Official ProVari 3 Thread - P3

[Lemwise76]

It'll be hard to hack the firmware without some sort of connection port to access the pre-installed firmware. That's not taking into account that you need to know and possess the same software that the firmware was written with.

Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk.

Hackers have always hacked what companies said was unhackable. If some crazy vaper out there really wants to do it, they'll find a way.

 

[Ozwald]

Yeah I figured. That was more of a side question. I do wonder about how the exact boost is implemented tho

I'm curious as well, but it sounds like that info won't be revealed until it's past the beta testing period.

 

[Robino1]

There are some tanks being made with the new P3 thread already and we have new tank makers contacting us to produce more options.

Those are all the details I have at the moment. As we get further along, we will keep you updated.

I do really, really hope it will be a genuine Kayfun.

We are still working out the details, so I don't have that info yet. It's still very early

Watching for any announcements.

 

[Riverboat]

Hi JohnD,

There are 4 limit checks that are done to protect the hardware and the users and provide safe operation. These are;


1) No power output over 20 watts
2) No voltage output over 6 volts
3) No resistance below .7 ohms
4) No current output over 5 amps.

So what if I used a 3.0 ohm HH357 atomizer set @ 20 watts? A 3.0 ohm atty would require 7.74 volts to achieve 20 watts, so does that mean the Provari P3 is incapable of this? Even using a 2.0 ohm atty set @ 20 watts requires 6.32 volts to achieve a full 20 watts...

 

[Relaxed5311]

Found this, it was interesting are Beta P3's out to the B&M?

http://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/2dltwl/i_played_with_a_provari_p3_beta_tonight/

 

[Riverboat]

Found this, it was interesting are Beta P3's out to the B&M?

http://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/2dltwl/i_played_with_a_provari_p3_beta_tonight/

The reviews, well are just like I figured they would be... Provape you better get P3's out fast before people lose interest and you get stuck with the lot.....

 

[Nodnerb]

Most complaints appear to be about the UI. I hated single button devices when I first tried them for a while.I hated the evic interface for a while. I hated the semovar interface for a while. All of them I got used to and it's just second nature now on all of them. I'm sure this will happen with the p3 as well. It's a new interface that no other device has so it'll be a learning curve for everyone.

 

[HBcorpse]

So what if I used a 3.0 ohm HH357 atomizer set @ 20 watts? A 3.0 ohm atty would require 7.74 volts to achieve 20 watts, so does that mean the Provari P3 is incapable of this? Even using a 2.0 ohm atty set @ 20 watts requires 6.32 volts to achieve a full 20 watts...

Sorry that you're my example, buuuuut...

People keep posting these kinds of scenarios, and it's totally POINTLESS!!!

Provape has laid down the law, as far as what the device will and won't do!

The chip's restrictions look like a check and balance system.
Break any of the four laws, and you won't be vaping.
It's that simple.

As many others have said, Provape set this thing up to be as safe as THEY want it to be.
We all know the legendary Provape testing methods are harsh and thorough. They use countless tests, and engineering hours, to determine what they feel is Provape safety and quality...

So why poke the bear?
Quit throwing out "law breaker" scenarios, and expecting Vape360 to come in and be like "Oh you proposed a situation which would clearly break one of the P3's laws...but because it's YOUR favorite atomizer, we'll just let it go ahead and be ok."

Again, I'm sorry Riverboat...I'm not picking on you directly, I'm picking on the group of people (including you) who keep ignoring what has been laid on the table.

If you're all so good at the math, then use it.
Provape has given you the parameters of the new device. If your build/setup/atomizer/battery doesn't make the math work, within those parameters, then DON'T BUY A PROVARI P3!!!

It's so simple!

 

[Riverboat]

We all know the legendary Provape testing methods are harsh and thorough. They use countless tests, and engineering hours, to determine what they feel is Provape safety and quality...
So why poke the bear?. If your build/setup/atomizer/battery doesn't make the math work, within those parameters, DON'T BUY A PROVARI P3!!!

