Official ProVari 3 Thread - P3

[SeniorBoy]

Anyone notice that as the battery drains the IQ goes up?

Not mine. I run between 94 and 98. I've seen 97 when I'm at 50% and 95 when I'm at 95%. No correlation.

To do this you need a very very very special bat! /Just joking a bit so no flames please but the answer is still not.

Actually a fresh 18650 IMR will read around 85 for an IQ

A fresh "mans man" vct5 18650 will read around 96

Either reading is fine! Seasons best wishes to you

 

[Pinggolfer]

Ok I have a issue. Lately I've been using blue for my led, however every time I change the battery the led is green. In fact any color I pick will revert back to green when the battery is changed. Anyone else have this happen.

 

[DEAc23]

I just checked the tracking info on my P3, and it has officially been picked up by USPS

The expected delivery date says Monday the 8th, although I doubt it will take that long. I'm guessing it will be here Saturday, and that's assuming it doesn't arrive tomorrow, considering I am only 4-5 hours away

Of course my KFL+ is supposed to arrive Saturday, so if the P3 doesn't come until Monday maybe I will be able to figure out how to build the kayfun correctly before it arrives

 

[WillyZee]

my P3 and Ti arrived to my Mom's in Florida today ... she would be a little surprised that she just signed for a couple vapes that are worth $500

 

[The Ocelot]

This is the 116th post in this thread with No-Ox in it.

edit: Sure killed all the discussion about IQ.

You counted all the posts? It warms my heart to know you have accomplished something meaningful in your life.

 

[The Ocelot]

I've been waiting and waiting and waiting, and MAY have missed someone else saying this, but I'm going to anyway.

I've been using Noalox for three years now, on a total of five different Provi's. I've had a total of, let me think, ZERO issues with it, and my threads all operate much better with it, than right after I clean them down (aka "without it").

I clean them off completely maybe once every 9-12 months, when it looks like it MIGHT be beginning to cake up. VERY easy to remove down to nothing, and then I start again.

I, for one, plan on continuing this practice. Once I get through my current bottle, which should be in about 20 years, I'll decide if I want to switch to Da New Grease (or WHATEVER is being recommended when THAT day comes).

But for now, just TRY taking my Noalox from me. I might be in CT, but I assure you that the Noalox might not be the only thing you'll have to pry from my cold, dead fingers. And yes, EVERYTHING is "registered".

Carry on.

I haven't read the next posts, so this may have been covered. I too was using Noalox, until I was advised that it is designed to work on aluminum, not ss. I now only use it on Reos.

 

[The Ocelot]

From the manual - "If you use the device under 15 watts you do not need to be concerned with the IQ value."

I got my P3 today and so far I think it's worth the higher cost

Should one not feel like plugging in The Holy Key, I found The Sacred Text of Manual (King David Version) in PDF.

The Gospel of P-eth Thrice

 

[The Ocelot]

ok, old man needs help here, grandkids are not available at this time....

So I got my P3 (hopefully I'll have a Kayfun by Saturday) and I stuck something that looks like a key into the side of my laptop.
Now I have a small window listing several options. I prefer reading instructions over zen-cosmos whatever, so which options do I choose to store this information? And please try to make it so an Old Trucker can at least try to understand....
Any Assistance would be Appreciated, Thanks.

See my prior post. ↑↑↑↑↑↑↑↑↑↑↑↑↑↑↑↑↑↑

 

[Regzzz]

Ok I have a issue. Lately I've been using blue for my led, however every time I change the battery the led is green. In fact any color I pick will revert back to green when the battery is changed. Anyone else have this happen.

I have noticed same, but have you waited about 2-3 mins, then it changes back to the color for that saved setting?

 

[Bronze]

Ok I have a issue. Lately I've been using blue for my led, however every time I change the battery the led is green. In fact any color I pick will revert back to green when the battery is changed. Anyone else have this happen.

Are you a Leprechaun by chance? O'Pinggolfer.

