OBS Crius RTA?

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jj6404

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I am using it as a single coil atty right now and it easily handles 50 watts. With dual coils it will obviously handle much higher watts. You just need a little to go into the channels but nothing going into the circles...that's whats chocking it off. This is easiest atty to build and wick....it is very forgiving.
I'm starting to think that I just have a defective Crius. So I've been wicking it the way you described for the past few days and still dry hits galore. Tonight I tried putting more cotton into the circles where you can actually see a little and I am getting less dry hits but still some nonetheless.

I emailed Wetvapes a couple days ago because when I got mine the top cap was scratched. They asked for me to send a pic and they would send a replacement. I hope this replacement will wick easier.

I'm no beginner. I fiddled with the Billow V2 for months getting it to wick correctly and from all I've seen and read the Crius is supposed to be much more forgiving. Even at 45 watts I can't seem to get it to vape without dry hits every other hit. I'm pausing at least 10 seconds between hits too and watching bubbles come out of the wicking holes. Earlier on a drive while I was using it and getting dry hits it actually started leaking out of the airholes. I was ....... Dry hits and leaking? Almost threw it out the window if I didn't value my evic vtc mini so much.

My dual spaced 24g SS build comes out to 0.14 ohms. The low resistance shouldn't be a problem right? I'm vaping it at 45-50 watts with TC at 470 degrees and watching it it rarely gets close to temp so I know that's not the problem. Even vaping it 40 watts in power mode gives me dry hits. So disappointed...


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izen

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@jj6404 - fwiw, I'd posted very clear wicking info. But you were very clear in responding that you have the wicking covered. Ok, nice. Personally I don't use TC, though my mod is capable. I won't vape nickel, I know what it is. Don't care to vape Ti, and I've been lead to believe that SS TC isn't necessarily ready for prime time. I run power mode always. Happy with Kanthal, have vaped SS in my Crown... So? You're running a .14 ohm coil @ 40 watts. Really? ... If the wicking is good, why not double or triple that power and see what happens.
 

JMarca

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The Crius if you notice a slow leak it could be a broken insulator. Empethsis on the word could, if you have the opposite problem and getting dry hits I guarantee you you're doing something wrong. The dry hits are from the cotton not wicking fast enough to get juice into the coils. The problem we're having is the broken insulator but the dry hits are positively a build problem. I'm waiting on my 3rd one from GearBest the first 2 are v3s one cracked one not. NONE of them give dry hits if anything the opposite.
 
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JMarca

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no cracked insulator on mine.. are they all cracked or is this pretty much hit or miss at this point? im sure obs will release a v4 next week:lol:
Hit or miss, but honestly I don't think the insulator leads to leaking because none of mine are leaking in the traditional sense, more like sweating some out over time. Some would still consider leaking but since it's top fed it could just be a little bit of air trapped in the tank forcing small amounts out over time.
 

Hightech Redneck

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Depending on the wicking and the severity of the Crack it can definitely lead to leaking. If the Crack is vertical and fairly open juice will follow the Crack into the afc cavity. Some of the pics of broken insulators I have seen have cracked bad enough that pieces are missing. If running high power we all know you get some pop while vaping so small amounts are popping onto the deck following the break....... Anyway some of the cracks may not run full height of the insulator. I shouldn't drink and post lol.
 

izen

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I'm the one who's been tossing around the term "sweating", and probably more than anyone else here. My insulator is fine. I don't get dry hits. I haven't experienced any significant amount of liquid on the outside of my tank to call it (or whatever is exactly happening) a leak. I'm as careful as I can be. Haven't had any mishaps or accidents. Sometimes it goes for more than 24 hrs, "bone dry"... and then, every once in a while I'll find some "moisture" on the exterior bottom of the tank... not a lot, just a bit, just a little bit (lol). So I've referred to it as sweating. Maybe it's a s-l-o-w, microscopic leak (but I don't think so). Maybe it's condensation from the AFC. I'm more inclined to believe that. But honestly, I don't really care. Nice tank, I've had fun with it. And yes you're correct, tanks don't sweat from their pores (which they don't have) they sweat from their openings, if they "sweat" at all.
 
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JMarca

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I'm the one who's been tossing around the term "sweating", and probably more than anyone else here. My insulator is fine. I don't get dry hits. I haven't experienced any significant amount of liquid on the outside of my tank to call it (or whatever is exactly happening) a leak. I'm as careful as I can be. Haven't had any mishaps or accidents. Sometimes it goes for more than 24 hrs, "bone dry"... and then, every once in a while I'll find some "moisture" on the exterior bottom of the tank... not a lot, just a bit, just a little bit (lol). So I've referred to it as sweating. Maybe it's a s-l-o-w, microscopic leak (but I don't think so). Maybe it's condensation from the AFC. I'm more inclined to believe that. But honestly, I don't really care. Nice tank, I've had fun with it. And yes you're correct, tanks don't sweat from their pores (which they don't have) they sweat from their openings, if they "sweat" at all.
I honestly like the term, because it should be noted that there is a big difference between what's happening here and traditional leaking. Mine will get a little moisture over time no right away and it takes a while to get there while leaking is just what it sounds like.
 
