Ohms and Voltage Relationship

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elewojo

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Jan 16, 2014
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I have a bombshell battery mod that delivers 6 volts and through every clearomizer or cartomizer tank i've tried it always burns the liquid and leaves a chemical-burn taste in my mouth. I've heard a lot of information about the relationship between Ohms and volts but none of it has really helped me. I've heard people say that if you buy a dual coil tank, than each coil accounts for the Ohms of the tank, doubling the resistance. (like if I have a 2.1 Ohm tank with dual coil it is effectively a 4.2 ohm tank). I've hear other people say that's wrong. I'm a bit of nube and I'd really appreciate it if someone could help me deal with this because I'm sick of buying new tanks that are supposed to be high enough resistance only to find out I've wasted my money on another tank that can't handle the volts delivered by my battery. I have an Iclear 30 clearomizer, which has been doing a better job of not burning my vapor than anything else i've tried, but I still can't take those deep, long draws i loved so much from a normal ciggy. If anyone has any products they'd recommend that might do the trick please post them.
Thanks!
 
I have an MVP and run around 3.8 to 4.1 volts. The lower the ohms the hotter it burns so you can back off voltage. At least that's my understanding. Dual coil on my setups do not up the ohms as far as I can tell. It is set by the coil manufacturer. The MVP has a ohm meter built in so I always know what its set at. I use a Smok PBC V2 tank and its dual coil at 2.5 ohms. I run around 4 to 4.2 volts on that tank. Then I also have iClear 16's that Are around 2-2.2 ohms and I run at 4.4 volts. Its personal preference on taste as far as I can tell. I am attaching a chart that has helped me that I got from my Vape Shop.
General Safe Vaping Power | Voltage | Resistance | Ohm Chart
 
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Volts = Amps * Resistance.

Or, to rephrase a bit, Amps = Volts / Resistance

Six volts is really high, so you'd want a high resistance to put the amps in reasonable range--and hence the wattage.

Watts = Voltage^2 / Resistance

Most of us think more easily in watts, and where your sweet spot is in watts depends. Mine happens to be about 6 watts, others are higher, some are MUCH higher!

In your case, if you start at the "normal" base of 6 watts, 6 watts = 6 volts^2 / Resistance. Or, 6 = 36 / x.

X also equals six, so you'd want a resistance of 6 ohms, which is really high (I've never seen an atty with a resistance of 6).

You'll have better luck finding 3 ohm coils, giving you 12 watts...high, but not unreasonably so.

In the case of a dual coil, you can (and I have) measure(d) the resistance directly. A 1.5 ohm dual coil measures at 1.5 ohms on the tester, which means that each coil must be 3 ohms. However, said 1.5 ohm coil would give you 12 watts per leg, or 24 watts total--really high, but less burny than a single coil 1.5 ohm.
 

*deleon517*

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the main issue you are experiencing is clearmizers and cartomizers typically burn under high voltages. your best best of any type of decent vape would be a 3.0ohm dct system. its essentially a cartomizer with liquid draw holes on the side, inside of a tank filled with liquid. the tank will keep the cartomizer filled and help prevent burning. of course if your using very high vg juice(above 50%vg), it may have issues wicking and it will be back to the same results.

the way voltage and ohm work in relations to each other is called wattage. the higher the voltage and lower the ohm's the more heat(wattage) will be emitted. Not all systems work well at high temps and thus resulting in the drying and burning of the filler(wicking material). easy way around that would find something that would allow the wicking material to constantly stay wet and avoid burning when dried out.
 

