newbie question about ohm

[piggypinggy]

hi guys, I'm new to vaping. Here are my setting:
1.8 ohm dual coil with Aerotank Mega, mostly using 70%VG 30%PG juices with around 8~9 watts power.
I have one question, I see there are 1.0 ohm dual coil, wt's the difference between 1.0 and 1.8? Should I switch to 1.0? What is it going to give me?
thanks for helping<3 everyone hv a great 2015

 

[brickfollett]

I'd say your not going to notice a difference. 9 watts at 1 ohm is more or less the same as 9 watts at 1.8 ohms. Watts is essentially the final measure of the power actually going to your coils. Also not all regulated devices will fire a 1 ohm coil because it may be too low ohms. Just depends on what your using. If your curious to see the difference, sure, try the 1 ohm. I'm sure it will be "different" but not necessarily any better or worse. I would actually bet that you will get better flavor and vapor from the 1.8. Try cranking that thing up to 12 or 13 watts! Really brings out the flavor. I think I used it at close to 18 watts before

 

[alicewonderland]

lower ohms mean you get lower voltage from the same wattage. IE: 1.8 coil@9watts= 4.02V , 1.0 coil@9watts=3V, if you run lower coil at the same watts youll notice a drop in performance.

if you raise the watts so you get the same voltage to each coil,
the difference is that you are pulling more amps from the battery.

1.8ohm@9w=4.02V =2.24Amps
1.0ohm@16.16w=4.02V =4.02Amps



its all about personal preference if you can really tell a difference between the resistances, personally I cant tell much difference and I just build coils and use random coils instead of aiming for lower ohms. VV/VW devices are nice in that you can adjust it based on the coils you stick on there rather than building a certain coil a certain way.

also, the lower resistances= the more amps u pull= the more stress is on the battery

 

[steved5600]

FYI 70%VG 30%PG is not a good mix for tanks. Should not be anymore than 50%, VG 30% for the best wicking.

 

[brickfollett]

FYI 70%VG 30%PG is not a good mix for tanks. Should not be anymore than 50%, VG 30% for the best wicking.

While I agree that more pg wicks better, I've used plenty of tanks with 100% vg and they do fine for the most part. Granted your coils may not last as long though. For rebuildables, the vg has been a barrier for me though, hard to perfect the wicking to get it to run at elevated watts

 

[sparkky1]

What there saying is with the lower ohm coil you have the ability to produce a hotter or warmer vape not necessarily a better ( flavor ) vape.
Do you like it warmer ? with the higher VG ratio's coils do tend to like a hotter vape.

 

[brickfollett]

See the thing is never been able to wrap my head around is why the amps increase as ohms decrease, even at the same Watt setting. I just don't understand why the same amount of power draws different amps at different ohms. That said, I religiously follow battery safety and have a full understanding of what to do and what not to do

 

[Vaya]

See the thing is never been able to wrap my head around is why the amps increase as ohms decrease, even at the same Watt setting. I just don't understand why the same amount of power draws different amps at different ohms. That said, I religiously follow battery safety and have a full understanding of what to do and what not to do

Wow. I'm so glad that I'm not the boy one who has spent perhaps more time than he should have trying to grapple with the logic of this reality.
If anyone could shed light on that gem... Well, I'd be most grateful!

 

[Train2]

You might think that 10 watts is 10 watts regardless of how you get there (lower ohms/lower volts, etc) - but it DOES vape a bit different.
See, to reach that lower 1.0 resistance, the coil is either thicker wire or a shorter length (less wraps) - either way, it means that it's "easier" (lower RESISTance) for the electricity to flow. And that means it gets hot faster.
Same reason sometimes I don't like a dual coil - the resistance is lower, but there's a LOT of metal to heat up, and there's a little lag...

Personally, I don't vape high watts - but I DO like a quick and warm vape, so even back when I was buying stock coils, I'd get the lower ohms one.

You should try both, and decide which one you prefer!

