Old Vaper in Trouble! Technology brain meltdown!

[IAmThatGuy]

Magical things I have learned in the last day's worth of cramming:

1) RCR-123A is the same size as CR-123A, and two of either is the same size as one 18650. Thus, if there's room for one 18650, there's room for two stacked RCR-123As, of which I have many yet waiting to be used.

2) I evidently really ought to use up these RCR-123A batts and not buy any more, since they're old technology and not as safe as they ought to be, especially when stacked. My green Tenergy LiFePO4 3.0v's are "safer chemistry" and unlikely to vent, but stacking them scares the ever-loving dickens out of a LOT of vapers. The threads are full of their strident recriminations against messing with stacked RCR-123a batts. Despite that, I've never overheated mine or shorted them (hard to short a well-designed mech switch, right?) and I always mark and charge in pairs (I learned that much back in '10). Other than dying at a prodigious rate (they lose 30-40% of their max charge after a few months of daily use), they've never done me wrong.

3) There's a whole Brave New World out there, and I plan to chase it down just as soon as I can throw this damn pack of Marlboros in the trash.

 

[Train2]

Fantastic - sounds like a great fit - may you get MANY years of use from it!

Thank you so much to everybody who has posted! I'm so glad to see the old e-cig forum is still full of the same sense of community it had back in 2010 when I started here! YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST!

Part of what I loved about the V3 was what a rock-solid piece of hardware it was. A solid machined stainless steel tube is virtually idiot proof, even for a clumsy lunk like me: I have broken off literally dozens of attys and cartos right at the threads by dropping the big guy on floors, roads, sidewalks, and in one memorable occasion, out of my car window! I used to sit on my pen-style 510s and break them in half on a weekly basis. My Dad used to say if he left me and an anvil in the desert and came back in a week, the anvil would somehow be broken. Well, my V3 is covered in marks, dents and scratches and yet not once in the last 3 years did it ever cease to run like a top until the screw went. I've been through 4 cell phones and 2 laptops in that period due to the same kind of treatment.

I'm heavily leaning towards the Legacy at the moment for the following reasons:
1) Same steel tube construction as my V3, thus likely to last another 3 years in my clumsy hands.
2) I'll be able to use my RCR-123As, of which I recently purchased a 12-pack (at some expense) and still have 8 that have never seen use.
3) Takes 510 threads, so I can use up my remaining stock of 510 dual coil Mega-length cartos (which run at the standard 2.5Ω). These have produced excellent results for years at 6v without trouble, although they require frequent dripping with a 70:30 PG/VG mix and a careful eye on never letting it run dry, even for a split second (or it'll burn the carto filler up in 3/4ths of a second).

Does this seem like a logical thought pattern? Or did I botch the logic train somewhere along the way?

Thanks again, from a Befuddled and Grateful Vaper

 

[Xobeloot]

Legacy is the way to go.

My last field exercise, my legacy fell out of my pocket, we built our medical tent on top of it, then once buried, got flooded by a monsoon that had us swimming.

By the time I realized where it could be, I dug up the flooring panels, wiped it down, and it fired.

My pops used to tell me the same thing about breaking the anvil, and yet, my legacy lives on!


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[bnrkwest]

I am not familiar with mech mods because I use a provari, it is also a steel tube that is indestructible but it has built in protection against shorts. I think there is an added protection you can put on a mech mod to help protect against shorts, is it a kick or something?? Maybe look into that. The stacked batts have a higher chance of causing a short just because they are stacked, so if you have some extra protection added you will be safer. bnrk

 

[Xobeloot]

Kick will give variable wattage and short protection, but will limit battery size. If he gets the 18350 tube, he will need the extension tube for the kick. If he gets the 18650 tube, he can use 18490/18500 +kick

If he gets the 2cents short protection fuse, it can be used with the tube's standard battery size only if the internal positive post is shaved down ~1/16"

I'd suggest the OP goes with the single IMR battery setup.

The kick is a take it or leave it thing.

If the OP is using standard carto's, the need for a fuse is not really there.

The fuse is great for rebuildables on stacked battery tubes, but a competent coil on a single battery is pretty safe.

There is always a risk, these are only my opinions.


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[Racehorse]

I'm heavily leaning towards the Legacy at the moment

Glad you decided! I dug up those Legacy threads/posts because it did seem like the closest thing to what you're used to.

Since you loved what you had been using, there was really no need to talk you into some other technology. I only suggest "different stuff" to people when they are unhappy with what they are presently using.

Sounds like you're on your way again!

 

[tearose50]

Another thing that you may not be aware of is that carto's and atty's and the clearomizer's are all sold now in a stated ohm resistance. I imagine what you now have (which are still quite good, btw) are "regular" resistance which would be in the 2.8 - 3.0 ohm range.

As you can see by the examples below, adjusting the volts to the ohms of the atomizing device can produce the same powerful vape.

3.7 volts , 3 ohms = 4.56 watts
6 volts, 3 ohms = 12 watts
5 volts, 2 ohms = 12.5 watts
4.3 volts. 1.5 ohms = 12.32 watts

Lower ohm atomizing devices became very popular due to people wanting a warmer vape. It's also a big reason why variable voltage devices became so widespread and maintain their popularity. They are easy to adjust to one's preferences, once one learns what power they want to produce (using the ohms calculator),

We now also have more devices that adjust by Wattage. With a VW setting one sets the watts they usually prefer (in this example 12 watts) and the device will gauge the ohms of your atomizing device and produce 12 watts.

Hoping this helps as you continue your adventures and further your studies.