Ok seriously, I need CE3 bottom coil 101, HELP!!!!

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KalebK

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I am soooo frustrated,. So i decided to take my CE3 bottom coils out of time out tonight, they have been in a drawer since last week when they ...... me off. I don't know why they drip out the battery connection but they do. I tried 2 tonite, they still do it. So I took the plugs out, took the center posts out washed them, put the center post back in and the rubber seal (yes I did it the right way), turned it upside down, filled it and then put it on a napkin right side up and.... drip, drip, drip until all the freakin liquid is out of it. What the heck am I doing wrong?! Please help!!! These worked great right out of the box, then I decided to clean them, yes, all of them, I am regretting that now!
 
The outer tube should come off easily if it's a CE3. I've not used a Smokymizer, but I have used the newer CE3's for almost 3 months.
Place the CE3 on a batt and gently rock the tube off the atomizer.
If you enlarged the fill hole when removing the top seal, it may not be creating a vacuum and letting air get in the tube.
 
If you stuck the needle or another object in the fill hole to pry the seal out.
Prying on the hole may have enlarged/ripped the hole. If everything else is good, it's the only thing that I can see go wrong.
I would start by removing the outer & inner tube; clean everything; dry burn and re-assemble.
Ensure the coil isn't pushed down and that all the wicking material is lined up and sticking outside the hole.
I used a metal dental pick and gently lift & align the coil if it looks like it has been pushed down or twisted.
Install the inner tube; inspect that it's seated all the way then the outer tube.
Install the top seal and fill.
 
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I dry burn them if there is a lot of crud on the coil.
Wash in hot water; soak in PGA; rinse in hot water; paper towel dry or air dry; Dry burn; gently use tooth pick to knock off any caked on crude; blow off and reassemble.

Dry burn: Install just the atomizer on a batt. Press/hold the button for 3 to 5 seconds. Allow a few seconds for the coil to cool and any liquid in the wick to wick up to the coil. Repeat until the wick is white & crud has turned to ash. Remove ash by blowing and/or with a tooth pick gently.

It's ready when you don't hear any sizzling of fluids and the coil turns red quickly.
You should see a nice clean coil with white wicks. Practice makes perfect.
If you keep heating the coil once it's clean, it can blow/pop. It happens, just keep everything for parts ;)

I can get about 1-2 weeks out of a single CE3/CE2 that keeps performing.
 

KalebK

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Ok, I am so done with these phoenix's and they going in the garbage. They are just being way too inconsistant!!! I got a couple of them working great yesterday and today, once they get down to not much left in the carto, drip drip drip they go, I cant tell if its out the battery connector or the seal.... Filled one up a few minutes ago, kept it on the napkin to make sure it wasnt leaking, it wasn't. So I attached it to my PV, started vaping it and then it started leaking again!!! I just got the Ovale V8 from Discount Vapers and I love it and I don't want to get juice where I am not supposed to and risk breaking my beautiful V8!!! Hopefully the next box I get will be better. :(
 

Brobdingnagian

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I had several phoenix go the trip to leakville. I need to grab replacement wicks to resurrect them, I think. If there's any air in the syringe when they're being filled, they'll leak. The leaking while vaping has to be a sign of over-wicking, resulting in the cup flooding. The air holes are partially the problem, because if too much can be drawn in, perhaps a redesign is in order. Air should be able to be drawn in without liquid flowing out. I wonder if they could introduce a one-way valve into the design, but I don't know. It would certainly reduce leaks, however.

This sort of valve would open when air was drawn through the mouthpiece, then close when the draw stopped. This would probably make the phoenix perfect, and is mainly why I retired so many to add new wicks to. I figure it's worth a shot, though I still think air is pulling too much juice into the cup per-draw and that's why the leaking with vaping happens.

EDIT: I wonder, does this happen as often with the TCs? I would think not, because of the cup's proximity to the liquid when carried vertically, but if the design is similar but flipped, it's quite possible it suffers the same drawbacks regarding over-wicking and flooding when in any other position- horizontal, upside-down, ect.

After all, the BC's airflow is directly tied to how much juice the air feeds into the cup, already submerged in juice. TC's would rely more on the wick itself, and to a lesser extent, airflow.

EDIT2: It may be possible to block the bottom airholes...wait, would it be possible to use a drip shield around the phoenix with a 510-510 adapter, ensuring it was air-tight and raising the airflow to the top-holes of the drip shield? I'm going to try this.
 
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KalebK

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Apr 2, 2012
3,181
5,526
Spokane, WA
I had several phoenix go the trip to leakville. I need to grab replacement wicks to resurrect them, I think. If there's any air in the syringe when they're being filled, they'll leak. The leaking while vaping has to be a sign of over-wicking, resulting in the cup flooding. The air holes are partially the problem, because if too much can be drawn in, perhaps a redesign is in order. Air should be able to be drawn in without liquid flowing out. I wonder if they could introduce a one-way valve into the design, but I don't know. It would certainly reduce leaks, however.

This sort of valve would open when air was drawn through the mouthpiece, then close when the draw stopped. This would probably make the phoenix perfect, and is mainly why I retired so many to add new wicks to. I figure it's worth a shot, though I still think air is pulling too much juice into the cup per-draw and that's why the leaking with vaping happens.

EDIT: I wonder, does this happen as often with the TCs? I would think not, because of the cup's proximity to the liquid when carried vertically, but if the design is similar but flipped, it's quite possible it suffers the same drawbacks regarding over-wicking and flooding when in any other position- horizontal, upside-down, ect.

After all, the BC's airflow is directly tied to how much juice the air feeds into the cup, already submerged in juice. TC's would rely more on the wick itself, and to a lesser extent, airflow.

EDIT2: It may be possible to block the bottom airholes...wait, would it be possible to use a drip shield around the phoenix with a 510-510 adapter, ensuring it was air-tight and raising the airflow to the top-holes of the drip shield? I'm going to try this.

Thanks for the advice, they are in the drawer collecting dust, they are frustrating me beyond belief!!!
 
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