Official fix for the aspire heads (est pyrex version mainly)

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Bawn

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Nov 18, 2011
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boynton beach, FL
Ok ladies and gents i have spent countless hours trying to figure out how to make this wick better because i really want it to work. I finally found a way after very many hours here is what needs to be done.

First off your going to need to drill both holes to start on the ets. Not very big, just bigger then whats there. you may need to drill 3 maybe even 4th if you like a more airy draw (explained at the bottom).1/32 (i think) or smaller drill bit works fine. just as long as its a hair bigger then whats there. dont go too big because you can drill too wide and ruin the bottom threads. if your worried about this you can drill on the two other sides that dont have any holes. i drilled bigger holes on the opposite sides and a little higher to steer clear of any threading. i cant tell you what i used because none of my bits are labeled, but it was a very small bit. you can try and do this build without drilling any holes first. if you find its gurgley you will need to drill at least 1 hole larger. image.jpg

Once you have the one hole drilled out you will move to essentially tweaking the head. Here is how its done.

Step 1. Take a clean head and screw into the base of the ets (cleaned dry base)

step 2. Get a pair of needle nose pliers and very gently wiggle the metal cap off the head. Screwing it into the base allows you to keep the bottom threads in tacked as appose to using two sets of pliers.

Step3. Once you have the cap off the filler material may or may have not come off with the metal cap. Take that filler material and throw it as far as it will go, you no longer need it.

Step4. You now have the coils exposed and they are nice and pearly white. Take some cotton. Twist it so its thick but not to thick, it needs to fit in between the top and bottom coil. The cotton has to touch both coils in order for both coil wicks to get saturated. In between your fingers twist one end of the cotton as thin as you can get it.

Step5. Feed the cotton in between the top and bottom coil and pull it through.
IMG_1171.jpgIMG_1172.jpg

step6. Trim the excess but leave some hanging over the edge of the head. This allows the cotton to soak up the liquid from the two holes on the metal top cap.
IMG_1173.jpgIMG_1174.jpg

step7. Replace the top cap, but make sure the two holes are lined up with the two slots the bottom wick protrudes from. Make sure the excess cotton folds down also blocking those two holes. This allows the liquid to flow into that hole a little, but soaks the cotton which is touching both wick and coils.

Step8. Prime it with a few drops from the top once the cap is replaced. Fill tank and let it sit for a few mintues.


Your done. Enjoy your vape. It works fantastically with 50/50 juice no gurgling, no leaking no nothing. If you find your getting gurgles, you can drill out a 3rd or 4th hole if you like that airy draw to help with pulling less liquid into the head. I am not sure if this would work well with 100% pg or even 80/20vg. I just know that it works well with 50/50. I can see it working well with 100% vg.

Try it and i hope its success as it is for me. Been through 1 full tank with zero issues. The down fall is you will have to do this with all your new heads, but hey at least it works.
 
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Bawn

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Nov 18, 2011
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the metal cap is the main cap that houses everything inside. very easy just wiggle with some pliers comes right off. just do it gently without denting or damaging the cap. its just as hard/easy as pulling off the center tube on a protank head. just make sure you screw then head in the base first. hold the base in one hand and grab the top metal cap with the pliers and wiggle. to put the cap back on, you slide it as tight as you can with your hands. then hold it upside down and use a firm base like a table to push the cap back on.
 
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Bawn

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Nov 18, 2011
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boynton beach, FL
as i approached my the of my second refill i got the gurggles. i pulled the base plate off and blew the head and fixed the issue. however without refilling it it started to flood again. so i drilled the second hole out, and i drilled a 3rd hole in the base to allow more air through. blew out the head again refilled it. problem solved. so your gonna have to drill out both holes at least if not 3. you can also make the first 2 holes larger. try not to let the tank get super low on juice cause it will prob gurgle just like the protank heads usually do as your approach the end of the juice.

this is where i drilled the 3rd hole.
image23.jpg

might even drill a 4th hole to get some mad vapor.

edit** drilled a fourth hole but made it twice the size as the others. much better more of a airy draw great vapor. still wicks like a champ 1.8ohm head at 4.8v

23212.jpg

hope all this helps you guys. some of you are probably saying screw it too much work. i like tinkering so i didn't mind.
 
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Bawn

Super Member
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Nov 18, 2011
968
388
boynton beach, FL
ok so teaking the head lead to leaking and gurgles and a no go. i did however get this thing to finally vape good. what i did was slot the metal top cap on a new head. so instead of the juice trying to flow through those two small little holes i slotted both sides much bigger so more juice hits that filler material. works a lot better. no gurgles if done right. you can slot it as if you were going to slot a carto. you can also use a carto punch to make it easier.

image.jpgimage.jpg
 
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Rickajho

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Apr 23, 2011
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Boston MA
Ehhh... when I got one of these my expectations for decent wicking were low. Your slotted head mod makes more sense than those two tiny holes they give you. I still haven't brought myself to even try it yet since I use 100 VG.

At least the Kanger stuff can be easily adjusted just by removing the top wicks - or even adding more - depending on individuals criteria. The is just too much work - having to modify the body of the head itself - for what is supposed to be a disposable item.
 

cloudcity

Senior Member
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Oct 6, 2013
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Boston MA
Honestly I just don't understand why after all this trouble you just don't buy an RBA?

I totally appreciate all the effort, it's an impressive amount of work that went into this ...

But it seems like you want a cheap, disposable, consumer-grade product to perform like an RBA. But at that point, why not spend $5 more and buy one?

There are many models these days you can buy for $15 or less.

If the small form factor is what you like, these are only 16mm and look great on an ego with a collar. These are only $11...

http://www.litecigusa.net/Genesis_V...le_Atomizer_p/genesis-v2-rebuild-atomizer.htm
 
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wesalexleft

Full Member
Jan 26, 2014
13
1
Memphis, tn
My ET-S leaks like crazy, but I just cant see doing all of this to fix it. I'll just let it sit in the box and use something else. Too bad, I had high hopes for this. Not work spending any more time or money on this one in my opinion... I may try to give it another air hole at the base one day, but I'm not working on individual heads to make this piece of crap perform.
 
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