 

[brickfollett]

Lol I've tried them all, I run a 0.41 ohm dual 26 gauge coil on my trident v2. I like lighter gauge wire for the decreased spool time, but doesn't provide enough power to get the right vape for me. Also I'm no good at parallel coils unfortunately. The analogy makes sense though. At lower ohms with thicker wire, it definitely takes longer to spool I've noticed. 26 gauge strikes a good balance for me between power and spool time

 

[Justadude]

While I agree that more pg wicks better, I've used plenty of tanks with 100% vg and they do fine for the most part. Granted your coils may not last as long though. For rebuildables, the vg has been a barrier for me though, hard to perfect the wicking to get it to run at elevated watts

Agreed. I can run 90/10 in my Atlantis without any issues. But anything smaller than that like kangers I wouldn't go lower than 80/20 max.

 

[alicewonderland]

ohms law.

for watts
W = V x I
power = voltage x current

for amps
I = V / R
current=potential difference/resistance

when we combine these we get

W = V²/R

watts = volts squared / ohms

as you can see, the only constant in this equation is resistance, therefore, if either watts or volts change, the other must change as well. This is the downside of mechanicals due to volts being static, therefore you must build your coil to the power you want to output. With variable voltage and variable wattage devices, you can adjust the power you want to get out of the coil based on your vv/vw mods parameters. VV/VW mod users dont have to worry about building specific coils for an aimed power, as long as you build one within the parameters of the device. You can make a 0.5 ohm coil perform the same as a 2.0 ohm coil, the only difference would be surface area and distribution of heat, which is more technical and im too lazy to explain.

 

[BlkWolfMidnight]

Ask and Google shall deliver

Ohm

Basically what I've come to understand is that we are actually creating a resistor (Coil) on a closed circut system..if you were to take your volt meter and test the return circut back to your battery then you would notice a drop in voltage which is kind of cool really. That explains oHm's law and also how it all ties in together with your mod.

On a more geeky note, your mod is science in action, in the true state for the laws of conservation of energy, energy can not be created nor destroyed but it can be converted. In the case of your mod it is taking energy and converting it to heat which is really unique that its science at work.
The link below is just explaining the laws of conservation of energy, if your interested but I found it nifty anyways.

Conservation of energy - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[KenD]

See the thing is never been able to wrap my head around is why the amps increase as ohms decrease, even at the same Watt setting. I just don't understand why the same amount of power draws different amps at different ohms. That said, I religiously follow battery safety and have a full understanding of what to do and what not to do

On a regulated device the amp draw on the battery, at the same wattage, is the same whatever the resistance of the coil is. The amp draw increases as the battery charge drops though, as the battery needs to work harder to provide the current.

 

[KenD]

lower ohms mean you get lower voltage from the same wattage. IE: 1.8 coil@9watts= 4.02V , 1.0 coil@9watts=3V, if you run lower coil at the same watts youll notice a drop in performance.

if you raise the watts so you get the same voltage to each coil,
the difference is that you are pulling more amps from the battery.

1.8ohm@9w=4.02V =2.24Amps
1.0ohm@16.16w=4.02V =4.02Amps



its all about personal preference if you can really tell a difference between the resistances, personally I cant tell much difference and I just build coils and use random coils instead of aiming for lower ohms. VV/VW devices are nice in that you can adjust it based on the coils you stick on there rather than building a certain coil a certain way.

also, the lower resistances= the more amps u pull= the more stress is on the battery

I'm not sure if I understand you correctly, but at the same watts a lower ohm coil should perform more or less identical to a higher ohm coil (with some variation due to wire length and gauge). There shouldn't be any drop in performance with a lower ohm coil.

 

[alicewonderland]

On a regulated device the amp draw on the battery, at the same wattage, is the same whatever the resistance of the coil is. The amp draw increases as the battery charge drops though, as the battery needs to work harder to provide the current.

thats wrong, if you use the same wattage, amp draw increases if resistance is lowered.

