P16 shorting or misfiring

Status
Not open for further replies.

GaryS

Full Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 20, 2009
69
2
I recently bought a P16 with 2 Ultrafire P16430 batteries. It worked wonderfully for the first few days. However, this evening it suddenly stopped working. When I press the button, it fires for a very brief period of time (1 second or less) and then stops. The same issue is present with both batteries and atomizers that work fine on other devices. The P16 is practically new. I received it last week. So it seems unlikely that it is a battery issue. If the protection circuit blows on 16340s, do they stop working completely, or could the fire shortly like mine appear to be doing? I've taken the unit apart and checked the O-ring and spring. Everything looks fine.
Any suggestions?

Thanks
Gary
 

GaryS

Full Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 20, 2009
69
2
***Probably solved***
The hh.357 that I that was working intermittently on the p16 just short-circuited an ego battery... It worked fine for a while, but then the battery wouldn't stop firing. Now any atomizer I connect to the Ego fires immediately, before I even press the button. Looks like I may have killed many batteries with a dud atty.
Is it a bad idea to run LR atties on 750mah AW 16340s?
 

forcedfuel50

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
***Probably solved***
The hh.357 that I that was working intermittently on the p16 just short-circuited an ego battery... It worked fine for a while, but then the battery wouldn't stop firing. Now any atomizer I connect to the Ego fires immediately, before I even press the button. Looks like I may have killed many batteries with a dud atty.
Is it a bad idea to run LR atties on 750mah AW 16340s?

Good morning GaryS! Welcome to the Precise family! I've run LR's on 750mah AW's. You may or may not notice reduced life on your battery. On your atomizer, if you get a short, check out the center pin on your atomizer to see if it has been pushed way up in there. That will cause them to short out.
 

GaryS

Full Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 20, 2009
69
2
I also tried holding the negative node to the stainless button on the bottom and the positive to the copper atomizer contact. When I depress the button, I get a reading of 4.08, which is the same as if I hold the negative contact to the battery directly while the positive to the copper atomizer contact. Above I said I got 4.12 through the copper contact, but I was wrong. It drops a bit from the direct battery test, which I assume it should because of the resistance through the top connector.

Best,
G
 

dspin

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 2, 2010
7,513
8,328
USA
Thanks dspin. So, does this look like both of the AW 750mah ICR123s are shorting out? They are only a few days old. I have two high drain 550mah AW16340s on order. I assume I can use the same UltraFire charger for them?


Here's a link re: batts, mah and attys. Better than my typing it again. Keep reading as it goes on w/other batts. Also including link for pic fo bad and proper center posts.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-issues/135545-whats-diff-performance-18650-2900mah-vs-18650-1600mah-high-drain.html

Check out pic of bad atty center post

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/altsmoke/141595-new-hot-spring-ruined.html


And another good thread

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/joye-510/65055-battery-voltages-surprise.html
 
Last edited by a moderator:

forcedfuel50

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Today while I was testing the voltage of a 16340 in my P16, I noticed that I would get an occasional spark which would light off from the threads of the P16. If I touched the threads while testing the brass top contact with the button taken off, a short series of sparks were created.

Yes, electricity will jump gaps, or if shorted cause sparks too. Not sure what you mean by with the button taken off though?
 
Last edited:

Tripster

Super Member
ECF Veteran
May 21, 2011
741
559
Is there a way to do a load test (testing the voltage through an atomizer and battery at the same time) using a multimeter? It will still be a few days until I receive the new 16340 batteries. Meanwhile, I'd like to try and figure out what, if anything, is happening with the batteries I have?

You can get a 510 Voltage Meter...pm on the way.
 

forcedfuel50

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Is there a way to do a load test (testing the voltage through an atomizer and battery at the same time) using a multimeter? It will still be a few days until I receive the new 16340 batteries. Meanwhile, I'd like to try and figure out what, if anything, is happening with the batteries I have?

Sure, you can make a dyi rig by pulling apart an atomizer (carefully so the wires don't break) and hooking up leads to them. Loaded voltage will be around 3.7 volt on a fully charged battery. I made a rig that screwed in between the atomizer and a mod and allowed you to clamp on alligator clips, see my video.

Truthfully though, it's a lot of work to go through. If you just voltage test your batteries and they read in the neighborhood of 4.2 volts when coming off the charger, you can be 99.99 percent sure they are good. It is possible for a battery to still read good voltage and still be bad, but it's very rare.

David
 

forcedfuel50

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
UPDATE: I just reread your original post. You said you picked up the unit used and are using ultrafires. By all means, replace those ultrafires with AW's asap! I do not recommend ultrafires and they do not fit properly. Also, since the unit was used, feel free to send it to me and i can check it over and make sure everything is brought back to OEM specs and configuration, free of charge. Send to:

Super T
Box 331
Sauk Rapids, MN 56379
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread