I just bought my ni200 OCC for my kanger submini from vaporstore and I noticed that its not turning on the Temp control. Its just firing using ohms. I don't know whats the problem but I think the One I bought is broken. Please help.
ni200 OCC for kanger submini
- Thread starter jigspuge14
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Have you set the temp at your desired limit, say *420. Pretty sure the DNA 40 chip in the Hana works like the VS. with the device locked, press the +&- together and hold until you see the temp settings, scroll to the temp you want to use.
Saw you already got nickel builds going!!
Saw you already got nickel builds going!!
Sometimes with the subtank coils, you really need to make sure the coil head is really tight on the base
Good tip! I finally got around to ordering some OCC nickel coils this week. Will definitely keep this in mind if I bump into any issues.
I haven't tried them yet myself, I just know with the nickel builds in general, it's all about solid connections. That being said, I know that the STM is finicky to begin with and the coils in general need to be sinched down pretty good. Also, without knowing it, sometimes when you try to clean out and dry the base, the 510 pin moves a little. Try to gently press it back up into the base and keep good contact with the coil. I know mine have a slight bit of play in them!
I've been using nickel build on my kayfun for the past 4 months at 450 but now on the OCC it doesnt work.
(
If you have been able to achieve success with that multi pieced contraption known as the v4 with nickel, I'm sure you can noodle the subtank!!
The subtank really needs either a fixed 510 or a stout spring loaded one to fire well and consistently. There have been quite a few people having trouble with tc on the subtank, and I suspect that's the reason. I could be completely wrong though lol. At the least, make sure that the coil head is really well screwed in.
this seems to make it work! thanks!
but I have a new problem. The voltage drops whenever I use. I set it to 26W and whenever I fire it drops to 10-8
so whats the point of getting to the recommended 25-40watts when it will just fire at 10w? haha
Set your temperature higher. On my Vaporshark rDNA40, I use an Atlantis 2 with a nickel coil. I have it set for the full 40 watts and the temperature set at 500 degrees. Temp protection doesn't kick in unless I take a really long vape of 8-10 seconds, and I never get a dry hit.
The problem you are running into is the fact that the Subtank doesn't do a very good job of wicking, so if you try vaping at higher wattages, the juice won't wick fast enough to cool down the coil so it quickly reaches your temp setting. If it wasn't for the temp protection kicking on, you would be getting a dry hit. The Atlantis coil has 4 wick holes versus 2 on the Subtank OCC. What Kanger really needs to do is to add two more wick holes to the Subtank OCC, especially if the redesigned OCC for the Subox now has vertical coils.
The problem you are running into is the fact that the Subtank doesn't do a very good job of wicking, so if you try vaping at higher wattages, the juice won't wick fast enough to cool down the coil so it quickly reaches your temp setting. If it wasn't for the temp protection kicking on, you would be getting a dry hit. The Atlantis coil has 4 wick holes versus 2 on the Subtank OCC. What Kanger really needs to do is to add two more wick holes to the Subtank OCC, especially if the redesigned OCC for the Subox now has vertical coils.
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