Official ProVari 3 Thread - P3

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jimho

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Not sure MTF. Still trying to figure it out myself. I just got the thing. It doesn't say the type of error that I can tell. Just flashes an alert. I'm finding it hard to believe it would be high wattage. I set mine at 8.5 watts with 2.3 ohms and it wont boost. Actually, I'm kind of disappointed about that.

Just checked same thing with 3Ohms at 8.5W ... same result on v3.5.
Doesn't bother me though... with a 3 ohm standard (HV) atty, I don't need boost. In fact it probably would stress the atty a bit more than I'd like.

Try that 26 ga at 1.1 ohms
 

Bronze

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Just checked same thing with 3Ohms at 8.5W ... same result on v3.5.
Doesn't bother me though... with a 3 ohm standard (HV) atty, I don't need boost. In fact it probably would stress the atty a bit more than I'd like.

Try that 26 ga at 1.1 ohms

I did 26 gauge at 1.2 ohms and it boosted fine.
 

Peter_C

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@Zombo - Some people stress over the charge of their batteries, and some do not. I use red AWs from RTD (known to be the real thing) - I do nothing special other than have a *good* charger.

I either use a battery til dead (ProVari starts blinking-dead), or until I go to bed, whichever comes first - then the battery goes on the charger and stays *in* the charger until I want to put it in my mod - which means overnight, or if I am gone, etc - other folks worry about fires, etc - so they only charge when they are in the room to watch, and then remove as soon as they are done - /shrug...

My point is; I bought my P2.5 DEC 2112 and ONE 18490 and ONE 18650. 490 gets used every single day, and the 650 is put in on any day I am gonna leave the house with the mod (when I get home, switch back to the 490 and my Tatro base) - am still on those first two batteries, which is 400+ charges on the 490 for sure.

So, if they both died tomorrow, I would be pleased with the life I got out of them. Now, since my new P3 is due soon, I did order 3 18350s, and 2 18490s, and 1 18650 (new model, red AWs) from RTD and they have already arrived and all went on the charger for least 12hrs.

That's my story and my plan. May or may not be the best way to handle them, but it works (so far) for me.

I have two of the two-bay cheap chargers from ProVape - and actual reviews say they are good chargers - FYI "Tenergy" TN270

Adding to this;
Got my P3 today (love it of course) - point is, I put one of the new 18350 batteries in with the stock base (no cleaning or anything) and got an 'IQ' of 99. Switched to my (cleaned) Tatro base (still in 18350 mode) and the 'IQ' dropped to 86. I wonder if they will come out with either a new Tatro base, or, a new spring to put into my existing Tatro base?
 

NicoHolic

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Adding to this;
Got my P3 today (love it of course) - point is, I put one of the new 18350 batteries in with the stock base (no cleaning or anything) and got an 'IQ' of 99. Switched to my (cleaned) Tatro base (still in 18350 mode) and the 'IQ' dropped to 86. I wonder if they will come out with either a new Tatro base, or, a new spring to put into my existing Tatro base?

First…. Congratulations on your new P3, Peter. :)

Have you tried screwing/winding/rotating the Tatro spring in the base to improve spring/base contact?

Am running boost '1', on my Silo with a BVC 2.1 coil that reads out as 2.04ohms - no errors

Thanks for that data point!
 

irwink

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The P3 so far appears to be everything I vehemently criticized the 2 and 2.5 for not being.

My 2 Semovars deliver just as smooth a vape but the form factor and battery life especially are inferior, not to mention the long track record of reliability and support.

I am not interested in unregulated mods and such my eVic S was the only device I own that would push my KFL+ past 15 watts. And while I've always had good service from Joye devices the form factor of the eVic S truly sucks imo.

I find the P3 menu system easy once learned. I like being able to reconfigure for different batteries. I like that I can now use flat top batteries. I prefer VW capability and now I have it with many more bells and whistles. For me the P3 is a winner.
 

Katdarling

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HUGE congratulations to all the new P3 owners, but in particular......

Mine arrived. Finally found the watts. Still can't find IQ. Where is it?

This is the best I can do right now. You sure will know it's mine.

[URL=http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/speedracer12_2010/media/20141115_155215.jpg.html][/URL]

YAY, Pingy!!!!!


got it!!!!!

And we HAVE Contact! :banana: :banana: :banana:

Unboxing now in progress


Very happy for both of YOU, too!


Got mine, well my lovely wife did and texted me, forgot - had PT today, arrived about 1:30PM

Saving the most special congrats for you, Peter underscore!

And now I do believe it may be time for me to depart this thread, only because I am not in the club (yet). It's been completely enjoyable and truly some funny and fun moments here! Enjoy yer P3s, kiddies!!! :D
 

matcas

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After few hours of vaping. I lov p3! I have set the same setting as my 2.5.. It seems I get more cloud on p3.

Kraken.. Single coil @ 1.9 ohms.. 3.8 volts. Boost set to 1. Wowza.. Had the bedroom in cloud after few mins.. Lol

I agree it seems even more consistent then the old version the boost helps with that. I believe it is the best mod I have ever used I got the polished one it looks great I'm very happy with it. The menu is a little tricky at first but it is worth it for all the extra options.
 

mrkaos

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People wanted to know my progress. From yeterday to today. IQ has decreased to low 50s with whatever battery i put in it but no battery empty. Not sure i can get the threads dirty in 24 hours. I just got some no ox in and put it on the threads. Back up to 76. Provape already sent me an rma email but ill give it another day before deciding.
 

Bronze

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People wanted to know my progress. From yeterday to today. IQ has decreased to low 50s with whatever battery i put in it but no battery empty. Not sure i can get the threads dirty in 24 hours. I just got some no ox in and put it on the threads. Back up to 76. Provape already sent me an rma email but ill give it another day before deciding.

I wouldn't think twice about using the rma. $250? Lots of loot. I don't care how good Six Sigma practices are, there will still be some strays that don't cut the mustard.
 

mrkaos

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I wouldn't think twice about using the rma. $250? Lots of loot. I don't care how good Six Sigma practices are, there will still be some strays that don't cut the mustard.
As long as i dont have the battery issue saying empty...i dont particularly care what the iq is. I suppose if i ever go above 15 watts but lets face it...they will come out with a dragon or something and i will buy another! I do kfl+ 1.2 ohm at 9 watts but i will sleep on it to decide.
 

Peter_C

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First…. Congratulations on your new P3, Peter. :)

Have you tried screwing/winding/rotating the Tatro spring in the base to improve spring/base contact?



Thanks for that data point!

I washed the spring, tried to stretch it (no luck) and screwed it back into the base. As I am a klutz - I need/want the wider base so I don't knock it over as often.

Oh, and that data point is at 11.0 watts, ver. 36
 

NicoHolic

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Nic, are you tabulating our experiences to establish a pattern?

I've definitely been keeping track of the BoosT error, particularly those reporting 2.0 and 2.1… and it looks like 2.0 is the high limit, at least so far.

I've also been following the IQ posts as best I can. From them, 96 seems a reasonable goal with a healthy battery. I did not get that until I cranked my spring around several degrees in the end cap. I've not cleaned anything or applied any grease.

I took three 18650s down to 50% this weekend and one down to 33% so far today. State of charge seems to have no effect on IQ. In every case, after a battery swap, my IQ has been down, once significantly. Unscrewing and retightening the cap brings it back to 96. Conclusion: Pilot error--failing to get the cap tight after a swap, and possibly loosening one of the extensions when unscrewing it

I don't know what to say to those getting low IQ readings, except for battery condition or possibly a cold solder joint.
 
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