Dakota Jim

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Prebuilt coils state the correct resistance so if it says it is 2.1 ohms then there are two 4.2 ohm coils (dual coil heads are always in parallel - so the final total resistance is half of the individual coils)

6 volts at 2.1 ohms comes to a little more than 17 watts - about 90% of all people who vape prefer the 7-10 watt range so this could be why you are getting the burnt taste

you need high resistance coils (3.5 to 5 ohm) to get in the 7.2 to 10.5 watt range

just remember that everyone has their own preference for flavor - I have met people that will sacrifice all flavor and get a nasty burnt taste just so they can tell people they are vaping at 18-20 watts and blowing huge clouds of vapor

most high wattage vapors have modded their tanks or drippers to increase airflow also (drilling out the air holes to a slightly larger size)

I would try the Iclear30 on a regular ego battery and see how it tastes (you may have already burnt the heads so everything may taste burnt until you put a new head on it)
 

elewojo

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Jan 16, 2014
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United States
Thanks for that chart, it was extremely helpful! So ideally i'd want a 4.5 ohm resistance. My mod is not variable voltage so I can't drop below six volts, and I could buy a lower voltage battery but that would defeat the purpose of having this specific product in the first place. So do you know where I might find a 4.5 ohm tank? I'm looking online and I can't find anything.
 

LPDoll

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I have an MVP and run around 3.8 to 4.1 volts. The lower the ohms the hotter it burns so you can back off voltage. At least that's my understanding. Dual coil on my setups do not up the ohms as far as I can tell. It is set by the coil manufacturer. The MVP has a ohm meter built in so I always know what its set at. I use a Smok PBC V2 tank and its dual coil at 2.5 ohms. I run around 4 to 4.2 volts on that tank. Then I also have iClear 16's that Are around 2-2.2 ohms and I run at 4.4 volts. Its personal preference on taste as far as I can tell. I am attaching a chart that has helped me that I got from my Vape Shop.
General Safe Vaping Power | Voltage | Resistance | Ohm Chart

I really needed this information. I have been so confused about ohms and vv's and vw's. I love this website too. Thanks!
 

p.opus

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Here's an answer I wrote up in another thread....Hope this helps...

You asked.....Here's how wattage, resistance, voltage all mix together.

Before we start, Watts at the coil is what produces the flavor, higher wattage -> Higher Temperature -> more flavor and more vapor (until you go too high and burn the juice....)

Ohms Law and Watts Law state the following for a simple DC circuit. Watts = Voltage*Current.... Current = Voltage/Resistance. So Watts = Voltage*Voltage/Resistance

When you had an Ego Stick Battery or unregulated battery, The voltage output of your battery was fixed. Thus the only way to coax out more temperature at the coil was to lower it's resistance. This is why people use 1.8 ohm coils or lower on standard non regulated batteries. If Voltage remains constant, then when resistance goes down, Watts goes up...More flavor, More Temp.... Problem is. It's not easy to set the resistance to a coil. Once it's "wrapped" it's pretty much set. So you are stuck with buying a lower resistance coil from the manufacturer, or coiling your own heads.

So The Variable Voltage Battery came into play. I can't easily change resistance, but I can raise voltage. Thus if resistance stays constant, when I increase voltage, I increase wattage. Much easier for us to control the flavor. Most people simply set their batteries at a low value and then bump up the voltage until it "tastes right". If you already know what your coil resistance is, and what Wattage you want at the coil, then you can calculate what voltage you need to get to your target wattage. There are also Voltage and resistance tables online that allow you to have a good starting point for your adjustments.

One little problem with variable voltage. Let's say I take off one tank and put on a new one....Even though Kanger, Innokin, or whoever says that it's a 1.8 ohm coil, it can actually be up to .3 to .4 ohms different. So when I put on my new tank with it's atty and take a draw at my desired voltage, all of the sudden, the vape is not as intense, or tastes burnt. This is because resistance varies from coil to coil. It can also vary over the life of the coil. So with variable voltage, you have to continue to tweak your settings when you change atty heads or as the atty head ages.

Here's where Variable Wattage comes in. Let's say I discover that I like vaping a particular juice at 7.5 watts. I may have discovered this using variable voltage....(4.3 volts, 2.5 ohm resistance). So now I set my Variable Wattage to 7.5 watts. The device will measure the coil resistance and then automatically adjust the volts up or down to produce 7.5 watts. If I put my juice in a new tank, and the atty head changes resistance, I still get 7.5 watts and the same flavor....If my coil changes in resistance over time...I still produce 7.5 watts and my flavor stays consistent.

So that's how resistance plays into the whole variable voltage/variable wattage discussion and why lower resistance heads are preferred on standard non regulated batteries.

