Nico-Stick Atomizer problem

[Mossman]

I didn't want to hijack the discussion thread with this problem, so I started a new thread.

I recently built a couple of Nicosticks (thanks to Wolf and all the cool folks here) and they work great.... For a while... The problem is; they utterly DESTROY atomizers within a day or two.

I'm using TrustFire 14500 3.7V 900mAh protected batteries, and the "N-size" coax DC jack from Rat Shack with 901 attys.

At first, I thought it was just a bum atomizer, but I've gone through 5 of them now, in less than 2 weeks! Granted, I've been using them pretty much exclusively, but the longest an atty has lasted has been about 2 and half days... Sometimes, the atty dies before the battery does...

Any ideas on what the problem might be?

 

[Lucacri]

Check if your positive connection inside the connector doesn't touch the external casing.
Also, check that your button doesn't fire off for mistake and stays on

 

[Shreck]

also sometimes you may have to gently pry the center connection on the atty up so it will make contact with the connector..

Im willin to bet it is a connection problem, unless you have checked them for continuity and get nothing..

 

[Mossman]

Well, it's not a connector problem... One of the first things I did when I built these things was add solder to the end of the pin of the connector, so it makes contact with the atty... And I have continuity, with no shorts... The device works like a champ, but the attys just don't hold up for more than a couple of days. I made two of these, and they both kill attys in record time.

Here's a pic of one of them, so you can see the wiring.

As you can see, nothing is making contact with anything it shouldn't... If that were the case, it would short itself out... I originally thought the output of the battery may be too much for the atty to take, but I'm using the same battery as everyone else, and I seem to be the only one having this problem.

 

[happily]

from this angle the positive looks likes it connected to ground but I cant tell what connecter you are using

I should say + and- both look connect outside but cant see the connector well

 

[Shreck]

It shouldnt matter where + or - goes . you said you put a blob of solder on the center of connector. Is it pushing the center connector of the atty in too far and shorting it out to the outside of connector.. First I guess i should ask. do you have a multimeter or Ohmmeter and have you checked the attys to see if there is resistance or they really do have a broken wire in them? Thats the only way I usually tell if it is the atty or something else.
If you dont have a meter, try turning the atty onto the connectors slowly, with the switch held down and see if you hear it start to sizzle before it gets all the way tight. The dc jack connectors have given me numerous problems as well.
Other than that, if it is blowing the attys.. my advice is too always keep the attys a little wet, dont ever drip onto a hot atty and dont let the atty get too hot. ( I usually check with my lip to see how hot its getting, too hot for lip then its too hot). If you are using carts strictly it may not be getting enuff juice on the atty fast enough..

 

[crazyhorse]

I had a similar problem. I killed ten 801 atomizers in five weeks. I solved the problem by getting rid of my airtight connection to allow some airflow through the connector. Since making that simple change, two atomizers have lasted six weeks and counting.

 

[CanyonRunner]

It shouldnt matter where + or - goes . you said you put a blob of solder on the center of connector. Is it pushing the center connector of the atty in too far and shorting it out to the outside of connector..

Looks like you have the atty screwed down almost completely, this could be your problem. Could you remove the atty, and take a picture of the center connector?

I have also thought that the center connector of the atty might be twisting as the atty is tightened, breaking the wire inside...

 

[warp1900]

Your problem is the blob of solder you added to the connector pin, it is pushing way to far and making the atty short inside the metal casing.
You didn't need to add that, it will make perfect connection.
That particular connector is very good at that, it does make a very good contact with no modification.
Remove it and you will see that your problem will be no more.

Air flow, not a problem, 901 does not depend on the connector for it, since it has a hole in the side for that purpose, and that is what you are using a 901.

Crazyhorse has a theory about 801s that die because of lack of air, but i vape everyday on 801, hole plugged and never had a problem.

 

[Mossman]

you said you put a blob of solder on the center of connector. Is it pushing the center connector of the atty in too far and shorting it out to the outside of connector..

You may have a point there... I hadn't really considered that. I didn't think the inner contact of the atomizer would move at all... I just figured that once it made contact with the center pin, it wouldn't screw down any further. I can get a pair of tweezers in there, and there is a fair amount of give... On closer inspection, I have a better idea of how these are put together.

First I guess i should ask. do you have a multimeter or Ohmmeter and have you checked the attys to see if there is resistance or they really do have a broken wire in them? Thats the only way I usually tell if it is the atty or something else.

Yeah, I have a meter... I'm not reading any resistance from any of them... To be honest, I didn't check them on the meter until now... I arrived at my conclusion through a process of elimination... I knew the batteries were charged, and I could make a 510 atty work (you have to get a little fiddley with it, and hold it in place, but it works) so I knew it wasn't the device itself...

Your problem is the blob of solder you added to the connector pin, it is pushing way to far and making the atty short inside the metal casing.
You didn't need to add that, it will make perfect connection.
That particular connector is very good at that, it does make a very good contact with no modification.
Remove it and you will see that your problem will be no more.