W = I² x R

watts = amp draw squared x ohms

if you keep watts the same, the amp draw changes if the resistance changes.


ie: if you keep watts at 30,

0.5ohm coil @ 30 watts = 3.76V drawing, 7.75 amps

3.0ohm coil $ 30 watts = 9.9V drawing, 3.16 amps



this is the reason why if your resistance is too high, there wont be any current flowing through because of the 'resisting' force, if you dont have enough power to push through the 'resistance'.

hence also why super-subohming is dangerous. as you decrease in resistance (opening the channels for more energy flow), the current (amp draw) increases significantly, and you might be trying to push more current (amps) than your battery can handle before failing. Sort of like trying to push power out of a battery that it doesn't have, the battery will just fail under the stress because it cant keep up.

ie:

constant 100 watts different coils

0.4ohm coil @ 100watts = 15.82
0.3ohm coil @ 100watts = 18.25 amps (~2.43 increase)
0.2ohm coil @ 100watts = 22.37 amps (~4.12 increase)

as you can see, the current increases exponentially the lower resistance you go.

 

[catalinaflyer]

Lower resistance is essentially a bigger pipe for the water to flow through. If you attach a garden hose (think 3 ohm coil) to a fire hydrant then your only going to get X amount of water through it, now attach a 4" fire hose (.1 ohm coil) and your going to get exponentially more water through it.

The explanation the way I know how to write it would take pages.

The reason people went to sub-ohm was because the VV/VW devices on the market were new and very limited. People wanted to produce more vapor which required much more power being delivered to the coil to turn the liquid into vapor at a faster rate. Too much of either, liquid or heat and you get less than ideal results. Build a coil that's too hot and not delivering enough liquid and it burns, AKA the burnt hit. On the other side of the equation is too little heat for the amount of liquid and you get little to no vapor because there's enough mass in the juice to carry away the heat being produced by the coil without transforming it to vapor.

Manufacturers went to offering different resistance coils so that people could dial in their perfect (near perfect) vape temperature and volume by changing the coil. Now with the advent of variable wattage devices capable of 260 watts or more coming on the market there is little need for such a wide range of coils. I have a SMY 260 I'm using and there's little discernible difference on my Kanger Subtank between the .5 ohm coil and the 1.2 ohm coil at the same wattage. I get a little more flavor from the 1.2 and with no scientific way to measure the actual vapor density I don't see or feel a difference. The mod through the magic of manipulating electrons, protons, voodoo and other stuff makes changes to the way it delivers electricity to the coil to get the same wattage from either one.

Now don't go screwing a normal tank, atty etc. onto a high powered VW device and crank it up in hopes of getting more vapor. There's a sweet spot in EVERY atomizer no matter if it's a dripper or a top coil tank where they provide the right amount of juice to be properly atomized by the coil. You can fine tune for flavor, temperature etc. but each has their limitation as to how fast they can deliver juice to the coil to be turned into vapor. If you use the juice faster than it's being delivered your going to get a nasty burnt hit. If you don't use the minimum amount of power to vaporize the juice being delivered the vapor is going to get cooler and less pronounced till you get low enough where the coil is simply warming the juice and doing no vaporizing of it.

Personally I see no need what so ever for coils below 1.0 ohm's when using VW devices capable of 30 watts or more. The higher the resistance of the coil the more surface area to be heated allowing more juice to be vaporized. I have been playing with builds in my Origen RDA for a couple of weeks now and with my 260 I can get exponentially more vapor with a 2.0 ohm build than I can a .5 ohm. Of course the voltage (to get the same wattage) has to be cranked waaay up to get there. 10.9 volts on the 2.0 as opposed to 5.5 volts on the .5 to get the desired 60 watts. The down side is my Origen is a V1 which has wells machined into the deck and only holds about 1/3 as much juice as a V2 so at those insane amounts of vapor production it's a one (short) hit wonder before the juice is gone.

I'm glad my SMY advertises 260 watts but I could care less about wattage, it's all about how many volts a device is able to provide. Yes it says it will go to 260 watts but not with a 2 ohm coil, that would require 22.8 volts or double the standing voltage of the three batteries in series in the mod.

I hope I didn't talk in circles and confuse the original question. If your running a non-regulated battery (mod) then the lower resistance coil will provide more power, however if your using a VV/VW battery (mod) then you can adjust for the difference in resistance and essentially get the same heat (wattage) from either coil within the limitation of you device.