One final word. If you have a battery that does variable voltage and variable wattage, realize these are TWO DISTINCT and MUTUALLY EXCLUSIVE modes. If the battery is in variable voltage mode, it will fire at the set voltage regardless of the resistance of the coil. If the battery is in variable wattage mode, it will automatically adjust the voltage of the battery to maintain the set wattage.
 
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*deleon517*

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ideally you would want to have something similar to this for a cartomizer: Dual Coil XL Tank replacement 510 cartomizer for 3.5 and 6ml SmokTank XL, UDCT, Artemas - w/flange and 1, 2 or 3 holes.

and something for like this for the tank: SmokTank XL - Gun Metal Locking Dual Coil Cartomizer Tank - New tank design for 510 PV's! 6ml 1.5ohm

thats if you choose to go this route. not everything is right for everyone, but this is a better option for you device. set voltage devices limit what will work well on them.
 

elewojo

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Jan 16, 2014
7
1
United States
I've also noticed with my Iclear 30, which is a top coil, that the more I fill it up, the less likely I am to get a burnt taste, so does that mean that the juice is cooling the top coil? and if so, does that mean I should invest in a bottom coil clearo so that the juice cools the coil at the bottom of the tank, and then I can vape all the way to the bottom? Or am I just being ignorant?
Thanks for all your fast and well thought out answers guys, I should have come to this forum sooner.
 
I've also noticed with my Iclear 30, which is a top coil, that the more I fill it up, the less likely I am to get a burnt taste, so does that mean that the juice is cooling the top coil? and if so, does that mean I should invest in a bottom coil clearo so that the juice cools the coil at the bottom of the tank, and then I can vape all the way to the bottom? Or am I just being ignorant?
Thanks for all your fast and well thought out answers guys, I should have come to this forum sooner.

I have notices this with the iClear 16's as well. My Bottom Coil Smok tank doesn't do this.
 

BillyWJ

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Thanks for that chart, it was extremely helpful! So ideally i'd want a 4.5 ohm resistance. My mod is not variable voltage so I can't drop below six volts, and I could buy a lower voltage battery but that would defeat the purpose of having this specific product in the first place. So do you know where I might find a 4.5 ohm tank? I'm looking online and I can't find anything.

Edit - okay, I guess 6volt fixed was common in the early days. I would guess what you need is a Kick for the mod, to regulate it down to the 4 volt range. Then you can use anything you want.
 
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j3illy

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and if so, does that mean I should invest in a bottom coil clearo so that the juice cools the coil at the bottom of the tank, and then I can vape all the way to the bottom? Or am I just being ignorant?
From what I've read about BCC's, you can actually have the opposite of this happen, where the coil at the bottom will literally burn/ruin all the juice in the tank. This isn't an issue w/ top-coil since the coil is never immersed in the juice, while it always is fully in a BCC. Then there's the other issue about BCC's if they get too low, where they can start gurgling/spitting cuz they're not full enough.
 

Randelic

Full Member
Jan 12, 2014
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Dickson, TN
I have an MVP and run around 3.8 to 4.1 volts. The lower the ohms the hotter it burns so you can back off voltage. At least that's my understanding. Dual coil on my setups do not up the ohms as far as I can tell. It is set by the coil manufacturer. The MVP has a ohm meter built in so I always know what its set at. I use a Smok PBC V2 tank and its dual coil at 2.5 ohms. I run around 4 to 4.2 volts on that tank. Then I also have iClear 16's that Are around 2-2.2 ohms and I run at 4.4 volts. Its personal preference on taste as far as I can tell. I am attaching a chart that has helped me that I got from my Vape Shop.
General Safe Vaping Power | Voltage | Resistance | Ohm Chart

Awesome chart, just what I was looking for!
 

sawlight

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Edit - okay, I guess 6volt fixed was common in the early days. I would guess what you need is a Kick for the mod, to regulate it down to the 4 volt range. Then you can use anything you want.

The kick will not work at 6v, it's designed to regulate and boost 3.7v, 6v will burn it up.
 
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