Well, I tried it without the solder when I built the first one, and it wasn't making contact... Also, I remembered reading in one of the threads here (I don't remember who said it) that a blob of solder was needed, because the pin doesn't quite reach without it... So, I added the solder, and viola... Problem solved...

And another problem created...

 

[warp1900]

You may have a point there... I hadn't really considered that. I didn't think the inner contact of the atomizer would move at all... I just figured that once it made contact with the center pin, it wouldn't screw down any further. I can get a pair of tweezers in there, and there is a fair amount of give... On closer inspection, I have a better idea of how these are put together.




Yeah, I have a meter... I'm not reading any resistance from any of them... To be honest, I didn't check them on the meter until now... I arrived at my conclusion through a process of elimination... I knew the batteries were charged, and I could make a 510 atty work (you have to get a little fiddley with it, and hold it in place, but it works) so I knew it wasn't the device itself...



Well, I tried it without the solder when I built the first one, and it wasn't making contact... Also, I remembered reading in one of the threads here (I don't remember who said it) that a blob of solder was needed, because the pin doesn't quite reach without it... So, I added the solder, and viola... Problem solved...

And another problem created...

The problem is with other types of connectors,(mostly factory connectors between different manufacturers), not with the "N-size" coax DC jack from Rat Shack.

If before you added to the center post it was not making connection, it is because it was not screwing all the way, unless you are using some type of 901 atomizer that i don't know of and the center hole is bigger than the N jack connector's center post.
I doubt it, but could be possible.

Anyway, you think that pushing the center contact on the atomizer doesn't cause any damage, but it does for sure, remember that it is only being held by a silicone ring and it is pretty flexible, you can keep pushing and it will end up inside the atomizer.
Don't try it lol, i learned the hard way myself.

I have seen differences in atomizers form different suppliers, but never seen one that would have that kind of contact problem with the N jack.

Good luck anyways and please don't forget to post as soon as you figure it out, it's always good to know all the variables possible.

 

[framitz]

I added a bit of solder to the contact in my first 901 mod. I added a spring on my second mod, and on my third mod I ground a little off the end of the N jack connector. All work just fine. Two of the three did not make contact at all prior to modifying the N jack connector.

The one with the solder and the one that I ground make contact and will only go about another 1/4 turn before tight. But I turn them just until I feel them snug down (make contact) and no further. I use BE901 attys, so I can only speak for the BE models.

I like the spring best, I tightened the coil that's on the bottom so it stays put, then placed a length of heat shrink tubing around it to be sure it doesn't short out, this one hits the best because the hole in the center is open so a little air can take the alternate path. No atty failures on any of the three at all so far.

By no resistance at all do you mean open (infinite) or short (zero)?

 

[warp1900]

on a third look at your picture, i noticed that the atomizer is screwed all the way in...very strange, since that connector doesn't allow th eatty to go that far. normally you will have about 1/8" before the end of the thread...

 

[framitz]

Even with the threaded part of the connector ground down I still have about 1 to 1.5 mm space between the atty and connector.

Good eye Warp.

 

[warp1900]

Even with the threaded part of the connector ground down I still have about 1 to 1.5 mm space between the atty and connector.

Good eye Warp.

Yeah i didn't notice it until staring at ti for a while

Interesting that you also had to modify the jack, i have ordered 901s from 4 different suppliers and never happened to me.
But then again, who knows how many manufacturers there are, and how many times they have changed subtly.

 

[warp1900]

RUSH!

 

[crazyhorse]

Crazyhorse has a theory about 801s that die because of lack of air, but i vape everyday on 801, hole plugged and never had a problem.

Alteration of airflow is actually more precise to this theory. There may have been a subtle difference in the design of my airtight connector that caused the problem.

 

[Kewtsquirrel]

I had to cut off a fair bit of threads on every single size-N jack for the atomizer to make contact with the center pin, and yes, if you screw it down too far you'll short out the atomizer, the only thing keeping the positive and negative connections separate is a very thin silicone membrane, it doesn't take too much pressure to move it enough to short them.

Try cutting down the threads, or using actual battery connectors, just cut open a battery with a dremel and pull it out.

 

[four2109]

All I did with mine was spread the 2 pieces of the center contact slightly with a small screwdriver. Works great.
Be careful not to overtighten when fiddling with the cart.
I have that switch on my 801 box, and it is a pain, have to push it just right to make contact.

 

[Mossman]

I didn't notice the silicone ring until I took a closer look at the atty last night, and started fiddling around with it with a pair of tweezers... I mean, logically, I knew there must be some kind of insulation in there, keeping the center piece from making contact with the outer shell, but I didn't know there was so much flex in the insulation.. I'll be careful not to tighten the atty so much the next time.

There must be slight variances in either the DC connectors or the attys... It would take much... Even a .001" gap is still a gap... With both of the connectors I used, it would not make contact until I added a bit of solder to it. I just added too much...

By no resistance at all do you mean open (infinite) or short (zero)?

They're all shorted, except for one (or two, maybe).

RUSH!

Heheh... Nice... Another "Rushian" in the house!