Ordered supplies to rebuild my protank 2 heads and have some questions

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Sara0316

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I ordered 32 gauge kanthal, 2mm silica wick and 1mm silica for a flavor wick. I've watched a bunch of YouTube videos but they all differ so much. Everyone does a different amount of wraps varying from 12 to one that did 3 wraps on one side of the wick with a small gap then 3 more wraps.
Should the coil wraps touch? I've seen both.Can you give me details on how you do it or post a link? Thanks!
 
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steved5600

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You got the wrong wire. You need NR-R-NR wire. Wire that has leads on it that are silver no/low resistance wire. Otherwise you will burn the rubber insulator. You can get it at Discount vapors or at fasttech. Comes in bundles of 50-100 in resistances from 1.5 - 4.0 ohms. On the wick the best I have used, and i have been rebuilding them for a long time is 2-2.5mm ekowool but 2-2.5 regular silica will work. I use one wick and some pieces of one on top as a floater/flavor wick which also makes sure you don't have any leaks.
 
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LeftCatcher

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There nothing wrong with using standard kanthal. I used to recoil PTs. That's what come in the standard heads. Thinner granted but still kanthal.

Sent from a deep and dark corner of ModMaker HQ!

i agree, i rebuild my kanger PT2's all the time, with just kanthal. the trick to localizing the heat issue is how tight your coil is. i wrap mine around a 20 gauge flavor needle and then push it tight together with a set of tweezers and heat treats just the coil, and not the leads. if you do this you'll find that when you fire it, the leads stay quite cool (enough.)
now i'm not saying that the NR leads don't work, in fact they work well, but it's just not needed.
also i clean my coils after heat treating them, most ppl i see on youtube etc. say to leave the oxidized coating on the coil, but i find that it will rust and ruin the flavor of my liquid within 3-4 days. by cleaning it, i ensure that it does not rust for 8-10 days, preserving flavor and the clarity of my liquid, as well as keeping the part per million of metal oxide gasses to a minimum.
in fact that is why i switch to 80 series NiChrome filament, all thought is is made of chromium and nickel (which release for toxic fumes than other metals) because it is rust resistant it never even come close to releasing the same volume of metal oxide fumes that kanthal does.

info: kanthal = 20% chromium 40% aluminum 40% iron
aluminum and iron release oxide fumes that are at the most gonna give you an irritation (negligible)
chromium releases oxide fumes that are carcinogenic (known to cause cancer.)
now before you get all worried, it's parts per million (ppm) in a vaporizer so it's low, your toothpaste i hope you brush your teeth with on the daily has more carcinogens than what i'm talking about.
chromium is a rust resistant metal while aluminum and iron rust very easily.
with the existence of the aluminum and iron oxides, along with the heat generated from the coil, this will accelerate the oxidation of the chromium, causing more chromium oxide fumes to be generated (more carcinogens)

60 series nickel chromium = 20% chromium 60%nickel 20%aluminum
more toxic metals, but more resistant to oxidation. less fumes and the coil will last longer with out changing the flavor.
note: the aluminum will still accelerate the oxidation process, yet not as quickly as kanthal.

80 series nickel chromium = 80% nickel 20% chromium
while being comprised of 100% carcinogenic metals, they are also extremely resistant to oxidation, in fact they use these metals to make things like stainless steel, and in fact stainless is less resistant to oxidation as this filament as it includes iron (one of the most easily oxidizing metals.)
less oxidation means less toxic metal oxides, so in effect a more healthier and longer lasting coil, with a cleaner burn and taste ;)

note: if your liquid starts to turn a deeper rust color in your tank, and it starts to taste a little like you have metal in your mouth, or it just gets real harsh. dump the liquid, and change your coil.
(most of my liquids are clear so this makes it easier, but i make this liquid with clippings of a cuban cigar that it's hard to tell by sight, but you will still be able to taste it. unless you like sea food, i swear those people cant taste most metals except the obvious like a penny, brass, and extremely cheap silverware that has all but disappeared since the mass production of plasticware.)

but i digress, sorry i must still be in thesis mode ;P

(sorry i tried to add link for reference but i'm not awesome enough yet)

ccohs. ca /oshanswers /safety_haz /welding /fumes. html

note: the amounts of nickel oxides in a PV built with NiChrome filament are negligible and vastly within acceptable tolerances of exposure according to CCOHS and OSHA

also, before someone says something stupid, there is no chance of "metal fever" from a PV, especially if you use clean well maintained quality filaments. (coils)
 
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