Official Squape R[eloaded] thread!

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dems86

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So I decided to Looper my Calix up before bed and WOW! Did he nail that ;)
Yeah buddy!!!

What am I doing to relax after spending 2 hours breaking down and soaking and cleaning some new gear (including the SqR B-Deck, Nano Chimney, and Nano Bell Cap)

ff07b02291993007fba7dd921a473c3a.jpg


I'm kicking back with my buddy Calix and some Looper ;)

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vakaion

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What's up with the pin exactly? Are you needing to turn it out so far it becomes loose?
Pretty much. Not sure why it has started this after days of running perfectly, but it's now fluctuating resistance no matter its position right up to the point it's in so far it doesn't make contact with the mod. >_<
Tried pin adjustments, checked everything else was tight, gave it a good clean and dry, tried pin adjustments again.

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nevillebartos

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Pretty much. Not sure why it has started this after days of running perfectly, but it's now fluctuating resistance no matter its position right up to the point it's in so far it doesn't make contact with the mod. >_<
Tried pin adjustments, checked everything else was tight, gave it a good clean and dry, tried pin adjustments again.

Sent by carrier pigeon. :p

I'm not expert but I'd say the pin should be backed out just far enough to depress the spring on the mod... Just after a clean though I've found some interesting resistance readings, I reckon water gets down in the posts or something and messes with it until it dries up completely, might be worthwhile to leave it a little and see what happens.. If you have another atty on hand you could use that to cancel out any possibility of connection issues on the mod side, leaving only a few possible points left on the atty
 

vakaion

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I'm not expert but I'd say the pin should be backed out just far enough to depress the spring on the mod... Just after a clean though I've found some interesting resistance readings, I reckon water gets down in the posts or something and messes with it until it dries up completely, might be worthwhile to leave it a little and see what happens.. If you have another atty on hand you could use that to cancel out any possibility of connection issues on the mod side, leaving only a few possible points left on the atty

Yep, already using my Calix on the mod, no issues. Center pin on that is even less than where I had the Squapes at (~1mm) and has no connection problems.
When it started occurring I hadn't changed anything the previous couple of days apart from the wick! lol
Not a deck issue either, tried a coil without it installed and still couldn't get a stable reading. Posts and screws seem fine too.
It's sitting at home dismantled right now, when I get home later I'll try again.

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IanDVaypes

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The center pin is the weak link for all atties with ni200 builds. Ejuice will get into the threads and Jack with resistance readings. Using several strands from silicone wire worked great for me for over a month now. I haven't even moved the 510 center pin since I stuffed a little wire in the threads. It pokes out just enough to press the spring loaded pin on my mods a bit.

If you don't have access to the wire, I suppose that a strand of 30 awg ni200 in the threads will do. You can also bend some of the threads on the screw to increase the contact area as well.

Give it a shot, you won't be disappointed.
 
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nevillebartos

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Someone a while back mentioned peeling both outer layers of cotton off to wick the B - I tried that earlier today but tore off a strip a little to big so I folded it over itself to get it through the coil, the piece was so loosely holding itself together I didn't think it was going to go through, but it did. Ends are really thinned out and fluffed up in the base of the deck. Almost a tank later and this is looking like the best performance I've got out of the SqR yet!
 

SeniorBoy

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Someone a while back mentioned peeling both outer layers of cotton off to wick the B

Yep that's the ticket and glad it worked for you :)

Just a little practice and I'm sure you will get the hang of it. I also use a magnifying glass type of lamp with lots of light so I can grab the very very outer layer. Peel it slow and you should be fine. When a single layer of both sides of the KGD have been peeled off you are exposing the very very very fluffy part of the KGD which seems to wick better.

:)
 

Rikk

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Ok, you have to describe looper for us (me) now.... Right now... Sooner than later. ;)
Man.... It's the first cereal vape that I've had that actually tastes like a fruity cereal. And it's not even the fruit part so much as it is the cereal part. Hard to describe, but now I get the cereal part.
 
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Rikk

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@nevillebartos I cut a wide piece of cotton, about 6mm and pull both outer layers off and really almost stuff my coil full. And my channels are full of cotton too, but I make sure it's not packed but very fluffy. With my nickel builds I'm finding the more cotton I use the better. In this case, more is better. If you're not using protection, your milage my very. Temp protection that is. ;)
 

Rikk

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Yeah buddy!!!

What am I doing to relax after spending 2 hours breaking down and soaking and cleaning some new gear (including the SqR B-Deck, Nano Chimney, and Nano Bell Cap)

ff07b02291993007fba7dd921a473c3a.jpg


I'm kicking back with my buddy Calix and some Looper ;)

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Damn... Just the way I like to keep busy, and then relaxing.
 
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dems86

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Dems, or demo as auto correction would have it. Thoughts on your B deck when you get around to playing with it. I wanna stick mine back in but want to know what's working for others.

Oh, how you like your long mode? Is that new too?
Yeah, Coud9 had everything in stock so I was able to get the SqR stuff and K4 stuff together. Kudos to them do keeping the harder to get accessories in stock always.

It doesn't seem that long in the pic, huh? Looks longer put together and on a mod though, hehe. Of course, it holds double amount of juice now compared to before, and that was the point. Haven't noticed any sacrifice in flavor either, so I'm definitely recommending this if someone is looking for more capacity in their K4.

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vakaion

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The center pin is the weak link for all atties with ni200 builds. Ejuice will get into the threads and Jack with resistance readings. Using several strands from silicone wire worked great for me for over a month now. I haven't even moved the 510 center pin since I stuffed a little wire in the threads. It pokes out just enough to press the spring loaded pin on my mods a bit.

If you don't have access to the wire, I suppose that a strand of 30 awg ni200 in the threads will do. You can also bend some of the threads on the screw to increase the contact area as well.

Give it a shot, you won't be disappointed.

2 strands of 32g nickel did the trick. Thanks. :)
 

dems86

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Haha dammit, I'll have to dismantle the tank. [emoji14]ervy:
Give me a bit, I'll do it anyway. lol
Dismantle? You make it sound like you have to break it all down and empty the juice ;)

Haha, no worries, I'm not trying to rush you. When you refill is fine...assuming you don't take 5 days to vape through a tank or something, lol

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vakaion

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Dismantle? You make it sound like you have to break it all down and empty the juice ;)

Haha, no worries, I'm not trying to rush you. When you refill is fine...assuming you don't take 5 days to vape through a tank or something, lol

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Already took the tank off, untucked one of the wick tails, took photos, reassembled.
It's the uploading photos that takes the longest haha.
 
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