ohm safety

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darkzero

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I have a good Klein multimeter but other than checking batteries and ohms I don't know how to use it. Do you just put the leads on the positive and negative posts on the atty and hold the fire button. What should the MM be set on...V?

It would be very similar to checking batteries. Not sure if your MM has different voltage ranges, if it does choose the one with the range you need. Same setting as you check your batteries should be fine. Touch each of the atty posts with each lead then fire. Doesn't matter which lead goes on what posts, you'll get the same reading, the MM will just read reveresed polarity if backwards. But if you want to want to measure the correct posts, red will go on the post furthest away from the juice hole.
 

Treebeard

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It would be very similar to checking batteries. Not sure if your MM has different voltage ranges, if it does choose the one with the range you need. Same setting as you check your batteries should be fine. Touch each of the atty posts with each lead then fire. Doesn't matter which lead goes on what posts, you'll get the same reading, the MM will just read reveresed polarity if backwards. But if you want to want to measure the correct posts, red will go on the post furthest away from the juice hole.

Yahoo! I made the measurements with out burning the house down:

Fully closed - 3.175

Percieved mid point - 3.93

Fully open - 5.41

Sound right?
 

darkzero

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Yahoo! I made the measurements with out burning the house down:

Fully closed - 3.175

Percieved mid point - 3.93

Fully open - 5.41

Sound right?

Good job! Yup that's right. Sounds like it's doing it job. Do you have any 32 awg to try? That should give you that hot vape if that's what you'relooking for. If not I can send you some. My 32 just sits in the dark bored as hell.
 

Treebeard

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Good job! Yup that's right. Sounds like it's doing it job. Do you have any 32 awg to try? That should give you that hot vape if that's what you'relooking for. If not I can send you some. My 32 just sits in the dark bored as hell.

Same here. I have a 100ft roll I got from Temco and haven't used since I got my first REO. I'll do some spearmentin' and try to figure out whats gonna be the best combination for my tastes. I think I'm just in a learning curve vortex with the VV thing.

Thanks for the wire offer and I really, really, really appreciate you and pdib for baby sitting me through this. You guys are the best! Now I'm gonna have to let to Rob know that I don't need to send it in (after sending a plea for help) and that I'm just an idiot.
 

ChrisEU

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I am not Rob, but I know a bit about DC/DC converters - and I prefer the VVs to the mech Reos.

The VV chip in the Reos is a very basic step down regulator - it can only regulate voltage downwards, which is why we use stacked batteries with it. It has an over current protection which appears to be set at 3 amps output - maybe even a bit higher, like 3.5.

It doesn't measure resistance at all, when the resistance lowers, the current will rise and the protection will cut off eventually.

If you set it to 5.5V and it is not much hotter than at 4V, but still firing, there is something wrong with the connection or the atomizer.
 

darkzero

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I am not Rob, but I know a bit about DC/DC converters - and I prefer the VVs to the mech Reos.

The VV chip in the Reos is a very basic step down regulator - it can only regulate voltage downwards, which is why we use stacked batteries with it. It has an over current protection which appears to be set at 3 amps output - maybe even a bit higher, like 3.5.

It doesn't measure resistance at all, when the resistance lowers, the current will rise and the protection will cut off eventually.

If you set it to 5.5V and it is not much hotter than at 4V, but still firing, there is something wrong with the connection or the atomizer.

Almost similar to the converters used in flashlights except we commonly used CC buck & boost converters with sense resistors to set output. Although there were VV converters they don't make much sense for LEDs. I never thought much about it but what are the VW converters used for vaping like the Kick? Are they CC? Do you know which IC is used in the VVG? I'm the opposite, I prefer the mech Reos but I hate direct drive flashlights.
 

ChrisEU

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The Kick and similar devices use the buck/boost stuff - usually from TI. They are microprocessor controlled, unlike the VV Reo, which appears to be completely analog. No, I don't know what chip is used.
The MP control has a downside, because they can, they implement "short circuit" as a function of the resistance instead of amperage, but then they have to decide on a value - often 1.2 Ohms.

So, while the micro processor controlled stuff is more convenient, it usually has two or even three "protections", limiting the vape. Our VV Reo just has the amp limit, as far as I can tell.
 

nerak

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Thanks for the help guys. Upon further deliberation, it may be a problem with the new RM2. It doesn't fire well on my other two (mech) REOs either. Granted, it is a 1.8 coil but it should produce at least a halfway decent hit on the mechs with 4.0 left on the batteries....yes?

Just wondering something.....Are you turning the voltage wheel all the way to the right? This sounds to me like you are turning it to the left, the lowest volts.

I have run 1.8 and 1.5 on the VV Grand. It only fires on the lowest setting. It shuts down when I go higher.
 

Treebeard

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Just wondering something.....Are you turning the voltage wheel all the way to the right? This sounds to me like you are turning it to the left, the lowest volts.

I have run 1.8 and 1.5 on the VV Grand. It only fires on the lowest setting. It shuts down when I go higher.

Turning the wheel all the way right (counter clockwise lowest setting) gave me 3.175v, turning to middle gave 3.96v and all the way to the left (clockwise highest setting) read 5.41v. These reading were taken with a 2.0~2.1 ohm coil installed.
 
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