 

[Bronze]

I just checked the tracking info on my P3, and it has officially been picked up by USPS

The expected delivery date says Monday the 8th, although I doubt it will take that long. I'm guessing it will be here Saturday, and that's assuming it doesn't arrive tomorrow, considering I am only 4-5 hours away

Of course my KFL+ is supposed to arrive Saturday, so if the P3 doesn't come until Monday maybe I will be able to figure out how to build the Kayfun correctly before it arrives

PM me if you need help with your KFL build. I have a pictorial I can link you to. Also I'm sure you've seen some vids as well.

 

[rbrylawski]

Ok I have a issue. Lately I've been using blue for my led, however every time I change the battery the led is green. In fact any color I pick will revert back to green when the battery is changed. Anyone else have this happen.

No, my led stays the same blue color I set it to from day one, even when I change the battery. Maybe try a different color for a while, then set it back and see what happens.

 

[HBcorpse]

Ok I have a issue. Lately I've been using blue for my led, however every time I change the battery the led is green. In fact any color I pick will revert back to green when the battery is changed. Anyone else have this happen.

Make sure to save the setting once you've changed the color...otherwise it goes back to the color you were on before...

Even if your watts/volts/boost setting stay the same between different toppers, but you like having a different color LED with each one (like myself), you have to save the profile...

I was messing with my Nautilus...I don't know why...and I ramped it up from 10 watts to 12 watts, (ooooh big change)...however, I liked it...but I forgot to save it on the P5 where my Nautilus profile is parked. Changed battery, and WOMP...it was back at the original saved info for that profile slot.

 

[brickfollett]

I find that as my battery dies, my IQ drops. Usually what I do is unscrew the tubes a bit, then screw them back in, and IQ jumps back up to 93 or so. Once it jumps up to 93, the battery % usually jumps by 10 or so

 

[The Ocelot]

I find that as my battery dies, my IQ drops. Usually what I do is unscrew the tubes a bit, then screw them back in, and IQ jumps back up to 93 or so. Once it jumps up to 93, the battery % usually jumps by 10 or so

My battery was red dead the other night. 0%/empty, but my IQ was still over 90. I'm not sure of the exact number (it's posted in this thread somewhere), but I know it was over 80.

 

[brickfollett]

Yeah I don't do it when the battery is dead, but when I'm at like 5% and I'm getting a low iq, I'll do that and it'll jump back to like 17%

 

[HBcorpse]

I find that as my battery dies, my IQ drops. Usually what I do is unscrew the tubes a bit, then screw them back in, and IQ jumps back up to 93 or so. Once it jumps up to 93, the battery % usually jumps by 10 or so

Yeah but dude...the point is the IQ won't affect your vape until it's hanging out around 50...and even then, it's not the IQ that is affecting the vape...it's just a report on the battery quality, which is what's affecting the performance...
So why bother doing that?
I've said it before, and I'll say it again...you people are going to obsess over the IQ until it kills you.

 

[brickfollett]

Yeah but dude...the point is the IQ won't affect your vape until it's hanging out around 50...and even then, it's not the IQ that is affecting the vape...it's just a report on the battery quality, which is what's affecting the performance...
So why bother doing that?
I've said it before, and I'll say it again...you people are going to obsess over the IQ until it kills you.

I don't obsess over it, I just do it maybe twice a day. If I feel like messing with it too get my battery % up, I'll go ahead and do so because it's what I want to do. I don't need people telling me how to use my device and what to pay attention to or ignore. I don't check it 50 times a day because I honestly don't care. But if I'm in 18350 mode and my battery is getting low, I prefer to see it reading an accurate percentage so I have a better idea of how much time I have left
Thanks

 

[The Ocelot]

I learned something new about the P3 today that has nothing to do with IQ or No Ox.

I hadn't looked closely at the top cap(s), but being an experienced vaper I don't screw anything down tightly, so have never had any issues. I went over to a friend's house who said she was having problems with her tank leaking. It was a Nautilus. She didn't know that. [Clue] It was on her Spinner-esque/whatever battery and the thing was screwed on so tightly I struggled to get it off. She was in the kitchen getting wine and as she came back in I commanded, "Do not ever screw your tank down so tightly!"

