Other than the previous post, I have heard nothing but good about the VaporShark. I considered getting one myself.
Official ProVari 3 Thread - P3
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Other than the previous post, I have heard nothing but good about the VaporShark. I considered getting one myself.
There's a few places that do it, I'm talking to a couple different guys right now about getting it done. OCD, HBcorpse, etc.....
My VS started losing its finish within a week of getting just from taking it in and out of my pocket, couldn't use the skin because it was nearly impossible to keep it in my pocket.... My wife has it now, now I use mainly my P3s, Bap & Zero SX.
I still use my VS DNA 30's, but both had to sent back for repairs within 6 months. The built in batteries also do not last as long as a 30 dollar Istick. I still use them and enjoy the size and convenience, but if I wanted a usable little Box mod, Id go with an Istick. Just an opinion..
I have the iStick30 as a backup device. I like the VS's formfactor and size, overall build quality, finish, all taken from reviews. I'd consider the rDNA40. Never held one, of course, there are none in my neck of the woods.I still use my VS DNA 30's, but both had to sent back for repairs within 6 months. The built in batteries also do not last as long as a 30 dollar Istick. I still use them and enjoy the size and convenience, but if I wanted a usable little Box mod, Id go with an Istick. Just an opinion..
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Same here. I have an istick 30w and it's far superior to a vaporshark on build quality. just a shame it's a throw away device. not sure how the rdna and dna40 are though as I haven't held one. The previous versions weren't worth the money imhoI still use my VS DNA 30's, but both had to sent back for repairs within 6 months. The built in batteries also do not last as long as a 30 dollar Istick. I still use them and enjoy the size and convenience, but if I wanted a usable little Box mod, Id go with an Istick. Just an opinion..
I still use my VS DNA 30's, but both had to sent back for repairs within 6 months. The built in batteries also do not last as long as a 30 dollar Istick. I still use them and enjoy the size and convenience, but if I wanted a usable little Box mod, Id go with an Istick. Just an opinion..
I would not consider a mod with an integral battery. I was only interested in the rDNA40. The iStick is not a DNA40 is it? Didn't think it was.
Don't. Just DON'T. If you feel the need for a DNA40, go Vapor Flask. I promise you won't have buyer's remorse for it.
I believe it's a good thing that I have no clue as to what DNA means or rDNA. I'll just settle back in my recliner and vape my KFL on my P3.
It's that stuft - that does... stuff.
I saw it on CSI Miami.
Can I join you with my lowly Naughty Tanks?
If you're going to get a box mod these days, might as well get temperature control. With that said, there are STILL issues with the DNA40, so I'd avoid any mod with the DNA40. The Vapor Flask is probably the nicest looking "box" mods out there IMHO, and is very comfortable in the hand. I don't own one, but the owner of one of my local vape shops uses one exclusively, so I've played with it a few times.
Take a strong look at the SXmini. The new one, just released the past few days, has the SX350J board with temperature control. 2/3 the cost of a Vapor Flask, and worth every penny. You could probably pick up a used SXmini (S-Class, no longer made but still available new) now that the M-Class is out, but it doesn't have temperature control. YiHi have stated they'll attempt a firmware upgrade to add temperature control to the S-Class, but if it's even possible, it won't be as accurate due to the CPU not being strong enough.
The SXmini filled a much needed gap between ProVari and mech. I use the P3 for anything 20W or less, and the SXmini for anything over 20W. I've been using the SubTank mini at 18-20W exclusively on the P3 since I got it - it's a great tank. I use an Atlantis on the SXmini at 25-35W. Haven't touched my mech mod collection since I got the SXmini, but as these things go, I'll go back to mechs for a while, and repeat the cycle.
I hope ProVape releases a 35W, 18650-only, temperature controlled mod to stay competitive, assuming that's what they wish to do, instead of becoming more of a niche brand. I'd be willing to bet the P3 could handle the temperature control calculations with a (paid) firmware upgrade, but increasing wattage with ProVape's safety concerns due to the ability to use an 18350, likely wouldn't happen. 3.3V battery cutoff at 60W pulls about 20A (based on YiHi's stated efficiency) on the SXmini (which is why they recommend at least a 20A battery), so 30W would still pull too much current for an 18350 in the P3. A, B, or C - pick any two. That's why I said "18650-only" above.
Wow, a bit backwards from the trend, not that there's anything wrong with that. I have a ProVari v2.5 and a P3, and a bunch of mech mods. The SXmini is my only "box" mod. All the reviewers and bloggers said this would be the year of the box mod, and death of the tube mod. I don't see it to that extreme, but there is a huge trend towards box mods. I never thought I'd own one, but... it happened.
You HAVE to post photos of those when you get them in!!
I hate anything with that dreaded rubberized coating. Feels great in the hand at first, but wears out so quickly and looks awful. Probably helps them with initial sales - it's just long-term user satisfaction that's out the window. I love my black ProVari v2.5, but had it skinned to keep the finish from wearing off. I'm one of those people who like the "new" look, not the "worn" look. Besides the P3 beta being only available in satin silver, I like the feeling that I don't have to baby it as much. The only sign of wear so far is the button is shiny. Never noticed that happening on the 2.5 until I got the P3 and noticed it was matte, but not for long...
I wouldn't. Generally speaking, there is an inverse relationship between maH and Amps. Research anything higher than 2500maH, as it's likely to have a low amperage rating. I took a quick look at the links and they didn't test it at anything over 5A. Assuming the C in NCR means Cobalt, it's basically an unprotected ICR (different chemistry of course). I wouldn't touch it. Stick with a good IMR - AW (2200maH) or LG (2500maH). Overkill in the P3 at 20A each, but as they age, a little headroom adds another layer of safety.
I believe the "r" means removable battery. The non-r models do not have removable batteries.
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