Old timer back for help on the new age of vaping....

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Eskie

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Crazy! Seems like they actually have stock on stuff that isn't very available elsewhere. Very nice!

FT is good if you're patient on the shipping. On authentic stuff, check out other US vendors as sometimes the savings isn't as much as you'd like especially given the delay for receiving it. Also, I avoid getting things like mods from them. If you have a warranty problem that's a long back and forth shipping delay.

They are great for odds and ends like replacement glass and stuff.
 

xan13x

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FT is good if you're patient on the shipping. On authentic stuff, check out other US vendors as sometimes the savings isn't as much as you'd like especially given the delay for receiving it. Also, I avoid getting things like mods from them. If you have a warranty problem that's a long back and forth shipping delay.

They are great for odds and ends like replacement glass and stuff.

Yea, I used to use them a lot for random stuff. It was a good place to get cheap mechs to tinker with. Years ago nothing on there was authentic though. Unfortunately, most of the vendors listed on Lost Vapes site are out of all or nearly all color combos of most of their mods. If i'm buying something fairly expensive, I want what I want.

I went ahead and ordered a Paranormal 250C from fasttech. I appreciate everyone's input!
 

tearose50

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There are many very good vaping devices these days.....and they don't have to be pricey. And, yes, the "world" of mods has switched to wattage, and I'm sure you will adjust quickly.

For a less expensive, but also very modern vape I really enjoy my Pico and Vaporesso Swag, small comfy box mods using 18650 batteries. Both will work fine with your existing "atty" and many of the other tanks of the times as 510 connection still rules for mods, just not the "pods".

I guess what I am trying to say, is it is OK now to buy something much more economical, especially for us "mouth to lung" vapers.

Provari's (of assorted names) are certainly in my rotation as well as various DNA devices....and I don't plan on PIF or selling a one!

If I wanted to pick the cream of the crop today -- I'd pick a Dani (out of EU) and they now have a new smaller box I can't help but drool over, too.

Edit to say OOPS -- the OP already ordered! I'll leave the post here for info.
 

Beamslider

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Yea, I used to use them a lot for random stuff. It was a good place to get cheap mechs to tinker with. Years ago nothing on there was authentic though. Unfortunately, most of the vendors listed on Lost Vapes site are out of all or nearly all color combos of most of their mods. If i'm buying something fairly expensive, I want what I want.

I went ahead and ordered a Paranormal 250C from Fasttech. I appreciate everyone's input!

Don't get batteries from them. Get batteries from a good wholesaler like Liion or IMR
 

englishmick

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Awesome thanks! I was actually looking at the 75W DNA as I can't imagine a scenario where my needs would get close to needing more power, and I like the color display.

I'm hoping to put off switching tanks for a little bit (at least until I work through all my kanger atomizers). Do you have any idea if the standard 510 on those types of devices will be ok on a modern DNA box mod? I guess a follow up question would be.... I got into kanger stuff originally due to being able to use the same atmoizers in my big "at home" devices with a larger tank, but also use them in a micro on a joyetech battery on the go. I know atomizers have gotten much larger with all the coils, but any idea if there's a comparably versatile atomizer/tank combo these days?

One comment on using your old tanks on the new mod. I have some old Pro Tanks, they work fine on more modern tanks I have including a Jac. But I've heard it's not a good idea to use that type of tank in TC mode. TC needs a really good steady electrical connection, and you don't really get that with the type of head the old Kanger tanks use. In those heads the coil legs are directly connected to the pin, and when you screw the tank in the pin can move and affect the connection. It's good enough to work in power mode but even slight variations can upset TC. For TC you need a tank where the coil legs are screwed down on the deck, with a solid connection to the pin.

This is what I've read, never actually tried it though so take it for what it's worth.
 
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xan13x

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Congrats on the paranormal. I have 5(?) Lost Vape DNA mods, and am happy with all of them. If you did order batteries from FT with it, see if you can cancel those out as shipping Li batteries into the US is a major pain and will tie up your order for weeks.

Naa, I've only ever used reputable sources for batteries as I definitely prefer the chemical bombs i stick near my face to be legit lol. Seems like RTD Vapor is a reputable place for batteries, and I assume i'll immediately need new batteries since everything I have is button top (yay Provari :p)?

Seems like the AW (obviously) 3000mah, LG HG2, and Sony VTC6 are all pretty universally regarded as good. Seems like I read some folks have had issues with the LGs being a tight fit in Lost Vape devices... might give the Sonys a whirl.
 
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KenD

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Haha, yea I only use IMR or Efest batteries.
I wouldn't recommend Efests. They're rewraps with exaggerated ratings, and you can never really know what's under the wrapper. But only authentic cells by Sony, Samsung, LG, or Panasonic/Sanyo, from a trusted vendor. And babe sure that the batteries are rated to handle the current that you're drawing from them.

Sent from my Thor E using Tapatalk
 

Eskie

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Looks like RTD is out of AWs and the VTC6s. Guess i'll try some LGs and Samsungs (30Q?).

The 30Q is a nice battery. 3,000 mAh, and a 20A CDR according to Mooch's testing. Even at 15A, two of them will serve you well in a paranormal at reasonable power. There's also the 25R which has been my default, 2,500 mAh and 20A which is constantly on Mooch's recommended battery list. LGs are highly respected as well.
 