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arh32

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I'm the one who's been tossing around the term "sweating", and probably more than anyone else here. My insulator is fine. I don't get dry hits. I haven't experienced any significant amount of liquid on the outside of my tank to call it (or whatever is exactly happening) a leak. I'm as careful as I can be. Haven't had any mishaps or accidents. Sometimes it goes for more than 24 hrs, "bone dry"... and then, every once in a while I'll find some "moisture" on the exterior bottom of the tank... not a lot, just a bit, just a little bit (lol). So I've referred to it as sweating. Maybe it's a s-l-o-w, microscopic leak (but I don't think so). Maybe it's condensation from the AFC. I'm more inclined to believe that. But honestly, I don't really care. Nice tank, I've had fun with it. And yes you're correct, tanks don't sweat from their pores (which they don't have) they sweat from their openings, if they "sweat" at all.
My mt-rta does this and i think its just from the coils being above the air hole. The coil pops after time it just comes out of the air hole a bit. No big but kind of sucks. If i knew how to fix it.....was thinking about raising my coil next build and seeing if this helps.
 

jj6404

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@jj6404 - fwiw, I'd posted very clear wicking info. But you were very clear in responding that you have the wicking covered. Ok, nice. Personally I don't use TC, though my mod is capable. I won't vape nickel, I know what it is. Don't care to vape Ti, and I've been lead to believe that SS TC isn't necessarily ready for prime time. I run power mode always. Happy with Kanthal, have vaped SS in my Crown... So? You're running a .14 ohm coil @ 40 watts. Really? ... If the wicking is good, why not double or triple that power and see what happens.

So... I tried vaping my 0.14 ohm build at 60 and 50 watts and yeah, got monster dry hits. So I don't think I'm going to try 80 or 120 lol. I'm on my 8th rewick now on my 5th rebuild with this tank and still getting dry hits on one 4 second hit at 45 watts... This time I went back to the original method I tried and just barely placed the wick ends in the juice channels. .... organic cotton just thick enough to slide through the coils with barely any resistance. I'm really lost here. The holes do line up with the channels btw. I just don't get how this isn't working for me. I'm not sure what to try next.
 

izen

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@jj6404 - Wish I knew more to volunteer. Never experienced what you're going through with this tank. Mine's been a pleasure. The only thing I like more is using an RDA. I'm abandoning all my tanks (Crown & Crius), just to stick with dripping, but the tanks have been good to me. Hey, silly question for you, but, are you sure you have the juice flow control open? (I know, I know) Don't know what else to ask or say... Trust me, It's a fine tank when it works like it should. GL with your replacement !!!
 

FrankDaTank

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So... I tried vaping my 0.14 ohm build at 60 and 50 watts and yeah, got monster dry hits. So I don't think I'm going to try 80 or 120 lol. I'm on my 8th rewick now on my 5th rebuild with this tank and still getting dry hits on one 4 second hit at 45 watts... This time I went back to the original method I tried and just barely placed the wick ends in the juice channels. .... organic cotton just thick enough to slide through the coils with barely any resistance. I'm really lost here. The holes do line up with the channels btw. I just don't get how this isn't working for me. I'm not sure what to try next.
Is your mod running hot? Does the resistance fluctuate at all? You seem knowledgable so I'm thinking out of the box here.
 

jj6404

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@jj6404 - Wish I knew more to volunteer. Never experienced what you're going through with this tank. Mine's been a pleasure. The only thing I like more is using an RDA. I'm abandoning all my tanks (Crown & Crius), just to stick with dripping, but the tanks have been good to me. Hey, silly question for you, but, are you sure you have the juice flow control open? (I know, I know) Don't know what else to ask or say... Trust me, It's a fine tank when it works like it should. GL with your replacement !!!

You mean where the circles are silver? Lol, yes they are fully open... I've even resorted to closing the AFC off and take some hard puffs to prime it just so I can vape it without getting dry hits for a hit or two... Yeah, about my replacement, WetVapes emailed me back three days after my inquiry, asked me to reply with pictures, did immediately, and I haven't heard from them for days. I'm pretty disappointed with their customer service or at least their response time after all the good I've heard about them.

Is your mod running hot? Does the resistance fluctuate at all? You seem knowledgable so I'm thinking out of the box here.

I've been using my Crius mostly on my Evic VTC Mini and a few times on my VT200 and I get the same poor results on both mods. The resistance doesn't fluctuate but by a hundredth on the evic every now and then. I don't think it's running hot. Prior to the Crius I was using my Crown with SS 0.25 coils in TC at same temp and wattage in both evic and VT200 back and forth. I know the Crown isn't a good example because of the nickel-legged coils of the SS coil heads, but I also ran the Crown in power mode in both mods interchangeably at 60 watts with the same results. So, yeah, I don't think my mod is running hot.

The only thing I can think of doing now is using even less cotton. I just can't believe that I would have to use even less cotton than the Billow V2 to wick the Crius. That damn tank is so picky with its wicking and I believe I mastered that. I really didn't expect this trouble from all I've heard about the Crius.

Maybe I'll try a regular old Kanthal build in it next. I don't see how the wire and/or resistance could be the problem if the wattage is maintained at a reasonable level but who knows... I just don't think I'll be satisfied with the flavor from a Kanthal build anymore.
 

jefx

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Which antiperspirant are you guys using for your Crius?

:banana:

Lol!

I've seen the term "sweating" used quite often, not just by izen. And not just in this thread.

It seems it has become a term for "acceptable, low amounts of leakage".

Condensation, like what happens to the outside of a glass of ice water on a hot day, is the formation of water droplets caused by drastic changes in temperature of air.

Condensation on the inside of a tank is fully reasonable and can be seen when using a glass drip tip. But moisture on the bottom of a tank (unless it is actually water) is a leak, even if it is a small amount.
 
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