Ohms

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Baditude

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It's better (as in "safer") for a coil to increase in resistance than to drop in resistance. I know you're new to vaping, but I do hope you know that 0.00 ohm represents a hard short.

The more resistance you have with the coil, the higher the ohms will be and the less amps from the battery are needed. The lower the resistance of the coil, the lower the ohm will be and higher amps will be required to fire the coil. Note below, the lower the ohm, the higher the amp draw of the coil.

1.0 ohm = 4.2 amp draw
0.9 ohm = 4.6 amp draw
0.8 ohm = 5.2 amp draw
0.7 ohms = 6 amp draw
0.6 ohms = 7 amp draw
0.5 ohms = 8.4 amp draw
0.4 ohms = 10.5 amp draw
0.3 ohms = 14.0 amp draw
0.2 ohms = 21.0 amp draw
0.15 ohms = 28 amp draw
0.1 ohms = 42.0 amp draw
0.0 ohms = dead short = battery goes into thermal runaway

Bottom line: never exceed the battery's CDR. To do so is abusing the battery and dangerous.
 
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Punk In Drublic

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Don’t assume just because someone is new to vaping and hasn’t been brought up with MTL and high resistance coils that they haven’t got a clue. ECF welcomes everyone, regardless of experience. Everyone has to start somewhere and it’s better to ask questions and be educated than to be made fun of just because they were not part of the whole old school way. The goal here is to quit smoking, fail to see how that can be criticized.

@Itsdrew93 – without knowing your exact application and how you are measuring the coil I will reply. First, mods and even proprietary resistance meters are not 100% accurate. Even expensive multimeters could have a +/- variation which is usually stated within the instructions or the meter itself. Technically, mods should be measured and calibrated at the 510 connection to accommodate any internal resistance, but if you watch some of DJLsb Vapes videos, you will see that almost all of them are not 100% accurate when compared to sophisticated measuring equipment.

The resistance you see on the packaging of mass produced drop in coils for RDA’s is probably an average sum from the first batch of coils made. There will be variations with the manufacturing and the coils will be measured with full length leads – cutting them to length will change the resistance. And the actual resistance of your RDA deck can also influence the reading.

Same can be applied to cartridge coils (if that is what they are referred to) that you screw/drop into a subohm tank.

Small variations such as what you discovered is safe.

@Baditude - Well said :thumb:
 
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stols001

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Well to the OP you asked a perfectly legitimate question that I wondered about when I was new. Don't be ECF offended stick around, just know that we all do make (sometimes not that funny I have been guilty of it, too) jokes on occasion, I kind of thought this one fell flat etc. but just move on with your ECF time. That slight difference is nothing to worry about could be slight differences in the coil and/or some mods read coils slightly differently, so it could just be your mod's board, for example I have one mod that consistently reads coils a bit high. It's not a problem, just prime and increase wattage like you would normally until you reach a satisfying vape and let the mod calculate however it wants to calculate, it's not enough of a difference to worry about, etc.

Welcome aboard.

Anna
 

Itsdrew93

Senior Member
Aug 8, 2018
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Well
Don’t assume just because someone is new to vaping and hasn’t been brought up with MTL and high resistance coils that they haven’t got a clue. ECF welcomes everyone, regardless of experience. Everyone has to start somewhere and it’s better to ask questions and be educated than to be made fun of just because they were not part of the whole old school way. The goal here is to quit smoking, fail to see how that can be criticized.

@Itsdrew93 – without knowing your exact application and how you are measuring the coil I will reply. First, mods and even proprietary resistance meters are not 100% accurate. Even expensive multimeters could have a +/- variation which is usually stated within the instructions or the meter itself. Technically, mods should be measured and calibrated at the 510 connection to accommodate any internal resistance, but if you watch some of DJLsb Vapes videos, you will see that almost all of them are not 100% accurate when compared to sophisticated measuring equipment.

The resistance you see on the packaging of mass produced drop in coils for RDA’s is probably an average sum from the first batch of coils made. There will be variations with the manufacturing and the coils will be measured with full length leads – cutting them to length will change the resistance. And the actual resistance of your RDA deck can also influence the reading.

Same can be applied to cartridge coils (if that is what they are referred to) that you screw/drop into a subohm tank.

Small variations such as what you discovered is safe.

@Baditude - Well said :thumb:
Well said and thank you
 

Itsdrew93

Senior Member
Aug 8, 2018
100
158
Well to the OP you asked a perfectly legitimate question that I wondered about when I was new. Don't be ECF offended stick around, just know that we all do make (sometimes not that funny I have been guilty of it, too) jokes on occasion, I kind of thought this one fell flat etc. but just move on with your ECF time. That slight difference is nothing to worry about could be slight differences in the coil and/or some mods read coils slightly differently, so it could just be your mod's board, for example I have one mod that consistently reads coils a bit high. It's not a problem, just prime and increase wattage like you would normally until you reach a satisfying vape and let the mod calculate however it wants to calculate, it's not enough of a difference to worry about, etc.

Welcome aboard.