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stols001

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I have that Samsung battery and it gets good runtime and nice headroom (I am not a high wattage vaper). I have a two battery 75 watt mod that is a DNA mod, (Steamtuner's mod) but it's not a C. LOVE the accuracy and the battery life but if I were to get any DNA mod it would be a Jac B or a Lost Vape mirage. Probably the 75 model because I get just fine battery life.

Efests are really not what you want nowadays, there are tons of better batteries out there, to be honest. Good luck, if you want the latest and greatest info you could check Mooch's blog he has a table and list of best suppliers. I'll link it (you may already know it) but welcome back!

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/blogs/mooch.256958/ The table (which I can never seem to post successfully) is just helpful as are the list of vendors etc. Baditude's blog is good for battery stuff as well.

I don't see you having a connection problem, honestly. Anything can happen, but worst case, it means you also buy a more up to date tank, but I'd be supremely surprised if it didn't work. Etc

Anna
 

xan13x

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I have that Samsung battery and it gets good runtime and nice headroom (I am not a high wattage vaper). I have a two battery 75 watt mod that is a DNA mod, (Steamtuner's mod) but it's not a C. LOVE the accuracy and the battery life but if I were to get any DNA mod it would be a Jac B or a Lost Vape mirage. Probably the 75 model because I get just fine battery life.

Efests are really not what you want nowadays, there are tons of better batteries out there, to be honest. Good luck, if you want the latest and greatest info you could check Mooch's blog he has a table and list of best suppliers. I'll link it (you may already know it) but welcome back!

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/blogs/mooch.256958/ The table (which I can never seem to post successfully) is just helpful as are the list of vendors etc. Baditude's blog is good for battery stuff as well.

I don't see you having a connection problem, honestly. Anything can happen, but worst case, it means you also buy a more up to date tank, but I'd be supremely surprised if it didn't work. Etc

Anna

Awesome, thanks! On the Efest front, they used to be a seemingly well regarded cheaper alternative to AW. Not that they were as good by any stretch, but they were cheap and didn't blow up. In any case, it looks like battery prices in general have come down, along with mods and such (dear god, I think I paid $250-300 for my Provari).

I actually just learned that there's sort of s sub ohm tank crowd vs a MTL crowd. Most of the modern stuff I've sampled from friends was in the sub ohm category and wasn't my cup of tea, which is part of why I was hesitant to join the modern age. I then learned that there are better modern MTL tanks, so I ordered a Innokin Zenith and Ares! I think I have an original Kayfun in a drawer somewhere along with all the crazy Greek stuff from back in the day lol.

I got a bit tired of the RTA thing years ago, but we shall see if the tech has come far enough to make it less fiddly. In any case, thanks for the blog! I'm trying to reorient myself with what's cool now, so such things are very helpful!
 

xan13x

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Pulled this back up to thank everyone for their input! My Paranormal 250C and Ares came in today!! Thoroughly enjoying it with some AVE Gorilla Juice :thumbs:
image1.jpeg
 

DaveP

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The 30Q is a nice battery. 3,000 mAh, and a 20A CDR according to Mooch's testing. Even at 15A, two of them will serve you well in a paranormal at reasonable power. There's also the 25R which has been my default, 2,500 mAh and 20A which is constantly on Mooch's recommended battery list. LGs are highly respected as well.

Mooch recently commented on the Sony VTC6 as a favorite 18650 for lower wattage vaping. It edged out the LG HG2 and the Samsung 30Q on voltage sag at the initial point of loading during his tests. If a battery drops too much voltage under initial load then that becomes its starting point for continued voltage drop and run time suffers.

This is the video. It's well worth watching. I have multiples of all three of those batteries and they are all good. This morning I ordered 4 Sony VTC6's based on his test results in the video. I've been rotating multiple sets of LG HG2, Sony VTC6, and Samsung 30Q's for a couple of years and they are beginning to show their age.

 
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xan13x

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Mooch recently commented on the Sony VTC6 as a favorite 18650 for lower wattage vaping. It edged out the LG HG2 and the Samsung 30Q on voltage sag at the initial point of loading during his tests. If a battery drops too much voltage under initial load then that becomes its starting point for continued voltage drop and run time suffers.

This is the video. It's well worth watching. I have multiples of all three of those batteries and they are all good. This morning I ordered 4 Sony VTC6's based on his test results in the video. I've been rotating multiple sets of LG HG2, Sony VTC6, and Samsung 30Q's for a couple of years and they are beginning to show their age.



Yea, I would have ordered the VTC6, but RTD was sold out. I'll grab some when I can find them in stock. Thanks!
 
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RayofLight62

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If money are not a concern, try the Dicodes Dani box v. 2. One cell, 80 W, designed and built in Germany.
It is a bit pricey at 200+ dollars, but IMO is the best professional mod available, it can last ten years easily. In use, it makes all other my mods feel like toys.

Alternatively, the Yihi Sx mini ML class makes a good second choice.

If you are looking for a VV mod, the Aspire Tiphoon, Aspire Puxos, Innokin Cool fire IV 40 W, still have a VV mode, while the rest of vape devices are VW only.

Best of luck in your quest.
 

PapawBrett

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As already mentioned. a lot of the old Provarinati have gone to JAC Series.
This old Reonaut recently asked about the new fangled age of Vaping :

Can You Explain Temp Control Vaping to an Old Fart ?

These younger folks ( and a few older ones) were quite helpful. I've tried several TC devices and have settled on the Eleaf Invoke with the Vandy Vape Berserker. Good little setup for a 12 Watt vaper like me. And total cost was under $100.
There is a lot of good stuff available these days. Good Luck.
 
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