O-rings and Cap/Bottom fit on RM2

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FAAmecanic

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I need to do the "oring" trick on my Cap and bottom of my RM2 due to the airhole being mis-aligned quite a bit. Will the 10mm X 1mm Oring fit around the bottom of the atty? If not anyone have any idea where I can get orings (and size) that will fit.

Other than this issue I am liking the RM2 on my VV Grand A LOT! It has replaced my mainstay of an IGO-W that has kept me happy for the last 6 months. Its sooooo wonderful to not have to constantly remove the mouthpiece and drip every 3rd vape or so.

Thanks!
 

pdib

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Another thing I've done, when the o-ring sizes don't work, is to wrap sewing thread around there. The cap is mostly on, leaving a gap, then I wrap thread (6-7 times around), tighten cap and test alignment . . . . . no? . . . . a few more wraps, then single hitch knot, tighten down the cap and snip off excess. This tends to hold until about the next re-wicking.
 

FACE MEAT

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You can also stretch an o-ring around the milled underside of the RM2 like this:
10891713853_ceb1b6460a_c.jpg


I like a beefier o-ring for this because it'll give more air hole placement options. As an added bonus, it hides the gap between the edge of the catch cup and the milled underside of the RM2.
 

Kristian

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You can also stretch an o-ring around the milled underside of the RM2 like this:
10891713853_ceb1b6460a_c.jpg


I like a beefier o-ring for this because it'll give more air hole placement options. As an added bonus, it hides the gap between the edge of the catch cup and the milled underside of the RM2.

Hey FACE MEAT, what size o-ring is that? I think that might be the answer to the problems I have been having.
 

Treebeard

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You can also stretch an o-ring around the milled underside of the RM2 like this:
10891713853_ceb1b6460a_c.jpg


I like a beefier o-ring for this because it'll give more air hole placement options. As an added bonus, it hides the gap between the edge of the catch cup and the milled underside of the RM2.

O-rings aside for a moment, that RM2 is knocking my socks off, WOW! What is that finish there, F M?
 

FAAmecanic

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Shoot... I bought my REO vv used, and while it works great, you can tell it's a working mans REO. Would love to refinish it.. but would have to remove the electronics.

Anyone know how hard this would be?

pm sent to FM! I must do this to my REO! Thread if before and after pics to come soon :)

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2
 
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rudy4653

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You can also stretch an o-ring around the milled underside of the RM2 like this:
10891713853_ceb1b6460a_c.jpg


I like a beefier o-ring for this because it'll give more air hole placement options. As an added bonus, it hides the gap between the edge of the catch cup and the milled underside of the RM2.

I did this as well! Makes the look more complete without the gap on the bottom. Also as mentioned alot more flexibility for alignment. You can just get orings at Home Depot!! That's where I got mine. Just brought my REO with me and tried different sizes. Got a few that are nice and thick and stretched over bottom of RM2. believe anywhere from 7-10mm can't remember but wide range will fit depending on how much you want to stretch. Voila! You can get tonite instaed of order & wait!! :)
 

FAAmecanic

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I guess that on the OUTSIDE using a regular O-ring is fine. but I would think internal orings would have to be food grade?

So the Oring in FM's picture is just stretched around the base of the RM 2 and pushed flush against the dripwell top? So would you then NOT need the oring in the dripwell? I would guess not being as no airflow will get around that oring and no juice will seep out either.
 

rudy4653

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I guess that on the OUTSIDE using a regular O-ring is fine. but I would think internal orings would have to be food grade?

So the Oring in FM's picture is just stretched around the base of the RM 2 and pushed flush against the dripwell top? So would you then NOT need the oring in the dripwell? I would guess not being as no airflow will get around that oring and no juice will seep out either.

Correct.
This will give you flexibility of where your airhole ends up. Should always be pointed up as you vape. It will however not adjust where the airhole lines up with the coil. That should line up as the top is threaded to match the bottom. You should be able to stick a pin thru the airhole and hit your coil.
 

FACE MEAT

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Hey FACE MEAT, what size o-ring is that? I think that might be the answer to the problems I have been having.

I have no idea what size it is. I bought an o-ring kit from Home Depot that has a bunch of different sizes.

As long as it's got more girth than the o-ring supplied by rob and will stretch around the milled underside of the RM2, it will work.
 

FACE MEAT

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for those who are wondering, this is how it was done:

The spray paint was Rust-Oleum "Hammered" paint. I sanded the RM2 cap down to brass using 800 grit sandpaper. I cleaned the cap very well using acetone to remove any residual oils. I inserted a cheap plastic drip tip into the RM@ to act as a handle and to prevent spray paint from getting inside the cap. I gave it two coats of spraypaint. Be careful to hold the RM2 cap about 12" away from the spray paint nozzle. This will give the best look. I baked it in the oven at 200 for an hour.
 

FAAmecanic

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Correct.
This will give you flexibility of where your airhole ends up. Should always be pointed up as you vape. It will however not adjust where the airhole lines up with the coil. That should line up as the top is threaded to match the bottom. You should be able to stick a pin thru the airhole and hit your coil.

That's the issue I have. When my cap screws down it's about 40deg off the coil.

FM... was thinking about doing the rustoleum treatment to my whole VV Grand. I got it used and its pretty nicked up. I will have to pm rob to see how hard it would be to remove the electronics from it if you have to bake it.

I will also probably put a few coats of clear coat on it to protect the finish.

This message sent from Mars! Isn't it lovely!
 
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