P4U/Green Leaf IPV2 50W - Product Spec, Performance, Usage & Issues Thread

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suspectK

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Well guys, based on my post yesterday and all the posts I have read today...I must have a bad unit as well. My ohm readings jump with a very snug atty and the voltage drop with my VCT5's are not acceptable to me. Even if fully charged, the sag is almost half!

Luckily ( and non luckily I suppose as I paid a lot more ) I bought mine at a B&M that has a 30 day return policy ( No questions asked ). Gonna take mine back tonight and swap out for a Authentic Flagship copper mech mod of the same price and get one of the newer units that takes 2 batts in a few months.

Think I will wait to see how they are reviewed for a bit before taking the plunge next time.

Glad some of you got good ones, too bad cause I like the device, but just hate the 1 battery, sag, and wrong ohm readings.

Good luck everyone...see you in another high wattage box mod post down the road.
Have you tried a cartomizer or something? What kind of atomizers have you tried? Sorry, if you've said already, but I'm subscribed, and on phone.. don't remember you saying.

vThis post is the most common(510pin to atty contact resistance- but crappy clone post threads/how they catch wires are another big possibility...not ruling out a faulty ohm reader..
Yeah my 510 connection sucks as it wont stay up high enough and keeps screwing in too far when I screw the atty on. I havent noticed any ohm reading fluctuation though. But mine has gone dead a couple times where it wouldnt turn back on with 5 clicks until trying multiple times. I'm so glad Elev8 is standing behind the 1 yr warranty! I have a funny feeling mine will be going back before long. :(
 

Keirster

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Have you tried a cartomizer or something? What kind of atomizers have you tried? Sorry, if you've said already, but I'm subscribed, and on phone.. don't remember you saying.

vThis post is the most common(510pin to atty contact resistance- but crappy clone post threads/how they catch wires are another big possibility...not ruling out a faulty ohm reader..

Hey Suspect, I like the device. My main thing is the one battery, I don't like that it lasts like 3-4 hours when I vape heavy. I really want to wait until the 2 batt units come out and get one then. I am sure there will be a chip winner, then I will get that one.
The Flagship Mech is awesome if you wanna check it out. That is what I am sPpi g out for. My one authentic mech.


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suspectK

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I just got my kiss qe estia combo..bought a real 4nine male while waiting for it to be made..buying the other two to make a complete set.. they're not being produced anymore, I've been told. They're stamping the last switches of what they have, and that's it... but they're coming out with solid tubes soon..

Edit-killed in sleep if I buy another mod.. especially mech..I have a few.
 

herb

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Hey Suspect, I like the device. My main thing is the one battery, I don't like that it lasts like 3-4 hours when I vape heavy. I really want to wait until the 2 batt units come out and get one then. I am sure there will be a chip winner, then I will get that one.
The Flagship Mech is awesome if you wanna check it out. That is what I am sPpi g out for. My one authentic mech.


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Hey, you said you absolutely LOVED the device and prefer vaping regulated to mechanical any day lol. How did it go from great to having all these issues , i hope mine doesn't do that.

Anyways what do i win for calling it so accurately lol , before you bought it i said the one battery deal is probably going to be a big issue since you like vaping high wattage but you had your good reasoning and went with it anyway .

C, mon i got to win something , kidding , send me a pm with your address i am going to send you something that i ordered that i think you will like.
 

CaCHooKa Man

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Welp. Gonna send my ipv2 in to elev8. Twice today my 0.9 or 0.8 ohm builds spiked up to 3.5 or 4.2 ohms on two different atties. Connections are snug as hell too


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Mine just did the same thing right now but it was because the 510 connector on my Kayfun was loose and not fully making contact with the pin in the iPV
 
Question for those of you who are experiencing inconsistent resistance readings and it's an issue with the mod and not the coil or atty: what ohms and wattages are you vaping at when you experience the spikes in resistance? Maybe there's a common pattern somewhere that the SX330 or the IPV2 doesn't like to be used at certain resistances / wattages?
 

BigLungs

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Mine just did the same thing right now but it was because the 510 connector on my Kayfun was loose and not fully making contact with the pin in the iPV

Yep, I am sure that accounts for 99% of the people saying it is misreading their resistance. If you have something flush mounted and have the 510 screw set perfectly, just simply loosening the atty once and tightening it back down can cause the 510 screw to screw further in. This will eventually result in either the atty making no contact at all, or it will be making intermittent contact which will cause the resistance to jump all over the place. This is not a problem with the board but a problem with having a top adjusted 510 screw. A sprung loaded connection would have been much better.

The best way to remedy this is to not try and flush mount and instead leave a gap.

Edit: This is not to say that there couldn't be a few faulty boards out there, but the majority are probably issues with how 510 screw is set up

Question for those of you who are experiencing inconsistent resistance readings and it's an issue with the mod and not the coil or atty: what ohms and wattages are you vaping at when you experience the spikes in resistance? Maybe there's a common pattern somewhere that the SX330 or the IPV2 doesn't like to be used at certain resistances / wattages?
 
