Official Squape R[eloaded] thread!
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Nah, I'm with you on that one, I love a good 5 ml of capacity. With 4 tanks in rotation, I rarely refill more often than every 2 days. Lovin' it 
You know i just put my normal squape tank back on and wow in just readjusting to the size. It's huuuge in comparsion!
Went back on to c9v to have a look and maybe an impulse buy again...Out of stock!!
totally agree with you. I'd love to not faff around filling up 2or3 times a day etc but i need a stealth set up...need something practical.
I'm selling my p3and kayfun4 just because it's huuge. It's like a lightsaber! Need to use it on 18500 mode as 18350's hardly last me anytime at all.
Also with my reign of bad luck with it i think I'm just going to sell it. I can't afford to keep buying glass tanks etc every other week.
However when I'm home I'd love a huge tank
Gna try and fix my broken squapeR base so can put my other tank topper on so I'll have 2 squape R's yaaaaay lol
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Wow... Out of stock on the bell cap. I must have got mine just it time. Thanks for the suggestion by the way. Can't wait to get it and try it out.You know i just put my normal squape tank back on and wow in just readjusting to the size. It's huuuge in comparsion!
Went back on to c9v to have a look and maybe an impulse buy again...Out of stock!!
totally agree with you. I'd love to not faff around filling up 2or3 times a day etc but i need a stealth set up...need something practical.
I'm selling my p3and kayfun4 just because it's huuge. It's like a lightsaber! Need to use it on 18500 mode as 18350's hardly last me anytime at all.
Also with my reign of bad luck with it i think I'm just going to sell it. I can't afford to keep buying glass tanks etc every other week.
However when I'm home I'd love a huge tank
Gna try and fix my broken squapeR base so can put my other tank topper on so I'll have 2 squape R's yaaaaay lol
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I won't send pictures and rub it in.... I promise
Wow... Out of stock on the bell cap. I must have got mine just it time. Thanks for the suggestion by the way. Can't wait to get it and try it out.
I won't send pictures and rub it in.... I promise
Your welcome, anything i can do to help
haha its fine but just be careful with it please...
Tried earlier tonight, cutting the wick straight at the edges of the base, and I get leaking... Pretty bad too.
PG..I've been having a similar problem with my Squape and I was cutting my wick flush with the deck. After a few trials (and a significant loss of juice) I tried cutting my wicks a bit further so that when I tuck them in the juice channels they are halfway down the channels. Works like a charm..not a single leak for the past 10 days or so
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Check it out, they are very close indeed!!!
https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=876995705682503
https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=824947894209291
https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=876995705682503
https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=824947894209291
They're listed as "coming soon", at Cloud9 in the UK, so yeah, shouldn't be too long
The SQuape is a damn juice guzzler as it is though, with the W deck, so I think I'll stick with those, at least for now
The SQuape is a damn juice guzzler as it is though, with the W deck, so I think I'll stick with those, at least for now
Can't wait so excited!!
I just checked you're right...couldn't find it before.They're listed as "coming soon", at Cloud9 in the UK, so yeah, shouldn't be too long
The SQuape is a damn juice guzzler as it is though, with the W deck, so I think I'll stick with those, at least for now
I agree, I'm only using the s deck and its already time for a refill!
One thing i noticed was that with the bell vape top the juice lasted a lot longer than i imagined...Unsure how or why but it did!
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Look closely at the picture. There are holes to feed the liquid to the cotton and coil, no squonking. Not the way I see it, at least.
I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around the bottom fed deck...? Aren't we kind of bottom feeding now, thru the vertical channels? I don't understand how that would improve anything? Maybe because I'm tired and stuck at work. LOL.
I looked at the picture again and I do see a tiny hole on the side but it looks like it has shallow grooves cut out of the top too. I'm not getting it.
So not a bottom fed deck in squonking terms then. It looks like the bottom is completely covered in cotton/juice like a shallow reservoir. They list in the description many different coil sizes and variations. So maybe it's leaning more towards nickel build because if your using 28ga nickel your coils can get pretty large. I don't know, I'm just grasping at straws right now.
But I'm eager to try it. I am a little disappointed that it's not a squonker tho.
So not a bottom fed deck in squonking terms then. It looks like the bottom is completely covered in cotton/juice like a shallow reservoir. They list in the description many different coil sizes and variations. So maybe it's leaning more towards nickel build because if your using 28ga nickel your coils can get pretty large. I don't know, I'm just grasping at straws right now.
But I'm eager to try it. I am a little disappointed that it's not a squonker tho.
Glad I've been keeping up with this thread. I have my first DNA40 mod on the way (Hana V4D) and knew I remembered some discussion on SqR nickel builds. Just ordered a couple of spools of tempered Ni200 from Stealth Vape. $18 to my door isn't too bad. Hopefully it won't take forever to get here.
