Origen Genesis v2 Clone

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roxynoodle

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I got an Origenny v2 clone last night from a friend. Its the most recent one from FC. I do have a couple of questions. I'm not an experienced genny builder. I had a Sat22 clone, but found the airflow too tight and gave it to someone else.

Is the fill plug only used for cotton builds? Do I leave it out for mesh?
 
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TrollDragon

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I got an Origenny v2 clone last night from a friend. Its the most recent one from FC. I do have a couple of questions. I'm not an experienced genny builder. I had a Sat22 clone, but found the airflow too tight and gave it to someone else.

Is the fill plug only used for cotton builds? Do I leave it out for mesh?
Hi Roxy,
I was going to answer you in the Mod Womper thread but life got in the way at the time.

The two big holes are for cotton, the two small holes with the support half way down are for mesh. There are two deck reducers, one for a dual coil build and one for a single. The knurled fill hole plug can be taken out or left in, your choice depending if you are getting dry hits or not. It is much easier to build on if you install the reducer when you are finished. Just check screw and wick hole placements first as there is nothing worse then using the wrong deck screw hole on a single build and then the reducer will not go on. :facepalm:

I didn't have a whole lot of success with cotton builds, I had to leave the fill hole screw out so the tank would not get vacuum locked and my OCD doesn't like things missing from a device... ;)

I find with a cotton build that if you make a small ID coil 2.5mm or less and use the big deck holes, it leaves room around the wick for air to enter and no wicking issue. You can also trim half of the wick off just below the coil before it enters the deck. This way there is a full wick (Rayon) in the coil with a half thickness tail running down into the tank. I tried this and it did work allowing me to leave the fill screw in. I do sometimes take the Origenny with me during the day and like it to be as sealed as possible.

I have built single and dual mesh builds on it which provide amazing flavor and that is where the Origenny really shines.

If you haven't, watch some of jong yeol Kim's video's. The guy is incredible at what he can wick and make work.

Mesh in mesh. (This is an excellent Build.)


Cotton Build.


I was also told that with a cotton build you should leave some extra slack in the bottom. This way you can pull up some fresh wick when required. I found it such a PiTA to get the plastic tank off and on to wick it with Rayon or KGD. Unscrewing that little ring can require a less is more type of approach where you need turn it without squeezing it. It will come off easily that way. I have seen pictures of people taking pliers to Authentics trying to get the ring off.

This is my favorite build on the Origenny now and will live there a long time.
A 2.5mm Hollow Ekowool with a 15mm mesh straw core, wrapped in 0.5mm Ribbon Kanthal @ 1.4‎Ω. 20W will allow you to vape this build till the tank is dry without tilting, except for at the end when you are getting the last bit out.

Run the Ekowool down into the tank right to the bottom, sorry for the dirty coil but this has been in there a while, and a quick dry burn and rinse makes it good to go again.
Origenny Build.jpg


If you have not used Ekowool before, heating it red with the butane torch will temporarily stiffen it so it is easier to work with without fraying. If you gently push on the end of the heated Ekowool, it will make the core expand, insert your mesh wick and pull the Ekowool back tight again leaving some overhang that can be trimmed. Torch the other end and cut it off so it will touch the tank bottom. Wrap your coil before of after you install the wick it is your choice.

I have the FC version as well and the 510 threads are aluminum so mine are starting to wear down. Aluminum and Stainless Steel don`t quite mesh well when it comes to threads. I installed one of these permanently on my Origenny to save the remaining threads.

It looks like they have fixed a lot of these issues in the MK II version.
Hope you like the Origenny it is an amazing atty!
:toast:
 
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Arthur

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Will my experience with this v2 clone give me a good idea if I would like the mkll authentic? Is the design similar enough?
I can't really answer that. My clone was terrible, but the authentic is pretty great. It's not entirely leak proof but you'd have to try pretty hard to get it to actually leak. The build its way easier on the mk2.
 

EddieAdams

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You know I figured the wider holes were for cotton but, still built mine with mesh on the wider hole. Thing is vaping like a dream.
The Tobeco mrk2 doesn't have the supports halfway for mesh.

It's by far and away my favorite tank.
I've flipped the glass and hopefully that solves the leaking I had.
 