I do have an idea how long and harsh the testing is... I bought a Provape1 the first month they were released.. When you held the fire button down it never stop firing until released.. When Provape decided to add the 16 second cut off it took months of testing before they sold it, and that was only one added feature...Now the P3 with its complex system well it has taken a year + to develop..
Why poke the bear ?... You know Riverboat likes to poke at him every now and then, just to keep him on his toes... He ignores me for the most part
Don't buy a Provari P3? Blasphemy... don't even go there, I am buying one come Hell or High water....

 

[Vape360]

Most complaints appear to be about the UI. I hated single button devices when I first tried them for a while.I hated the evic interface for a while. I hated the semovar interface for a while. All of them I got used to and it's just second nature now on all of them. I'm sure this will happen with the p3 as well. It's a new interface that no other device has so it'll be a learning curve for everyone.

Nicely said!

It's actually really easy to use! Sure, there is always going to be the learning curve and getting used to how something works. We have had a lot of people try the P3 from novice to experienced users and all were able to hop right in and change settings without looking at the manual. It's a pretty slick menu system. The guy who said it took him 8-10 minutes to change settings?....Hmm, I'll keep my comments to myself.

If you recall how many people were not happy about the single button ProVari when it came out, but after they actually tried it and got used to it, it was not a issue.

One thing us humans do best is adapt.

 

[ScandaLeX]

Keep 1, and sell the rest. Seems reasonable.

Keep 1 kid. Aww hell no. They all go together. Package deal.

Sent from a BIG phone.....Galaxy Note 3

 

[JohnD0406]

Don't but a Provari P3? Blasphemy... don't even go there, I am buying one come Hell or High water....

I'm on board (pun intended Riverboat). I'm an engineer, so naturally I wanted to know why the math didn't work out with the limitations stated. Vape360 answered the question - every one of the parameters is checked in all modes. Now it makes sense. No need for anyone to post any more scenarios - we have the answer. If your atomizer is too low of a resistance, the P3 will reach the current limit before the wattage limit; if your atomizer is too high of a resistance, it will reach the voltage limit before the wattage limit. So, yes, there's a sweet spot if you want to achieve the 20W wattage limit.

The ProVari 2.5 was my first mod after getting away from eGo's, so I can't bring myself to sell it. The P3 *is* a major upgrade, albeit a rather small one power-wise, so of course I'll have to get it. I do ride my Kayfuns on at the edge of what the 2.5 can do and occasionally get an error code and have to back off 0.1V, so the P3 will be perfect for Kayfuns. I also drip at 45-55W on average. If the P3 was a 30W device, I could have dripped on something like my Origen v2 and lived with 30W. I'm a bit disappointed that won't be a reality, but I still have my mechs (quite a few) and they'll still be used as well. When the P4 come out someday, and if it's 30W+, I'll upgrade and sell the P3 (still keeping the 2.5 forever), but if it's not 30W+, I'll stick with the P3 forever as *I* won't have a need. 20W+ is too much for a Kayfun, but not enough for gennies and drippers - that gap will likely always divide ProVari & mech.

 

[DPLongo22]

I'm on board (pun intended Riverboat). I'm an engineer, so naturally I wanted to know why the math didn't work out with the limitations stated. Vape360 answered the question - every one of the parameters is checked in all modes. Now it makes sense. No need for anyone to post any more scenarios - we have the answer. If your atomizer is too low of a resistance, the P3 will reach the current limit before the wattage limit; if your atomizer is too high of a resistance, it will reach the voltage limit before the wattage limit. So, yes, there's a sweet spot if you want to achieve the 20W wattage limit.

The ProVari 2.5 was my first mod after getting away from eGo's, so I can't bring myself to sell it. The P3 *is* a major upgrade, albeit a rather small one power-wise, so of course I'll have to get it. I do ride my Kayfuns on at the edge of what the 2.5 can do and occasionally get an error code and have to back off 0.1V, so the P3 will be perfect for Kayfuns. I also drip at 45-55W on average. If the P3 was a 30W device, I could have dripped on something like my Origen v2 and lived with 30W. I'm a bit disappointed that won't be a reality, but I still have my mechs (quite a few) and they'll still be used as well. When the P4 come out someday, and if it's 30W+, I'll upgrade and sell the P3 (still keeping the 2.5 forever), but if it's not 30W+, I'll stick with the P3 forever as *I* won't have a need. 20W+ is too much for a Kayfun, but not enough for gennies and drippers - that gap will likely always divide ProVari & mech.

