Official ProVari 3 Thread - P3

[The Ocelot]

You are correct!
The 510 is a physically weaker connection, but it also has to do with connectivity issues too.
There are plenty of other devices and atomizers that have proven to work better...
Plus, at least to my mind, the 510 connection is simply too small for devices bigger than eGo size...

I have had a few snap when I've dropped my gear.

 

[HBcorpse]

But that's rate of usage, not the actual amount of gas in the tank as measured. A seperate range guage tells me in appropriate units how far I can go based on my speed and the amount of gas available.

But quite honestly, the amount of gas in the tank doesn't matter, if you are being shown how far you can go based on speed...
If it says you have 200 miles left, at 65mph, then you can determine that you should stop for gas before you've gone 200 miles...

All that being said, I understand what you're saying.

 

[HBcorpse]

Thank you for posting that. I have wonder about hybrids, but couldn't figure it out.

:wink: :wink:

 

[The Ocelot]

Many here may not even know the 510 connector came from cigalikes. And long ago (in vape time), there was a more robust connector adopted to provide stronger than cigalike strength for larger 14mm devices--it was the eGo connector. Despite even 22mm PVs supplying it, the eGo never caught on except on 14mm size toppers.

It was the Joyetech 510 kit that started it. "510" refers to the kit, not a known thread size. There were other attys people thought were better, but the 510 took over the market - much like VHS crowding out Beta. Back in the archives there are lots of threads full of 510 Hate.

Switching over to the P3 would mean buying and installing a P3->510 adapter on each Sophia and other attys that still use the 510. Granted, at $7.95, they aren't that expensive, but I'm not ready to go there yet. Perhaps you are. YMMV

Do you mean if they changed the P3 connection? I've used my Diver V2 on the P3 already (I need to put my Sophia in a different tank).

 

[The Ocelot]

View attachment 392751
:wink: :wink:

No sarcasm intended. I really did wonder about it, but I never remembered to ask anyone.

 

[rondasherrill]

But quite honestly, the amount of gas in the tank doesn't matter, if you are being shown how far you can go based on speed...
If it says you have 200 miles left, at 65mph, then you can determine that you should stop for gas before you've gone 200 miles...

All that being said, I understand what you're saying.

I think the biggest point of confusion is actually the units of measurement. Using my previous example... If there were like a small battery symbol with the number 700, to mean, 700 minutes remaining... and then that number shifted according to use, it would be a million times more usable than using the standard percentage that is interpreted as similar to the battery percentage reading on every other electronic device people interact with.

 

[The Ocelot]

No, The Ti battery caps are made of Ti.

Sorry, I guess I'm confused. I thought DP meant a weight difference between the ProVarinati 2.5 and P3 end caps.

 

[AstroTurf]

Sorry, I guess I'm confused. I thought DP meant a weight difference between the ProVarinati 2.5 and P3 end caps.

That would mean that my answer is out of line.

I apologize.

Jim

 

[AstroTurf]

Thanks to both of you!

I'll likely send it in for an update at some point, but for now, I am going to continue what I've dubbed "A long term field test of v31"...hahaha

Have you been told about the up and down arrows?

Or how about the back arrows?

Jim

 

[HBcorpse]

Have you been told about the up and down arrows?

Or how about the back arrows?

Jim

Yeah I'm not sure I am in love with the up/down arrows...
If I fully understand what I've read, it's that you can go into either A/\ or A\/ and be able to access either option...so I don't know why they didn't just do away with the two separate menu options and just make ONE "Wattage/Voltage change" menu option, and once you've entered that one, just wait a second between up and down...

I heard about the back arrows. They are great.

 

[HBcorpse]

I think the biggest point of confusion is actually the units of measurement. Using my previous example... If there were like a small battery symbol with the number 700, to mean, 700 minutes remaining... and then that number shifted according to use, it would be a million times more usable than using the standard percentage that is interpreted as similar to the battery percentage reading on every other electronic device people interact with.

Yeah I gotcha...
But quite honestly, the new battery gauge isn't any "less informative" than the Cb option on a v2 or v2.5...

 

[rbrylawski]

Having read Marius' thoughts on the P3, I need to ask this whole thread a question...

I have an early Beta model, and I am still running v31 software...
I have seen several people mention that when they press the fire button, their main screen will display the -wattage-, the battery percentage, and the ohms of the atomizer.
When they press the button again, the display switches to show the -voltage-, battery percentage, and ohms...
Is that really what happens on the newer software?
I know with boost on, the right side of the display will alternate between ohms and boost readings, with each button press...
But does the left side alternate between displaying equivalent wattage and voltage levels?

HB, I've read your question a few times and people have agreed with you, but what you've written is NOT what I see. When I push the button the first time, my display shows Watts on Top with Battery Percentage Below and Boost on the Right half of the screen. When I push the buttons a 2nd time, I see Watts on Top, with Volts below and Boost on the Right half of the screen.

Is anyone getting email notifications for new posts in threads you're participating in? I haven't gotten a single once since yesterday. I was thinking the P3 Forum went silent and you all must be in a turkey coma!

EDIT: Just posting this post started the email notifications again..........odd

 

[HBcorpse]

HB, I've read your question a few times and people have agreed with you, but what you've written is NOT what I see. When I push the button the first time, my display shows Watts on Top with Battery Percentage Below and Boost on the Right half of the screen. When I push the button a 2nd time, I see Watts on Top, with Volts below and Boost on the Right half of the screen.

Very strange...
The right side of your screen doesn't display the ohms?

 

[Bronze]

Very strange...
The right side of your screen doesn't display the ohms?

Mine does.

 

[HBcorpse]

Mine does.

Honesty, I think you're both saying the same thing...just in different ways.
I'm only thinking that because I'm adding in what I've read about how the new display works...

 

[Bronze]

Here's what I just did.

1) Clicked the button: watts, volts, ohms
2) Clicked it again, watts, battery, boost

I'm in VW mode.

 

[rbrylawski]

Very strange...
The right side of your screen doesn't display the ohms?

Sorry, I just re-checked and the right side of my screen shows Boost at the same time it shows Watts with Battery Percentage below. On the 2nd click it shows Watts with Volts below and Ohms on the right.

 

[AstroTurf]

Here's what I just did.

1) Clicked the button: watts, volts, ohms
2) Clicked it again, watts, battery, boost

I'm in VW mode.

And with no BooST enabled, ohms will always be displayed on the right side of the display.

 

[AstroTurf]

No........The right side of my screen always shows the boost level.

What version software?

 

[HBcorpse]

Sorry, I just re-checked and the right side of my screen shows Boost at the same time it shows Watts with Battery Percentage below. On the 2nd click it shows Watts with Volts below and Ohms on the right.

What version software?

Yeah what software version?
RCL>INFO>first item displayed...