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TrollDragon

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Ok, up and running and I really like it :)

I did a 3mm coil, but cut my rayon wick tail in half and only put half in the tank so I wouldn't vaporlock.
Excellent!
The flavor is awesome on the Origen's. The Dripper V2 was my first RDA followed right away by the Genny. It's unfortunate that FT doesn't have the 1:1 Dripper version any more, it's a really solid atty. The other ones work just as good but the 1:1 had almost twice the weight of stainless steel in it. :)
 
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Vaslovik

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I'm still loving my Origenny, though I have found it will leak if you fill it too far. It looks like you can fill it up past the glass up to the deck, and you can, but it's gonna leak if you do. I built mine with 26 kanthal on 400 mesh for .7 ohm using the Petar Q method, and it vapes like nothing else I have. Put that thing on a Poldiac and.... there are no words...

I have the Tobeco clone.
 
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rolf

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Hi Roxy,
I was going to answer you in the Mod Womper thread but life got in the way at the time.

The two big holes are for cotton, the two small holes with the support half way down are for mesh. There are two deck reducers, one for a dual coil build and one for a single. The knurled fill hole plug can be taken out or left in, your choice depending if you are getting dry hits or not. It is much easier to build on if you install the reducer when you are finished. Just check screw and wick hole placements first as there is nothing worse then using the wrong deck screw hole on a single build and then the reducer will not go on. :facepalm:

I didn't have a whole lot of success with cotton builds, I had to leave the fill hole screw out so the tank would not get vacuum locked and my OCD doesn't like things missing from a device... ;)

I find with a cotton build that if you make a small ID coil 2.5mm or less and use the big deck holes, it leaves room around the wick for air to enter and no wicking issue. You can also trim half of the wick off just below the coil before it enters the deck. This way there is a full wick (Rayon) in the coil with a half thickness tail running down into the tank. I tried this and it did work allowing me to leave the fill screw in. I do sometimes take the Origenny with me during the day and like it to be as sealed as possible.

I have built single and dual mesh builds on it which provide amazing flavor and that is where the Origenny really shines.

If you haven't, watch some of jong yeol Kim's video's. The guy is incredible at what he can wick and make work.

Mesh in mesh. (This is an excellent Build.)


Cotton Build.


I was also told that with a cotton build you should leave some extra slack in the bottom. This way you can pull up some fresh wick when required. I found it such a PiTA to get the plastic tank off and on to wick it with Rayon or KGD. Unscrewing that little ring can require a less is more type of approach where you need turn it without squeezing it. It will come off easily that way. I have seen pictures of people taking pliers to Authentics trying to get the ring off.

This is my favorite build on the Origenny now and will live there a long time.
A 2.5mm Hollow Ekowool with a 15mm mesh straw core, wrapped in 0.5mm Ribbon Kanthal @ 1.4‎Ω. 20W will allow you to vape this build till the tank is dry without tilting, except for at the end when you are getting the last bit out.

Run the Ekowool down into the tank right to the bottom, sorry for the dirty coil but this has been in there a while, and a quick dry burn and rinse makes it good to go again.
View attachment 474697

If you have not used Ekowool before, heating it red with the butane torch will temporarily stiffen it so it is easier to work with without fraying. If you gently push on the end of the heated Ekowool, it will make the core expand, insert your mesh wick and pull the Ekowool back tight again leaving some overhang that can be trimmed. Torch the other end and cut it off so it will touch the tank bottom. Wrap your coil before of after you install the wick it is your choice.

I have the FC version as well and the 510 threads are aluminum so mine are starting to wear down. Aluminum and Stainless Steel don`t quite mesh well when it comes to threads. I installed one of these permanently on my Origenny to save the remaining threads.

It looks like they have fixed a lot of these issues in the MK II version.
Hope you like the Origenny it is an amazing atty!
:toast:

hi trolldragon
thank you for putting the link to the vids in here lerned a lot from it.
I got the tobeco and could not get the tank off !! was going to leave a cotton tail in the tank so I can pull some fresh section up when the time comes .but wanted to try it , so just twisted the cotton end to drop into the tank and left the top of the cotton to fill the coil.
I am in love !! ordered the mark 2 version ..ss..from ft. used mesh buils a long time ago but not oxidizing it , just very litely covered with cotton never had a short that way. its time to play with different builds now
absolutely love it
 
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TrollDragon

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I have a feeling I'll have it dual coiled within the next few days for fun.

Then I'll try mesh.

Who is Petar Q? Do you mean Petar K, or is this a different person?
I hope you'll like the mesh build, it's a bit of work to get going, but so much better than cotton or Rayon IMHO.
 
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