry them, having said that, with some simple questions you could determine fairly quickly whether someone knows what they're doing or not. Then it's just a case of saying no if your not comfortable. On the other hand, if you have employees that might sell without asking all of the pertinent questions, as the owner do you want to trust them? I wouldn't.