She said the guy at the vape store told her it should be tight, but then admitted she had tightened it further because it was leaking. [The Ocelot's eyes narrowed.] We have been friends for going on 20 years, so I carefully measured my words. "See how the pin at the bottom is flat? It won't leak from there. It will leak from the airflow control holes or where the glass meets the metal, although that's uncommon. Tightening it down won't help."

She really likes my juice, so I took the Nautilus apart, rinsed it out and filled it up with my flavor. Then I explained to her how to keep it from leaking and showed her what to do if it did. I put it on a Vamo and got a ridiculous ohms reading. I messed around with it a bit, then got a 99 code (the Vamo error code). Back when I was rinsing it out, I thought the threads felt a little weird, so now I wondered if all the over tightening had done some damage to them. Vamos are notorious for having easily stripped 510 connections, so I put it on the P3 to see if I could find the fault.

The P3...the P3. I was thinking it was like my 2.5s, tough, solid, no moving parts and it would be fine. I put it on, messed around some more and finally got a realistic ohms reading; however, when I unscrewed it, it took the top of the P3 cap with it. Annie and I are both strong, but we couldn't t get them apart, so I took it home.

I went at this conundrum with needle-nosed pliers (not touching the P3 part, of course), but to no avail. I put it in the freezer, which didn't work either. I then put it back in the freezer for about 2 hours. As I took it out, I said to the little monster, "If you don't let go of my P3 cap right now, tomorrow we are playing 'vise and bolt-cutter.' I don't give a flying fruit bat about a Nautilus, so I suggest you think it over."

More needle-nosed plier action and I finally got it free. The continued turning of the airflow controller on the Nautilus had been a big part of the problem, but so was how the parts of the P3 top cap are screwed together. So heads up! In a situation like this, the P3 is not as good of a problem solver as the 2.5.

 

[serenity21899]

I learned something new about the P3 today that has nothing to do with IQ or No Ox.

I hadn't looked closely at the top cap(s), but being an experienced vaper I don't screw anything down tightly, so have never had any issues. I went over to a friend's house who said she was having problems with her tank leaking. It was a Nautilus. She didn't know that. [Clue] It was on her Spinner-esque/whatever battery and the thing was screwed on so tightly I struggled to get it off. She was in the kitchen getting wine and as she came back in I commanded, "Do not ever screw your tank down so tightly!"

She said the guy at the vape store told her it should be tight, but then admitted she had tightened it further because it was leaking. [The Ocelot's eyes narrowed.] We have been friends for going on 20 years, so I carefully measured my words. "See how the pin at the bottom is flat? It won't leak from there. It will leak from the airflow control holes or where the glass meets the metal, although that's uncommon. Tightening it down won't help."

She really likes my juice, so I took the Nautilus apart, rinsed it out and filled it up with my flavor. Then I explained to her how to keep it from leaking and showed her what to do if it did. I put it on a Vamo and got a ridiculous ohms reading. I messed around with it a bit, then got a 99 code (the Vamo error code). Back when I was rinsing it out, I thought the threads felt a little weird, so now I wondered if all the over tightening had done some damage to them. Vamos are notorious for having easily stripped 510 connections, so I put it on the P3 to see if I could find the fault.

The P3...the P3. I was thinking it was like my 2.5s, tough, solid, no moving parts and it would be fine. I put it on, messed around some more and finally got a realistic ohms reading; however, when I unscrewed it, it took the top of the P3 cap with it. Annie and I are both strong, but we couldn't t get them apart, so I took it home.

I went at this conundrum with needle-nosed pliers (not touching the P3 part, of course), but to no avail. I put it in the freezer, which didn't work either. I then put it back in the freezer for about 2 hours. As I took it out, I said to the little monster, "If you don't let go of my P3 cap right now, tomorrow we are playing 'vise and bolt-cutter.' I don't give a flying fruit bat about a Nautilus, so I suggest you think it over."

More needle-nosed plier action and I finally got it free. The continued turning of the airflow controller on the Nautilus had been a big part of the problem, but so was how the parts of the P3 top cap are screwed together. So heads up! In a situation like this, the P3 is not as good of a problem solver as the 2.5.

Some kayfun's do the same thing to the topcap. The fix is to tighten it down before using it.