Official ProVari 3 Thread - P3

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AstroTurf

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Gaaahhhh!!! I can't take it any more......

Cartomizer = CARTO, Not Cardo.

Stop calling it a Cardo, PLEEEEEAAAASE!!!!! :laugh:

Whaaa???

You see thats what happens when you listen to some Damn Yankee enunciations... On Youtube.

Curse you Busardo!

Thanks for the Lernin!
 

AstroTurf

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Variable wattage is also the most important to me. My attys drop in resistance as they crud up. I clean them with Everclear, but that only postpones it. The VW lowers the voltage as the resistance drops to keep the power from increasing and popping the coil.

...



I was dripping some samples at a local B&M earlier this week. When I told these young folks it was "only" 20 watts and couldn't support a new 0.5Ω Aspire Atlantis or upcoming Kanger SubTank, they almost called it a senior's mod ("old school"). When I ask one of the non-cloud blowers what his DNA40 was set on, he blushed a little and said, "Ten watts." I replied, "Me too… good flavor, eh?" Nevertheless, the ProVari image now seems that of a Buick in a world of 600 HP pony cars.

But put yourself in ProVape's shoes. Besides Snap-On tool ruggedness, safety is their marque. They can't afford a single ProVari thermal event in the news. They've made the decision to support 18350 batteries, but know there are some from eBay and Amazon that are risky at half their C rating when new. They'd have to support those 0.5Ω clearomizers with 7.75 amps (at 3.9V) to even get just 30 watts. Will they do that? I could be wrong, but I don't think so.

Twenty watts is exactly the maximum power I vape today, with most of it around ten watts. 0.8Ω is now the lowest I build and they've given me a 0.1Ω cushion to their low limit. I appreciate them raising the current limit to 5.5A because I'm right at 5.0 with 10.0W/4.0V into 0.8Ω. One notch up and I'd be over. So for me, the power of the Provari 3 is everything I need.

Very Well Said!!!
 

rbrylawski

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And don't forget to add some time-lapse photos to the mix...

LOLz, Jim

But make sure that once you've sealed it with the more complicated "iron seal" method, it still needs to be put in a pill bottle, labeled, dated and then placed in a ziplock bag. Putting it in a hermetically sealed, temperature, humidity and light controlled room is completely up to the individual user. But the pill bottle/ziplock baggy is a must!
 

Nodnerb

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Whaaa???

You see thats what happens when you listen to some Damn Yankee enunciations... On Youtube.

Curse you Busardo!

Thanks for the Lernin!

S'aright. I thought you must be doing some social experiment or something to see when someone would crack. I had to say something cause it drove me nuts every time I saw it. Lol. I guess I cracked.
 

AstroTurf

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S'aright. I thought you must be doing some social experiment or something to see when someone would crack. I had to say something cause it drove me nuts every time I saw it. Lol. I guess I cracked.

Hey No Problem...

Words have meanings.

Thank You
 

Pinggolfer

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S'aright. I thought you must be doing some social experiment or something to see when someone would crack. I had to say something cause it drove me nuts every time I saw it. Lol. I guess I cracked.

How about as one of friends calls them Karto's? Will that drive you nuts too?
 

Robino1

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Isn't a tank actually
drive-tank-001.jpg
 

Bronze

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Variable wattage is also the most important to me. My attys drop in resistance as they crud up. I clean them with Everclear, but that only postpones it. The VW lowers the voltage as the resistance drops to keep the power from increasing and popping the coil.

...



I was dripping some samples at a local B&M earlier this week. When I told these young folks it was "only" 20 watts and couldn't support a new 0.5Ω Aspire Atlantis or upcoming Kanger SubTank, they almost called it a senior's mod ("old school"). When I ask one of the non-cloud blowers what his DNA40 was set on, he blushed a little and said, "Ten watts." I replied, "Me too… good flavor, eh?" Nevertheless, the ProVari image now seems that of a Buick in a world of 600 HP pony cars.

But put yourself in ProVape's shoes. Besides Snap-On tool ruggedness, safety is their marque. They can't afford a single ProVari thermal event in the news. They've made the decision to support 18350 batteries, but know there are some from eBay and Amazon that are risky at half their C rating when new. They'd have to support those 0.5Ω clearomizers with 7.75 amps (at 3.9V) to even get just 30 watts. Will they do that? I could be wrong, but I don't think so.

Twenty watts is exactly the maximum power I vape today, with most of it around ten watts. 0.8Ω is now the lowest I build and they've given me a 0.1Ω cushion to their low limit. I appreciate them raising the current limit to 5.5A because I'm right at 5.0 with 20.0W/4.0V into 0.8Ω. One notch up and I'd be over. So for me, the power of the Provari 3 is everything I need.

Safety is exactly the reason I was thinking as to the 20 watt limit. They're not so worried about most of us screwing up, but rather the dude that has no clue what he is doing.
 

NicoHolic

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v4/P3

Will it be 22.7mm vs 22mm to be hybrid look?

Will it be available with the same satin silver finish as the P3? To look hybrid?

Will it be sold exclusively by ProVape?

If the answer to all these questions is, "yes" (and there's a polished version), that would be a major win for ProVape!
 
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Ca Ike

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I got my P3 yesterday and have been playing with it a bit and so far it is the smoothest vape I've had yet. I have to rebuild all my kayfuns to really play with it but I Have already noticed that even without boost I run less power than I did on my e-mech. Its been a great improvement so far and the polished finish is just purdy :)

A couple things I noticed right out of the box though. All the threads had some kind of residue on them and needed to be cleaned. I don't know if it was machining oil or if provape lubes them with no-ox during assembly but I didn't test it, just cleaned it right away. Now having read all this about batts and IQ i did compare the IQ with my vtc4's and the new AW'S I got with the P3. With both VTC's about half charged IQ read 98-99. With a brand new AW I got 84 IQ and now its down to 73 IQ @ 77% batt cap. There is definitely something with the AW's that gives them a lower IQ and all I can come up with is the fact that it is a button top and that bit of extra metal gives AW's a slightly higher internal resistance, or the amp and capacity rating itself makes a big difference. I didn't check to see if the batts had any residue on the contacts though.

I also wanted to see if 360 or anyone else has used/tested CRC 2-26 precision electrical lube. I have a couple cans of it and use it on all my RC connectors to keep them from gunking up and seizing. I was thinking of using it on my extension tube threads.
 
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