 

[KenD]

thats wrong, if you use the same wattage, amp draw increases if resistance is lowered.

W = I² x R

watts = amp draw squared x ohms

if you keep watts the same, the amp draw changes if the resistance changes.


ie: if you keep watts at 30,

0.5ohm coil @ 30 watts = 3.76V drawing, 7.75 amps

3.0ohm coil $ 30 watts = 9.9V drawing, 3.16 amps



this is the reason why if your resistance is too high, there wont be any current flowing through because of the 'resisting' force, if you dont have enough power to push through the 'resistance'.

hence also why super-subohming is dangerous. as you decrease in resistance (opening the channels for more energy flow), the current (amp draw) increases significantly, and you might be trying to push more current (amps) than your battery can handle before failing. Sort of like trying to push power out of a battery that it doesn't have, the battery will just fail under the stress because it cant keep up.

ie:

constant 100 watts different coils

0.4ohm coil @ 100watts = 15.82
0.3ohm coil @ 100watts = 18.25 amps (~2.43 increase)
0.2ohm coil @ 100watts = 22.37 amps (~4.12 increase)

as you can see, the current increases exponentially the lower resistance you go.

That's true for mech mods, and that's what the atty on a regulated mod sees. However, it's not true on the battery side of a regulated mod. I don't remember the equation but check steam-engine.org. Check regulated (wv) settings, input a specific wattage. You'll see that the amp draw of the battery stays the same whatever the resistance of the coil is. However, if you decrease the battery voltage (as the battery depletes) you'll see that the amp draw goes up.

 

[alicewonderland]

That's true for mech mods, and that's what the atty on a regulated mod sees. However, it's not true on the battery side of a regulated mod. I don't remember the equation but check steam-engine.org. Check regulated (wv) settings, input a specific wattage. You'll see that the amp draw of the battery stays the same whatever the resistance of the coil is. However, if you decrease the battery voltage (as the battery depletes) you'll see that the amp draw goes up.

the amp draw staying the same no matter the resistance of coil with constant watts makes no sense and breaks all the rules. I also checked the steam-engine.org site and the amp draw does increase as the resistance is reduced and vice versa. universally accepted laws and formulas in physics wouldnt exist if they weren't true you cant have two constants in a 3 variable formula, otherwise it would just be a constant and not a formula.

W = I² x R

watts = amps squared x ohms

edit: oh nevermind. i see what you're saying, whatever is the battery drain function on that page, im not 100% sure that page is true although im not well-versed into the details of battery functions. I dont know all the details in that. maybe im not looking at it as a system, havent got that far into my physics class yet. Maybe its the Battery Volts / Atomizer Resistance which would make sense, now Im curious need to look more into the inner workings of the chips they use to see what it actually does.

yeah i see it now nm, the potential difference between the circuit of the atomizer and the chip is what I was thinking of, I failed to look at the entire thing and was explaining the system as battery direct to atomizer, which makes you right. What I was explaining was typically just for mechs.

 

[KenD]

the amp draw staying the same no matter the resistance of coil with constant watts makes no sense and breaks all the rules. I also checked the steam-engine.org site and the amp draw does increase as the resistance is reduced and vice versa. universally accepted laws and formulas in physics wouldnt exist if they weren't true you cant have two constants in a 3 variable formula, otherwise it would just be a constant and not a formula.

W = I² x R

watts = amps squared x ohms

edit: oh nevermind. i see what you're saying, whatever is the battery drain function on that page, im not 100% sure that page is true although im not well-versed into the details of battery functions. I dont know all the details in that. maybe im not looking at it as a system, havent got that far into my physics class yet. Maybe its the Battery Volts / Atomizer Resistance which would make sense, now Im curious need to look more into the inner workings of the chips they use to see what it actually does.

yeah i see it now nm, the potential difference between the circuit of the atomizer and the chip is what I was thinking of, I failed to look at the entire thing and was explaining the system as battery direct to atomizer, which makes you right. What I was explaining was typically just for mechs.

I'm in no way an expert, but I think it's because the device draws more amps to increase the voltage above what the battery itself provides.