Not sure which question to ask.

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on3fifth

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Ok I have a device that can do 3.7v, 6v and 7.4v. I really have fell in love with 6 volts and the throat and taste is really there. Sadly I just blew out the only atty that will run at 6volts which blows within a week also. But I have 2 other atty's that are 3.2 ohms and the will not run at 6volts but run at 3.7v & 7.4v why is that? I really am not a fan of 7.4v it seems to just burn the juice to quickly and not taste as good as 6v. Can anyone give a suggestion for a good atty for 6 volts?
and how did I just blow a atty without any kinda of notice? I walked away from my PV and when I got back it was not firing this sucks. Being a vapor user is really confusing and sometimes too much work.
 

Hoosier

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Here is what I am not getting through my thick head with your question...

How can the same atty work at 3.7 and 7.4, but not 6? (I am assuming a 18650 for 3.7, and stacked 3V for 6V or stacked 3.7V for 7.4 to change voltages, so the threading remains the same.)

Roughly, very roughly as I do not know the C rating of your batteries, the 3.2 Ohm atty will produce 17 Watts at 7.4 volts, 11 Watts at 6 volts, and 4 Watts at 3.7 volts. Since I vape in the 8-12 Watt region myself, I can see the 3.2 Ohm working for you at 6 volts.

(May want to double check all your connections and battery charge levels...)
 

on3fifth

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Ok you lost me.. I will vape at 7.4 volts but don't want to burn another atty as I have to order more. So I can Vape using my 3.2 ohm attys on 7.4v? I know I can blow attys on even 3.7 volts. Also yes I am stacking 2 16340 3.7vs to make 7.4volts. Ok I just went crossed eyed.

I am having a tough time vaping at 3.7 volts there is no throat hit. Wondering if I can vape my 3.2ohm attys at 7.4 volts until I get more attys in?
Also do you recommend any attys for 6 volt vaping?

PS all connections are fine and freshly charged batteries.
 
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Maximillian

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Heyas folks,

First of all, let me say that I have NO eperience with this type of mod. But, two possibilities spring to mind (both of which may be wildly inaccurate :p ).

One, maybe the 3.7v batt and the stacked 3.7v batts are a bit longer, and when the device is assembled push the center pin up a bit?

Two, if the 3v's are protected and the 3.7v stackables are high drain, maybe the protection ckt is cutting in on the 3vs?

Like I said, just wild guesses :p


Maximillian the Vaguely Disreputable
 

Hoosier

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Actually, one of the points of my post is being missed. Volts is rather meaningless.

Watts=Heat=Throat Hit and Volts are just one part of Watts.

Watt=Volts * Current. Current is limited by what the battery can supply either by its chemistry and/or protection circuit. It takes a much better battery than the cheap Li-Ions to give much more than a single amp of current.

You did not say what the resistance of the atty you used, and liked, at 6 volts. With that information, it is just a matter of matching the threads and resistance for the next atty purchase to use at 6 volts.

I am currently running a 1.5 Ohm atty at 4.0 volts ~ 11 Watts. Yesterday I was using a 2.5 Ohm atty at 5 volts ~ 10 Watts. The lower voltage today is a bit warmer than I had yesterday at a higher voltage. (My batteries can supply 2.5 amps, so I know my Wattage figures are good in this range too.)

And, yes, at this range of heat, typically attys will pop often. I am a heavy vapor and I use the best attys I can get my hands on and I still pop attys quicker than most. Just one of the effects of vaping warmer.
 

on3fifth

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WOW I know you are trying to help but watts and volts is really confusing me. How would I even begin to know watts I am at? So far 4.5ohms a 6 volts was awesome but I blew the atty somehow. So the best option is just keeping backup attys which makes sense but can be expensive. I am saving my order till I find out what attys are the best and just sticking with 3.7 volts but again seems like I am vaping air and does not give me any throat hit at all. Could it be because I am using a atty of too much resistance @ 3.7 volts? (3.2 ohms)
 

BiancaMontgomery

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The protection circuit in your batts could also be tripping when you try to use your device at 6v with that atty.

3ohm Boge cartomizers pretty much rock at 6v. :) You might try the 3ohm Boge carto tank (Chibi tank) from ParkesVaping. It's an $8 tank, so if you end up not likng it, you're not out too much. Need a needle to fill it, but it's very easy. If you need any help, just PM me. :) Best wishes to you!
 

MustangSallie

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Let's break it down like this.

Your perfect vape is a 4.5ohm atty at 6 volts - that = 8 watts. Most people seem to like 8 watts, so it's no surprise that you like it too.

That same atty at 7 volts - 10.9 watts and at 3.7v = only 3.2 watts.

Now, take your 3.5ohm atty. At 7volts that's 14 watts. Very hot. At 3.7v it's only 3.9 watts. Very cool.

So, in order to match your perfect vaping experience on a 4.5ohm atty at 6 watts...

At 3.7volts you would need either a 1.5ohm atty for 9.1 watts or a 2ohm atty for 6.8 watts vaping.

At 7 volts you would need a 6ohm atty for 8.2 watt vaping.

Hope that helps.
 
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Baldr

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Wattage = Voltate * Voltage divided by resistance.

W = V^2/R

4.5ohms a 6 volts was awesome

The wattage there would be 6 * 6 / 4.5 = 8 watts.

Also, a rule of thumb I've heard several times is that your cartomizer/atomizer should be roughly your voltage - 2. So at 6 volts, 4 ohms is good. At 7.4, 5.4 would be good. At 3.4 volts, you use a low resistance thing in the 1.4 range. It's not exact, at all, just sort of a ballpark that you can estimate easily.
 
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