P4U/Green Leaf IPV2 50W - Product Spec, Performance, Usage & Issues Thread

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Kevin King

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Kiwi, a few pages back in your pictures of your ipv v2,
you mention the scratches on your touch sensor and screen. but claim the film is off. i can SEE the film just by looking at your pictures. i have just discovered this on my own IPV. i literally thought my side screen had a legitimate crack in it.... nope. the film was on the screen, side panel, and touch sensor. its just very flush with the sides and hard to see. i promise you those "scratches" will go away. ;)
 

suspectK

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Yeah, I've been breaking the rules...what the hell is going on with that? What's the spec on the charger? Does it continue to charge the battery when the battery pushes a load?

(P4U)Tell us what is going on with that... unless you have a video. But..I remember you saying battery globe in an early video(weeks later it was pointed out to me to mean battery cradle). Tell us if it is a problem... we haven't had problems.. fix it, if it is a problem.. and you should give all of the present owners of ipv's the S(ealed) version, and the option to upgrade to the IPV3.. the is kinda bs.

1:1+ cloned your product before it was in most of our hands..pft.
Interestingly. I've been using my IPV as a pass through (yes... It is NOT recommended)... BUT!

The voltage sag reduces by a hell lot when doing so :p


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And yeah..if you didn't take your film off..don't, live with the "scratches."

Edit-at least with the touch sensor..
 

abrb701

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GAH. My IPV randomly decided my 0.9 ohm coil was 3.2 ohms, and prompt pumped 8.5V into it. MEGA burnt hit




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Ya that's happened to me a few times, in my experience it is usually the atty came loose a little bit or the screws need to be tightened, the IPV2 seems to be very sensitive to that. Even if my atty is just a little loose the resistance jumps all over, that never happened on my other mods.

Not saying thats what's happening to you, I know some people have had issues with the ohms readings even when everything is perfect.
 

TheKiwi

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Solid atomizer?

Russian 91. Not sure why.

Also I think I've figured out why pass through is a horrendous idea. I'm gonna do a bit more testing and update.

ETA: in case you're impatient, the hypothesis is that:

In the DNA30, it regulates the amount of power drawn from the USB at a safe level (I'll go find out the exact specs tmr), regardless of the load you're drawing on.

In the sx330, I think it doesn't have that layer of regulation, or at least it doesn't work well.

Well my voltage surged to 8.5V on a 0.9 ohm build, my laptop (which my IPV was connected to) immediately disabled that USB port and notified me that the device was drawing excessive current.

So. Yeap. Random errors like that could possibly fry your USB cards, especially if it doesn't have the auto shut off feature.

Gonna try using my IPV at different wattages on a 0.6 ohm load and push up to 100 watts. If the same warning occurs then well. That's why it's not a good idea to pass through.


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TheKiwi

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Ya that's happened to me a few times, in my experience it is usually the atty came loose a little bit or the screws need to be tightened, the IPV2 seems to be very sensitive to that. Even if my atty is just a little loose the resistance jumps all over, that never happened on my other mods.

Not saying thats what's happening to you, I know some people have had issues with the ohms readings even when everything is perfect.

Yeah it's probably that. I was trying to make my r91 sit dead flush, and probably lowered the 510 a tad too much. Lol what a noob.


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abrb701

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So my IPV2 just reset in between hits, and yihi sx330 and some other numbers I can't remember started flashing. It then switched to showing IPV2 on screen every time I tried to hit it. The battery sag is going all the way to the bottom when I try to hit it(vtc4) after that stopped, hopefully that was it.

edit: now its showing low res, then jumping to random high ohms. I slightly tightened the screws on my magma and its back to normal. Its weird how sensitive it is to that.

Double edit: Never mind, all is well. The drip tip that came with the asmodus extends too far down, it was touching the screws on the magma. I guess it just shorted it really badly and reset. Explains why it stopped tweaking out when I took the top cap off.

That's why I have a regulated, can you imagine how bad that would have been on a mech? The drip tip would have gotten all the current. Ridiculous.
 