Yep, I learned that pretty early on when using nickel with these decks. My first thought was with the decks being nonconducting that I could build some big-... coils and if they touched the deck it wouldn't matter because it wouldn't short. Well, it didn't short but it sure played havoc with my resistance. If I had any part of the coil touching the deck my resistance was all over the place; and I would never know what resistance I would end up with after it refined. And every time it refined it was different.
That was my experience, but now that I'm using tempered 30ga nickel it's super easy to keep the coil away from the deck.
I haven't had one bad coil since I learned that. I mean this thing is a dream to build nickel on. I don't dread it or spend hours trying to figure out what the heck is going on anymore.
I think all attys have their learning curve with nickel, and some just plain don't work (my Russian 91 for one), but once you have that figured out, nickels awesome.
I haven't tried nickel on my Kayfun 4 yet, but next build I'm going to.
Got myself a squape R last week and so far my experiences have been good. This is my first rebuildable, running on a new VS rDNA 40 which I also just got. Had previously been running nautilus mini on istick 20w and nautilus big on the VS for a couple days, massive difference with the squape.
I'm running 28g ni200, 12 wraps around a 3ish mm threaded bolt and koga cotton. Threading the cotton messes with the wire a bit but I have found not tightening down on the screws all the way until after the cotton is positioned provides a little self correction. I tried wrapping the wire all the way around the screw but found more success with the wire extending only about 1/3 of the circumference, and getting the screw down to the point of a reasonable amount of torque.
Keeping the coil from touching the non conductive coating definitely appears to assist in stabilizing resistance, why this is the case I have no idea?
Ive tried running the wick a few ways, currently what seems to be working best for me is having the cotton hang down into the channels just as far as the gap goes. Running it all the way down the channels didnt work for me, tucking it in towards the center didn't work that well either. I'm yet to try the method of thinned out cotton down the channels.
What finally got me a stable resistance was the bloody adjustable connector, I had to wind it a fair way out and it actually feels kind of rattly, it seems to have stayed in place for today but I'll try and find a more semi permanent fix.
Any thoughts on my build methods welcomed!
I'm running 28g ni200, 12 wraps around a 3ish mm threaded bolt and koga cotton. Threading the cotton messes with the wire a bit but I have found not tightening down on the screws all the way until after the cotton is positioned provides a little self correction. I tried wrapping the wire all the way around the screw but found more success with the wire extending only about 1/3 of the circumference, and getting the screw down to the point of a reasonable amount of torque.
Keeping the coil from touching the non conductive coating definitely appears to assist in stabilizing resistance, why this is the case I have no idea?
Ive tried running the wick a few ways, currently what seems to be working best for me is having the cotton hang down into the channels just as far as the gap goes. Running it all the way down the channels didnt work for me, tucking it in towards the center didn't work that well either. I'm yet to try the method of thinned out cotton down the channels.
What finally got me a stable resistance was the bloody adjustable connector, I had to wind it a fair way out and it actually feels kind of rattly, it seems to have stayed in place for today but I'll try and find a more semi permanent fix.
Any thoughts on my build methods welcomed!
Seems like their are a lot of folks running DNA40 temp control, as a DNA fan boy, I'm sorry to read and see all the negative complaints about the DNA40 and temp control, so in a way maybe I was lucky NOT jumping on the DNA40 bandwagon quickly...I didn't mainly because I rarely go above 20 watts, and generally stay around 15 watts pretty much all the time, since my average coil is 1.2 to 1.6 ohms. (Generally)
So are you guys having good success with your DNA40? Are they genuine or clone? I've actually read some of the clones chips work more stable than the real DNA40, which I find hard to believe.
So are you guys having good success with your DNA40? Are they genuine or clone? I've actually read some of the clones chips work more stable than the real DNA40, which I find hard to believe.
I used a few strands from silicone wire to place in the threads of the adjustable 510 pin. It takes some force to screw the pin in but it works wonders with the dna 40 board. Not one resistance issue after that. It provides a sturdy 510 connection. E juice won't disrupt the resistance when it enters the threads.
Sounds like you've almost nailed it and congrats on your new setup.
Are you doing spaced or contact coils? I found when using 28g it wasn't as easy keeping the coil away from the deck. Ever since I started using tempered, wicking has become much easier. I can tighten and arrange my coil where I want it before I take my rod out, and stuff a good chunk of cotton in there without destroying my build, and that's with 30ga.
I haven't had to have my 510 PIN out so far it becomes almost unstable. But I do need to keep it real clean so it doesn't mess with resistance. I find not over juicing when wicking helps a lot too. And per the above recommendation, I wonder if Teflon tape would work and be easier to use over the Teflon wire?
@Phone Guy - I'm using the Vapor Flask with a legit DNA 40 board. I only bought mine this year, I've had it a couple months maybe and love it. I've quickly become a fan boy too but didn't run into any of the issues that some have. Like the screen glitch or power jumps. It has been a huge learning curve with nickel and if I had to deal with some of those issues at the same time, I could see that being a real turnoff. But I would absolutely buy another DNA 40 board without hesitation over the ones coming out of China. In fact, I so want another Flask. I'll get a second sometime here over the next few months.
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