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BigLungs

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But thats not gonna work with such a loose fitting screw that screws in with the atty you are attaching. :unsure:Terrible design.
The screw only goes down about a quarter turn each time you screw the atty on. Different thread pitches.

I could argue that ALL top adjustable 510's are a terrible design. It's stupid to have to take the atty off to make adjustments. It is what it is though. As I said a sprung loaded connection would have been much better.

My point was that it isn't the device misreading resistances, but instead the resistance IS actually jumping because of poor connection.

I don't have this problem because all of my atties, including kayfuns, leave a ever so slight gap even with the 510 screw tightened all the way down. So I don't need to adjust my 510 screw unless I wanted an even larger gap.

The issues I described only apply to people with atties that sit completely flush on the device to the point that they have to loosen the 510 screw to make contact. That screw will tighten some every time you screw an atty on, so those people have to remember to loosen the 510 screw about a quarter turn every time before they screw the atty down.
 
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BigLungs

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As I said "The issues I described only apply to people with atties that sit completely flush on the device to the point that they have to loosen the 510 screw to make contact. That screw will tighten some every time you screw an atty on, so those people have to remember to loosen the 510 screw about a quarter turn every time before they screw the atty down."

I also said "This is not to say that there couldn't be a few faulty boards out there"
 

atroph

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Wonder if it has to do with the solder joints on the inside of the box? I don't have mine yet so I can't comment on the internal construction, but I have peered inside other China boxes and sometimes the solder job looks like Stevie Wonder did it. I believe the box is also the ground connection so is it possible that the lug needs to be tightened up on the inside?
 

nopoison

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Wonder if it has to do with the solder joints on the inside of the box? I don't have mine yet so I can't comment on the internal construction, but I have peered inside other China boxes and sometimes the solder job looks like Stevie Wonder did it. I believe the box is also the ground connection so is it possible that the lug needs to be tightened up on the inside?
I think it may be bad solder joints on the 510. Ive seen where somebody's 510 came out our pushed in. The actual part that the screw goes into.
 

atroph

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I have been following this thread and am holding out for the ipv3 or Sigelei 100 watt mainly for the dual batteries. Was leaning towards the ipv3, but now with the issues popping up, I'm not so sure. I know every new mod will have quirks, but my Sigelei legend has worked as advertised since day one.

There is a thread in to co-op section that is getting a Sigelei 100W group buy together. I opted out of that buy as the specifications are not what I want/need at this point. You need to get verified to join the co-op but may be a way to save some coin from full retail prices.

There is also a feeler for the IPV3.
 

herb

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As I said "The issues I described only apply to people with atties that sit completely flush on the device to the point that they have to loosen the 510 screw to make contact. That screw will tighten some every time you screw an atty on, so those people have to remember to loosen the 510 screw about a quarter turn every time before they screw the atty down."

I also said "This is not to say that there couldn't be a few faulty boards out there"

I only screw down toppers lightly and never had any issues with jumping around resistances . Most of my toppers show a small gap but i know if i screw down any harder i will have problems since every instance that i screwed down tight on other devices resistances were all over the place
 

atroph

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Ok so I finally got my box in today. First impressions is that it is quite nice. I see what ya'll mean by pbusardo getting a "first run" product. I don't seem to have the issues that he was having.

I cracked it open and looked at the connections. I must say that the solder jobs are piss poor and I will most definately suck those blobs out of there and flow something a little better. I also believe that my assumption may be correct about the ground and wonky resistance readings. Looking at the top portion of the box there is screw that looks like it has a wire soldered to it. I hope there is a lug underneath that screw, but at first glance it appears that the wire is soldered to the screw itself.

I did have a slight gap issue with the back plate. It appears that it is bowed with the center of the panel poking out slightly. What I did to correct this is removed the panel and pressed firmly on the center of the panel (battery side down) while it was flat on a hard surface. This bowed it slightly inwards so the screw ends are bowed out. When you tighten the screws the panel sits flush.

I didn't get any spare screws with mine, and I don't believe I got a screwdriver either.

The 510 connector screw is not threaded the entire length of the screw. At the top there is a portion that has no threads?!? This is probably why some devices will not sit flush even though the screw is turned all the way in. Poor choice of screw IMO. However I was able to get my Plume Veil clone to sit flush with a few twists on both the mod and the PV. This this powers my 1.2 ohm build quite well at only 15-16W and hopefully I'll get good battery life out of this thing.

This is my first mod that is over 11W and I am VERY satisfied with my purchase. I got mine from an ebay seller for 89.00 + 8.99 for a VTC4. Total price was 97.99 for a ready to vape setup. It was worth the wait to pass on the B&M offering of just the device for $125.
 
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