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cynik

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0b15cdbb8e9ff3cb331a192980c81b7d.jpg


After removing j-wrap....keep in mind, it has taken some falls..but still. Chinese quality through and through. W007!
Chinese quality, indeed. I don't think I'll be buying anymore P4Y products in the near future. Never mind the poor finish and fit, the firmware bugs piss me off more. You simply can't have a VW device that has its resistance readings jumping all over the place.
 

BigLungs

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Chinese quality, indeed. I don't think I'll be buying anymore P4Y products in the near future. Never mind the poor finish and fit, the firmware bugs piss me off more. You simply can't have a VW device that has its resistance readings jumping all over the place.

The resistance readings are dead on every time on mine, unless the atty is barely making contact with the 510 pin or your screws come loose holding the coil in place. I can force the resistance to jump by unscrewing my atty just a tad to where it barely contacts, but that isn't a fault with the device it's just how electricity behaves. If it has to jump a gap because of poor contact it will cause a point of resistance.

There isn't one fault with the performance of the device on mine and many others. I wouldn't be surprised if most/all of the reports of resistance jumps are caused by the reasons I described. If someone was putting an atty on that sits perfectly flush it will take getting the 510 pin adjusted exactly right to solve this problem.
 

cynik

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The resistance readings are dead on every time on mine, unless the atty is barely making contact with the 510 pin or your screws come loose holding the coil in place. I can force the resistance to jump by unscrewing my atty just a tad to where it barely contacts, but that isn't a fault with the device it's just how electricity behaves. If it has to jump a gap because of poor contact it will cause a point of resistance.

There isn't one fault with the performance of the device on mine and many others. I wouldn't be surprised if most/all of the reports of resistance jumps are caused by the reasons I described. If someone was putting an atty on that sits perfectly flush it will take getting the 510 pin adjusted exactly right to solve this problem.
I'm aware that there are perfect units as far as performance goes, and I'm also aware of how resistances can change as the atty is being used. But mine jumps from .8 to 1.2 to 1 to 1.1 and then back to .8 in one example. This happens on all my RDAs. The same RDAs are fine on my other regulated mods.
 

suspectK

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I'm talking to elev8vape about my touch sensor, but the only time my resistance bounces around is with atty's..

But the 510 connection sucks on the ipv, so it's easy for the best of us to run into this problem, at least when switching atty's.

But I'll put this ohm reader to the test.. probably at work Friday. I'll get some measurements with an atty, that I know is solid. I found an old load bank, and it's been calibrated..so it won't be a pain changing resistances.:)

Edit- make sure the atty is on tight, if it wiggling loose when it's flush, back out the 510pin a little.. a 0.5mm gap is better than picking up your ipv to send 8volts to a loose atty with a 0.4ohm build.
 
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nopoison

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I'm talking to elev8vape about my touch sensor, but the only time my resistance bounces around is with atty's..

But the 510 connection sucks on the ipv, so it's easy for the best of us to run into this problem, at least when switching atty's.

But I'll put this ohm reader to the test.. probably at work Friday. I'll get some measurements with an atty, that I know is solid. I found an old load bank, and it's been calibrated..so it won't be a pain changing resistances.:)

Yeah my 510 connection sucks as it wont stay up high enough and keeps screwing in too far when I screw the atty on. I havent noticed any ohm reading fluctuation though. But mine has gone dead a couple times where it wouldnt turn back on with 5 clicks until trying multiple times. I'm so glad Elev8 is standing behind the 1 yr warranty! I have a funny feeling mine will be going back before long. :(
 

Keirster

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Well guys, based on my post yesterday and all the posts I have read today...I must have a bad unit as well. My ohm readings jump with a very snug atty and the voltage drop with my VCT5's are not acceptable to me. Even if fully charged, the sag is almost half!

Luckily ( and non luckily I suppose as I paid a lot more ) I bought mine at a B&M that has a 30 day return policy ( No questions asked ). Gonna take mine back tonight and swap out for a Authentic Flagship copper mech mod of the same price and get one of the newer units that takes 2 batts in a few months.

Think I will wait to see how they are reviewed for a bit before taking the plunge next time.

Glad some of you got good ones, too bad cause I like the device, but just hate the 1 battery, sag, and wrong ohm readings.

Good luck everyone...see you in another high wattage box mod post down the road.
 
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