Hmm. I set mine so it has a very small gap on my atty with the shortest 510. That way it works with all my attys. The screw has never moved after i did that.
P4U/Green Leaf IPV2 50W - Product Spec, Performance, Usage & Issues Thread
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Mine 510 screws back in as soon as i put an atty on it. I was thinking about putting a washer or something on the screw so it will only go in so far when screwed all the way in. Any idea if that would work?
I'm sure it will if you can find the right height. That said, you need to make sure:
1) the outta diameter of the washer does NOT touch the 510 threading when it is centered or you'll get a short.
2) the inner diameter is small enough, such that any lateral movement of the washer doesn't cause the external diameter of the washer to touch the 510 threading.
Yeah..that would be a great fix.. you could probably use an insulator, instead of a metal washer...but if you have electrical tape or can rig up something, it'd function all the same..
I was thinking blue locktite, but a washer is a way better idea. Props, nopoison.
Edit-and I'll steal kiwi's post as one of my own.
I was thinking blue locktite, but a washer is a way better idea. Props, nopoison.
Edit-and I'll steal kiwi's post as one of my own.
Just go to the hardware store and get a couple of the thickest o-rings that fit the 510 screw. If one alone isn't enough then stack two or three on.
Teflon washers are also an option since they are non conductive.
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Thanks for all the feedback guys. Definitely want something that's not heat sensitive so maybe teflon but probably just go with a super small metal washer. Maybe even a lock washer.
Trying out orings under each atomizer...so I don't have to fiddle.. maybe I can get it to work with different types and numbers of orings.
But I'm sticking with one on a plume veil and origen..let ya's know.
Edit-it works...I had orings that would fit around the 510 of an atty that I could spare.
But I'm sticking with one on a plume veil and origen..let ya's know.
Edit-it works...I had orings that would fit around the 510 of an atty that I could spare.
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Anyone getting the Ipv3 150 watt ? Started out as 100 watt but will be shipped with the software update installed making it 150 watts. Specs say even more updates to come! I have the ipv2 50 and really like it so I broke down and ordered the ipv3. Will ship from watts up on Sept 25th.
Yeah I'm happy with my iPV2 and have a preorder with vaportekusa for an iPV3. Some friends and I chipped in to utilize vaportek's bulk rate pricing which made them $95 each before shipping costs. 
The IPV3 sounds great and all, but if you want to take full advantage of the 100 or 150 watts you have to do a low resistance build. It maxes out at 7v output.
Say you prefer to use 1ohm coils, at 7v the max the device can provide is 49 watts, so just to get it over 50 watts you have to go subohm. That is a big thumbs down for me.
If you don't desire to subohm then the IPV2 is better, performance wise(with typical resistances anyways).
That being said, the IPV3 does down regulate all the way to 1v. That along with the dual 18650's means it has the ability to have some amazing battery life. It appears to be a buck only device, so should be more efficient as well.
Say you prefer to use 1ohm coils, at 7v the max the device can provide is 49 watts, so just to get it over 50 watts you have to go subohm. That is a big thumbs down for me.
If you don't desire to subohm then the IPV2 is better, performance wise(with typical resistances anyways).
That being said, the IPV3 does down regulate all the way to 1v. That along with the dual 18650's means it has the ability to have some amazing battery life. It appears to be a buck only device, so should be more efficient as well.
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I'm most interested in the dual battery life. I might play around above fifty watts but since I've been using the iPV2 my preferred all day vape is around 40-47w at about 1.3 ohms. Before going regulated most my builds were between .2-.5 ohms on mechs. A .5 ohm coil, which doesn't seem that low to me, hits 98w at seven volts.
The cloupor T8 seems to have a very high max voltage output but I'm not so sure I want to take my chances on an early version of it. I think the sigelei 100w along with the iPV3 will hold me over for a awhile
The cloupor T8 seems to have a very high max voltage output but I'm not so sure I want to take my chances on an early version of it. I think the sigelei 100w along with the iPV3 will hold me over for a awhile
Just wanted to chime in and get some opinions about an issue that my friend is having. He has an IPV 2 with a zenith and has a 0.6ohm dual coil build on it. Intermittently when hitting the fire button it will jump to 1.2 - 1.8 ohms with volts spiking concurrently and then going back down. Other times it will flash "check atomizer" and "check battery" I initially thought he was having a short so I instructed him to re-build it and change battery (both are VTC4) and he is having problems still. Since he has done all of that and all the battery connections and 510 connections are snug I am at a loss on this one. Anyone have any advice to keep him from having to fulfill his warranty already? Is it possible he has an internal short in his zenith not related to the coils? I will see him tomorrow and let him throw my IGO-w on there to see if it still happens but with both 'check atomizer' and 'check battery' going on I am lost. Thanks for any advice that I can pass along to him, I will see him tomorrow so if anything in particular needs to be checked I can handle that when I see him and report back in case anyone else is experiencing these issues.
So series batteries, if that's the case. Do you have an idea on how efficient battery capacity would be in this format, versus parallel batteries with a sx330 v3?
Edit-i guess that is a little bit of a complicated question...:/sorry
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Yes series. The specs of the chip for input voltage are 6.2v-8.5v. So the sx330 v3 chip can't be ran with parallel batteries.
As far as the efficiency goes, buck circuits(regulating down) are typically more efficient than boost circuits(regulating up). Since the IPV3 will be running batteries in series and has a max output voltage of 7 volts, it will be spending nearly all of it's useable battery life regulating battery voltage down to your setting.
I don't have one to test, but it should be more efficient than parallel batteries. How much more I don't know until they come out and I decide to buy one or not.
Neat..I'll be holding one before any consideration...unfortunately it's for battery life, not needing all that heat.:/ I influenced a shop owner to get them.. mainly so I can see it first.
Is the usb charging safe with series batteries? I've heard and read to rotate batteries that are in series, but I'm sure it's mainly for mechanical mod and flashlight safety precautions...
Open the cover and check the ground wire that is at the top soldered to a screw. You will have to remove the sticker to peek at the 510 connection. The only reason you will get an off reading with your build is limited to a few different things.
1. The coil build to the posts in the atty.
2. The 510 center pin of the atty
3. The 510 center pin of the atty to 510 center pin of the mod
4. The 510 center pin of the mod to the circuit board
5. The ground network which goes from the battery to the circuit board and is paralleled to a screw on the inside of the box.
The is the only reasons that I can think of that would cause bad ohm readings. Well other than a bad circuit board.
If you have a meter you should be able to probe all of those things that I mentioned.
1. Install the build and make sure it is snug. Measure the resistance from the center post of the build deck to the white wire inside the unit. There is a little exposed silver part of the white wire so you should be able to hit it. ou should read as close to 0 ohms as possible.
2. Measure from the ground lug of the battery box to the outside posts of the atty. Again it should read as close to 0 ohms as possible.
If you get higher than say 1 ohm then you know your problem is on the positive side or the ground side. If on the positive side you can luckily half-split it to narrow down the problem. Remove the atty and measure the ohms between the center pin to the white wire. If it is good then your problem is the atty or the atty to mod connection. If if is not then you have a problem with the 510 connector (center pin)
Repeat for the ground side if it reads higher than 1 ohm.
For reference I read 0.2 ohms from the battery negative terminal to the negative posts of the atty, and 0.2 ohms from the center post of the atty to the white wire.
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