It takes more wraps to make a difference in the resistance. 2 wraps of kanthal will add like twice as much resistance as 2 wraps of N80.
Nichrome n80
- Thread starter Cheker
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Just checked on kanthal.com site:
resistivity of N80=1.09, Kanthal A1=1.45.
So, difference is big, but not two times big.
alien Traveler" data-source="post: 16425901" class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch">take into consideration- the difference in a sub-ohm build and not having a hand is even less difference than that..alien Traveler said:
I've had great luck with Lightning Vapes for wire, and love their NI80.
Well according to vape calculator 8/7 wrap around 2.5mm bit with 28ga n80 should get me right at 1 ohm. However they ALL read .5 no matter how many times I do it so I'm at a loss.
Sent from my QTAQZ3 using Tapatalk
Maybe your ohm meter is busted? Try a different build and see what it reads. 8 wraps at 2.5 sounds about right at 1 ohm.
Hans, no its a pro level multimeter its very accurate I'm not sure what's going on. I tried to vape one of the coils that read .5 and it was not vapeable. I've tried microcoils, spaced coils, more wraps, 2,2.5,3mm coils you name it nothing seems to work. Also tried on different atomizers, same result
Sent from my QTAQZ3 using Tapatalk
Sent from my QTAQZ3 using Tapatalk
Even Ferrari's break, do you have any way of testing it with another reader of VW mod with resistance display?
Where are you getting all that misinformation? I mean, yes, in that example it would have a lower resistance (somebody else already pointed out the difference in resistance), but that isn't why it ramps up more quickly (on a VW mod). It ramps up / heats up faster because its a different type of metal with a lower melting point, that is the easiest way to put it.
Why do you think a lower resistance build will get better battery life? On a VW mod the resistance makes no difference, and on a mech that would draw more power, resulting in less battery life.
Just lay out a length of the wire. Put the meter probes on it, and slide one probe down the sire, watching the resistance.
Once you get to the resistance you want, add an inch on either end and cut it.
Wind a coil with this wire (saving an inch on either end). If the coil you get doesn't measure properly, you might have the wrong wire (for example, it might not be forming the oxide layer necessary to insulate each turn from the next).
Once you get to the resistance you want, add an inch on either end and cut it.
Wind a coil with this wire (saving an inch on either end). If the coil you get doesn't measure properly, you might have the wrong wire (for example, it might not be forming the oxide layer necessary to insulate each turn from the next).
I would build them straight out of the posts. They will be offset, but you can turn the cap to get the holes to line up with the coils.
The resistance does make a difference on how many volts to push to the coils....
A .3 ohm coils uses 30% less power than a .5 ohm coil when using the same amount of watts.
A .3 ohm coils uses 30% less power than a .5 ohm coil when using the same amount of watts.
If you are building coils with a different length of wire in them and they are reading the same resistance, your meter is broken. I have a Fluke True RMS Multimeter. It's one of the best tools on the market as far as accuracy. Even it needs to be calibrated once in a while.
@Nick83
Something like this... That's an ugly build, but it was dark in that bar and it was the best I could do with a 6 pack in me.
- Status
Similar threads