Anna
Thank you
 

Itsdrew93

Senior Member
Aug 8, 2018
100
158
Don’t assume just because someone is new to vaping and hasn’t been brought up with MTL and high resistance coils that they haven’t got a clue. ECF welcomes everyone, regardless of experience. Everyone has to start somewhere and it’s better to ask questions and be educated than to be made fun of just because they were not part of the whole old school way. The goal here is to quit smoking, fail to see how that can be criticized.

@Itsdrew93 – without knowing your exact application and how you are measuring the coil I will reply. First, mods and even proprietary resistance meters are not 100% accurate. Even expensive multimeters could have a +/- variation which is usually stated within the instructions or the meter itself. Technically, mods should be measured and calibrated at the 510 connection to accommodate any internal resistance, but if you watch some of DJLsb Vapes videos, you will see that almost all of them are not 100% accurate when compared to sophisticated measuring equipment.

The resistance you see on the packaging of mass produced drop in coils for RDA’s is probably an average sum from the first batch of coils made. There will be variations with the manufacturing and the coils will be measured with full length leads – cutting them to length will change the resistance. And the actual resistance of your RDA deck can also influence the reading.

Same can be applied to cartridge coils (if that is what they are referred to) that you screw/drop into a subohm tank.

Small variations such as what you discovered is safe.

@Baditude - Well said :thumb:
I use cartridge coils and rda coils just experimenting lol
 

Punk In Drublic

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I use cartridge coils and rda coils just experimenting lol

And there is nothing wrong with that – just keep it within the limits as @Batitude pointed out.

Love experimenting. Keeps the mind busy and off thinking about smoking. And as much as opinions from others are appreciated, one can learn more and form their own opinion by trying it themselves.
 

bwh79

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I do hope you know that 0.00 ohm represents a hard short.

[...]

0.15 ohms = 28 amp draw
0.1 ohms = 42.0 amp draw
0.0 ohms = dead short = battery goes into thermal runaway
Nitpick: there's no such thing as "zero ohms." There is always some amount of resistance. It might be 0.1, 0.01, or 0.000000001, but there's no such thing as zero point zero; it just can't happen, it's a physical impossibility. A household electrician would probably consider any of our circuits a "hard short" (they deal with ranges from dozens of ohms to hundreds of ohms, while we're over here dealing with tiny fractions of one.) There is no single point where something goes from being "not a short" to "is a short." The question, then, becomes "how short is too short?" And that, of course, depends on which device you select and what cell(s) you choose to power it with.
 

Baditude

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Nitpick: there's no such thing as "zero ohms." There is always some amount of resistance. It might be 0.1, 0.01, or 0.000000001, but there's no such thing as zero point zero; it just can't happen, it's a physical impossibility. A household electrician would probably consider any of our circuits a "hard short" (they deal with ranges from dozens of ohms to hundreds of ohms, while we're over here dealing with tiny fractions of one.) There is no single point where something goes from being "not a short" to "is a short." The question, then, becomes "how short is too short?" And that, of course, depends on which device you select and what cell(s) you choose to power it with.
Refuting+with+Defensive+Arguments%3A.jpg
 
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evan le'garde

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Would an atomizer with a built in display which can show ohms, volts, watts etc be much more accurate than the current state of the art devices ?.

The physical connection between a mod and an atomizer can interfere with how the mod determines factors such as ohms.

And in addition to it's practical functions, it would be pretty cool !.
:thumbs:
 

United States

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Example:

I have one device that shows my tank coil is a 1.67. Same tank on another device shows 1.77. On a third device it shows between 1.88 and 2.03. Put it back on device one and it shows 1.67 again.

I wonder if metal makeup between the actual drop in and the reading point inside can play a role? ie different metals make better counduits.... gold plated junk metal alloy versus say, a non plated steel derivitive for example.
 
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Baditude

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Ridgeway, Ohio
I have one device that shows my tank coil is a 1.67. Same tank on another device shows 1.77. On a third device it shows between 1.88 and 2.03. Put it back on device one and it shows 1.67 again.
I think the lack of consistancy simply shows the difference in the accuracy of different ohm meters inside of regulated mods or a box ohm reader. Especially when measuring in the tenths and hundreths of an ohm.

Different metals do play a minor role in atomizer resistance and may also play a role in the amount of battery voltage drop.
 

Punk In Drublic

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Nitpick: there's no such thing as "zero ohms." There is always some amount of resistance. It might be 0.1, 0.01, or 0.000000001, but there's no such thing as zero point zero; it just can't happen, it's a physical impossibility. A household electrician would probably consider any of our circuits a "hard short" (they deal with ranges from dozens of ohms to hundreds of ohms, while we're over here dealing with tiny fractions of one.) There is no single point where something goes from being "not a short" to "is a short." The question, then, becomes "how short is too short?" And that, of course, depends on which device you select and what cell(s) you choose to power it with.

We are dealing with low resolution vaping equipment. Not a Retroencabulator where 1 billionth of an ohm can be measured.

 

stols001

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Yeah I don't need my vaporizer to be as accurate. having trouble here.... with a metaphor... the hubble telescope? I don't know what's accurate exactly seems like it would have to be.

I'd like it to be more accurate than my son's aim at the toilet at say, age 5, but trust me that was NOT a high bar to raise further. Etc.

Anna
 
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