I didn't think so but wanted to make sure before I tried it out and damaged something.
Official ProVari 3 Thread - P3
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I didn't think so but wanted to make sure before I tried it out and damaged something.
No worries there. You can't damage the Provari that way. It just won't connect.
Thats right, the positive connection is recessed. For a button top battery only.
Anyone experience the P3 reset itself? I experience it twice. I was vaping and all a sudden the OLED become blank. Press the fire button it still fire for few sec then no respond at all. What I did is took off the bottom cap and put it back then I see the ProVape word on the OLED. I was vaping at 10w before it reset. When press the fire button, the OLED show 3v.
Another thing to confirm the P3 reset is go into the menu-recall-info then check the ERROR1-5. all error are 0.
Anyone have any idea what happen?
FYI here are my setup:
kayfun Lite Plus v2
28g @ 1.5ohm
AW IMR 18490 1100mah
85 -95 IQ
Another thing to confirm the P3 reset is go into the menu-recall-info then check the ERROR1-5. all error are 0.
Anyone have any idea what happen?
FYI here are my setup:
kayfun Lite Plus v2
28g @ 1.5ohm
AW IMR 18490 1100mah
85 -95 IQ
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New P3 or a demo? Wasn't there something about the spring needs to be stretched a bit or replaced with the new spring?
Those are the record of previous error code. I guess you already fix it. Refer to the Owner's Manual page 28.
Same here- nothing scientific, but I'm getting in the neighborhood of 30-50% more time on my VTC4's as I do on the AW's- part of it I'm attributing to much higher IQ score on the VTC4 (High 80's to low 90's) vs the AW's (in the 70's). Of course, it's more pronounced as you get closer to 20W. -
I've also found that I can stretch the Panasonics a bit further than the AW's at the end of the cycle by removing and reinserting them... again may be related to the age and lower IQ score of my AW's. It would be helpful to understand how the P3 determines the remaining charge but I suppose it's part of the secret sauce..... there are times that I do miss seeing the loaded voltage level of the battery.
FWIW, at one point I suspected something not right with the P3, so I checked 18490 performance against another device, which has an 1100mA LiPO- running the same builds on both and I had comparable performance in terms of battery life... note: I've never really been comfortable with that other unit, simply because I don't want a LiPO next to my face but that's another discussion...
I also am getting better results using VTC 4s vs AWs in my P3. They are 2100mah rather than 2000mah (unless you have the new AWs). And part of it is because the VTCs are newer than any of my AWs. I will be getting some of the new AWs and see how those work out in the P3.
I had to label my AW batteries, as two of them were brand spankin' new (bought them especially for my P3). The other few AW's are definitely older, and have been living full cycles in my v2.5's...so regardless of their age, they've lived a healthy lifestyle.
Anyway...the new batteries get far more life and a higher IQ. I wasn't surprised by this at all. I was, however, surprised by how many people are reporting that they feel like they're getting less life per charge with their P3...
Before my P3, I was using my v2.5 Minis (the only other Provaris I have) in 18490 mode with the extended cap. That would grant me about 1.5 days of regular usage. When I got my P3, of course I slapped in a new 18490, and went to town...much to my amazement, I pulled a 2 day charge out of the new battery. When this happened again, with the other new battery, I decided to buy two new 18350 AW's...and I've been pulling 1.5 day cycles off of them ever since (I've got an early release Beta, so I've got a couple weeks on most of you)...
Bottom line is, I'm finally able to run a device in 18350 mode for a satisfying amount of time. I don't know why other people are reporting shorter usage cycles than they had with their v2.5's....
Ya know, it could be (just my theory) that you're getting a shorter charge life out of your P3, because you're using it more...I mean...it's the NEW NEW, and I'll admit, I puff away on my P3 more times during the day than I was on my v2.5's, just before my P3 got to me. So it may not be the battery's fault, but the user! You're just burning them up more quickly, cuz you can't keep your hands off the P3!
Just my story, and my theory.
Edit: I am more than sure I am not using the "new generation" of AW's. The new ones I bought are the same as the ones I'd been using...just fresh out of the package.
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And like you I'm getting terrific life with AW 18490 batteries in my P3. They easily last all day, which for me is 7:00 AM to 11:30 PM. They could go longer, but I put the days battery in my charger when I sleep and swap in a fully charged battery from a rotation of 4 AW's.
I'm also not using the newer generation AW batteries.
To make it fair though, watts and ohms and boost will change the user experience. I use 1.8 ohm BVC AT 9.8 watts with boost level 2.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm also not using the newer generation AW batteries.
To make it fair though, watts and ohms and boost will change the user experience. I use 1.8 ohm BVC AT 9.8 watts with boost level 2.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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As for battery testing, the Efest Purple cells look really good to us as a alternate option. You can certainly use what you want with the usual warnings, Use IMR cells and stick with a well known brand and authentic cells as others here have mentioned.
I should warn you about the Efest purple cells. Several people have tested them and like most OEM's, they cycle through different stock from different manufacturers, and not all is well in this case. I'll try to find one of the reports, but they found a supposed 35A 18650 cell to be no better than 4A - highly dangerous in a mechanical, and with a 5.5A limit in the P3, not a good idea. I think you guys should revisit your research on Efest purples. I've read enough to never buy another one.
PS - I would advise that you advise the public to stay away from re-wraps in general, for the reason stated above. AW being the trusted exception. Since most cells are re-wraps, and quality control varies greatly, the only safe alternatives are the name brands themselves (and even some of those are re-wraps, but they do their due diligence). Shame Sony's not making cells anymore - they truly were the best - and MNKE hasn't been making cells in a long time, so they're all NOS.
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Thanks! - assuming you mean the 2500's - any difference between the button tops and the flat tops?
The ones tested were button top (3100mah 18650, 700mah 18350 and 1000mah 18500). It's always possible like mentioned manufacturers can have lots of variation. It's one reason why AW has been a good cell for us over the years for being consistent.
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I just use 18350 mode with AW batteries. I have a tough time running it in 18650 mode because its huge! I use VTC5's when I'm in 18650 mode though.
BTW, I believe this is my 1000th post on the forum! Had to be in the P3 thread =]
BTW, I believe this is my 1000th post on the forum! Had to be in the P3 thread =]
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