Well stated, John.

 

[Riverboat]

The ProVari 2.5 was my first mod after getting away from eGo's, so I can't bring myself to sell it. .

I know the felling... I really don't use my Provari V2.5 and have said I was going to sell it... But I just cant seem to be able to list it in the classifieds yet.. Sellers remorse ?
I did receive a couple of PM's yesterday asking about the device, Here it is : Satin Silver V2.5 / Extension cap / Green LED.. Not a scratch.. 9.9/10

 

[Riverboat]

There are some tanks being made with the new P3 thread already and we have new tank makers contacting us to produce more options.

Those are all the details I have at the moment. As we get further along, we will keep you updated.

Can you do the old Riverboat a favor and consider building a P3 thread RDA also ? I am still a 100% direct dripper...No tanks for me

 

[chadsmo]

Dripping under 20 watts ??

 

[dhaiken]

Actually, the single button is one of the main things that kept me from buying a Provari sooner.

Now it's one of the main reasons I bought my 4th one yesterday.

Adapt or perish. You will be assimilated.

Nicely said!

It's actually really easy to use! Sure, there is always going to be the learning curve and getting used to how something works. We have had a lot of people try the P3 from novice to experienced users and all were able to hop right in and change settings without looking at the manual. It's a pretty slick menu system. The guy who said it took him 8-10 minutes to change settings?....Hmm, I'll keep my comments to myself.

If you recall how many people were not happy about the single button ProVari when it came out, but after they actually tried it and got used to it, it was not a issue.

One thing us humans do best is adapt.

 

[Fir3b1rd]

I'm on board (pun intended Riverboat). I'm an engineer, so naturally I wanted to know why the math didn't work out with the limitations stated. Vape360 answered the question - every one of the parameters is checked in all modes. Now it makes sense. No need for anyone to post any more scenarios - we have the answer. If your atomizer is too low of a resistance, the P3 will reach the current limit before the wattage limit; if your atomizer is too high of a resistance, it will reach the voltage limit before the wattage limit. So, yes, there's a sweet spot if you want to achieve the 20W wattage limit.

The ProVari 2.5 was my first mod after getting away from eGo's, so I can't bring myself to sell it. The P3 *is* a major upgrade, albeit a rather small one power-wise, so of course I'll have to get it. I do ride my Kayfuns on at the edge of what the 2.5 can do and occasionally get an error code and have to back off 0.1V, so the P3 will be perfect for Kayfuns. I also drip at 45-55W on average. If the P3 was a 30W device, I could have dripped on something like my Origen v2 and lived with 30W. I'm a bit disappointed that won't be a reality, but I still have my mechs (quite a few) and they'll still be used as well. When the P4 come out someday, and if it's 30W+, I'll upgrade and sell the P3 (still keeping the 2.5 forever), but if it's not 30W+, I'll stick with the P3 forever as *I* won't have a need. 20W+ is too much for a Kayfun, but not enough for gennies and drippers - that gap will likely always divide ProVari & mech.

Im in a similar boat as you, only im finding the 2.5 perfect for kayfuns and taifuns with 1.4ohm coil. Ive found a dna30 to fill the gap between mech and provari rather nicely, so personally im on the fence with it. Luckily i have an authorized dealer 5 minutes away, so hopefully ill be able to go check it out and go from there. Hoping maybe the increase in amperage makes the difference. I know its still only 5 amps but coming from the current limit that's a fairly decent upgrade.
On paper though, the ability to use flat tops is probably my favorite change. I would have an easier time finding the lochness monster than a button top battery in my town.

 

[JohnD0406]

Can you do the old Riverboat a favor and consider building a P3 thread RDA also ? I am still a 100% direct dripper...No tanks for me

Get a small dripper like the Atomixani Anima - I have one, on a Nemi, with a 14650, built at 0.88 ohms, so on a full charge of 4.2V, that's 20W @ 4.78A - that would fire perfectly on the P3 (every time )

 

[ENAUD]

I sent my V1 ProVari off to see the Doc today, I decided to get the upgrade done to it.